battery heats up

[HKGhost]

use a multimeter and check the omh resistance. Put it to the lowest omh setting and see what you get. On a perfect setup with the lowest resistance, I got 0.04 omh. Anything higher than 0.06, you got a problem with either the motor or switch assembly. Test the motor the same way and see what you get. again, if it's around 0.04-0.05 omh, it's ok. anything higher, continue to track down where the resistance is. good luck

[Jackarutu]

Perhaps we better start at the beginning here. What brand Airsoft Replica do you have? Is the wiring original? Has any modification been made to the Replica?

As a general rule:

The positive lead from the battery goes to the lower solder pad on the trigger switch then through the switch housing to the selector switch lowest contact. Then it gets shorted via the selector switch to the upper contact on the selector switch back thru the switch housing to the upper trigger switch solder pad and then to the positive contact on the motor. Thus, if you disconnect the positive motor contact and the positive battery contact and then connect one of lead of your VOM on each end of these circuit paths you should read open unless the trigger is pulled and the selector is in either fire or auto position.

If the selector is in fire or auto and the trigger is not engaged and the VOM shows continuity then you have something weird going on and need to trace it down as to where the switch is getting shorted around. The fact you gave about when you pull the trigger the motor turns faster makes is sound as if you have a "High Resistance short" across your trigger switch and when you pull the trigger then it has full continuity and the full voltage is applied to the circuit.

This could be caused somewhere along the two red wires (battery Positive and Motor Positive) going to the trigger switch getting their insulation damaged and the two wires shorting out but in a high resistance connection which limits the current through the circuit: such as when they get pinched when the gearbox closes on them.

Cheers

[Z06Jake]

Good info. Thanks Jack. Its a complete custom build from the gearbox out.

[Jackarutu]

In that is the case then you will have to supply the forum with more details on what you did for the wiring. Did you use a simple pre- built wire harness? Or did you fabricate your own? Is it wired for a MOSFET?

[Z06Jake]

im using silver plated copper wire with a ptfe jacket and deans connectors. I removed the old wires and used an extra v2 wiring harness I had laying around. Im thinking I will try a completely new harness and go from there. It is not set up for a mosfet. Standard wiring config. This build was put together with a multitude of parts I had from other stuff. I had an 8mm Matrix gb with an extra set of KWA gears. Then a Madbull ulimate hopup and Madbull metal body and a Prommy tbb. The front section was from a KWA sr10. I had zero issues before the metal body, so maybe the gb is too big or something and is contacting the metal body and shorting. IDK.

[Reckless]

sounds like you've got a pinched power wire ... either through the metal body to the mechbox, or in/around the mechbox itself.

but tracing elec issues is a pain without being able to see it. quick check would be to do an easy test with a multi meter.. unplug battery .. at the plug to the gun set the multimeter @ lowest ohm setting .. test leads to red and black... if the meter swings you've definately got a short/pinch/ground out.. what ever you wanna call it.. if the meter doesn't swing hit your trigger a couple times just to make sure it's all connected properly...

this isn't a definative test, but it's a quick one ... oh and remember to never do this test with power hooked up.. you'll fry that part of your multimeter