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Old January 7th, 2009, 23:38   #1
jesster202
 
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new to lipo lol

ok so i just bought cbsstves kit and im just moving into the world of lipos because of the size and it will allow me to move onto read wiring later on with out hassel. i have done some reserch but im not a 100 precent on what i found is correct id like to ask and make shure form some vets of lipo battery uses so i dont set fires .ect

1)now here's my questions their cells have 11.1 volt lipo and are at 1200mha im not trigger happy nor do i intend to do full auto i like single and small very small bursts if anything at all how many rounds do you think i can get from one pack like 2 k?

2)how long can i expect the charger to take to charge a 1200 mha battery.

3)the charger is a E-Sky Lipo Battery Charger is this decent enought to not blow up my house and start fires lol i did some googling and found out it is used a lot in rc comunity but i know nothing about rc stuff so anybody who knows anything about this or knows about this brand any info or advice is helpfull.

4)what do i need to know please fill me with some helpfull tips thanks in advance.
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Last edited by jesster202; January 7th, 2009 at 23:50..
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Old January 7th, 2009, 23:53   #2
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I have use lipos for the past 8 months or so and I will never go back to other batteries.
I'll try my best to answer your questions based on my experiences.

1.) You can probably get 2000 rounds from a pack. With a 2300mah I charge it once every few games and shoot about 1500 rounds a game. Best off to get a second back as a spare.

2.)It shouldn't take longer than 1/2 an hour. If you have a smart charger it should automatically shut off when done charging. Never leave these batteries unattended. I always charge them at my desk and feel them every 5 minutes to see if they are getting hot. Generally packs that are made now are quite reliable. It will take a bit before the 'omg lipos are ginna burn down my house' myth is dispelled.

3.) No Idea

4.) 11.1v are a lot harder on your trigger contacts because of the higher voltage. If your only using semi auto or short bursts your internals should be fine. Others may say otherwise but chances are they have never used a lipo or just had bad luck. If you want to be on the safe side go for a 2 cell, 7.4v lipo. Although small they really give snappy trigger response.
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Old January 7th, 2009, 23:56   #3
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ditto! im just scratching the surface of this, and there are alot of people throwing information around that is not neccissarily correct. id like accurate info from someone who knows and deals with em. if you dont physically run a lipo, you have no business posting.

im curious for my ptw; what size; mah, V and how many cells to get depending on the cylinder gold or red
what charger is a good buy, NOT THE BEST, but a reasonably good buy, im not interested in a $200 charger.
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Old January 8th, 2009, 00:09   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gvanzeggelaar View Post
I have use lipos for the past 8 months or so and I will never go back to other batteries.
I'll try my best to answer your questions based on my experiences.

1.) You can probably get 2000 rounds from a pack. With a 2300mah I charge it once every few games and shoot about 1500 rounds a game. Best off to get a second back as a spare.

2.)It shouldn't take longer than 1/2 an hour. If you have a smart charger it should automatically shut off when done charging. Never leave these batteries unattended. I always charge them at my desk and feel them every 5 minutes to see if they are getting hot. Generally packs that are made now are quite reliable. It will take a bit before the 'omg lipos are ginna burn down my house' myth is dispelled.

3.) No Idea

4.) 11.1v are a lot harder on your trigger contacts because of the higher voltage. If your only using semi auto or short bursts your internals should be fine. Others may say otherwise but chances are they have never used a lipo or just had bad luck. If you want to be on the safe side go for a 2 cell, 7.4v lipo. Although small they really give snappy trigger response.
All you have to do is watch it.

There is a setting for the 11.1v so you don't have to worry about improper charging but as he said and says it quite well just keep it near you when charging

Then you won't run into any problems.
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Old January 8th, 2009, 00:14   #5
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the charger it comes with is this one and it did come with to batterys som im a happy to say the least lol! heres the charger im using it says it will shut off lol so i hope so http://www.nitrorcx.com/eeclipolilib.html
and thanks for the info i was only worried about using them with out knowing nothing because i have been told so far they shouldnt get hot at all not even luke warm when charger (please correct me if im wrong here) im not going to abuse them to try to make them explode i just dont want them to break its an investment lol thanks hope more users have some imput
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Old January 8th, 2009, 00:15   #6
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Okay here is my setup.

About 20 buck on ebay. Will charge any type of battery. Includes a built in balancer.

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/20...rger_Red_.html

These are great batteries for the price. They last and give great trigger response. They are only 7.4v so they are good for those who think 11.1v lipos = broken gun

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=7312

I use one of these to test my batteries voltage. If battery goes below 3v per cell they won't charge.

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...y_Monitor_2-6S

I also have some 11.1v Mystery brand batteries off of ebay. I have had good luck with them also.

I really recommend hobbycity.com for all your batteries and supplies.
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Old January 8th, 2009, 00:21   #7
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This is actually the Model number is the GS 103A not the EC

http://www.airsoftpost.com/firefox-1...r-p-29681.html
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Old January 8th, 2009, 00:21   #8
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ok so help me understand if the batery goes below 3v it wont charge i was under the impression if it was dead like didnt pull the spring back it needed charging? i get that its basicly a small volt meeter but to i need to hook that up while im using the gun to inshure it dosnt drop down past 3 volts
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Old January 8th, 2009, 00:28   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesster202 View Post
ok so help me understand if the batery goes below 3v it wont charge i was under the impression if it was dead like didnt pull the spring back it needed charging
In the case of NIMH and NICD batteries you are correct. If I doesn't cycle your gun its dead. This is different for lipos.

Each sell in a lipo battery is 3.7v. Therefore you have 3.7v, 7.4v, 11.1v.......batteries. When the cells in a battery back fall below 3v I think a chemical reaction occurs damaging the battery. Whatever the case, don't let the cells fall below 3v. So a 7.4v should never fall below 6v and an 11.1v should never fall below 9v. The tester I posted earlier gives the voltage of each cell and the total voltage.

You do not have to keep the voltmeter plugged in. Just check it periodically throughout the day. Its also a good idea to feel the battery pack to make sure its not getting warm. Because lipos generally last so long I have never had any cells fall below the 3v mark. Just make sure you keep the batteries topped up between games and your good to go.

Last edited by gvanzeggelaar; January 8th, 2009 at 00:30..
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Old January 8th, 2009, 00:36   #10
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so theys fall into the catagory like nimh does were you can just charge them when ever?
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Old January 8th, 2009, 00:38   #11
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ya they have no 'memory loss' like the older nicd batteries. So you don't need a discharger or anything.
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Old January 8th, 2009, 01:08   #12
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I tried a Li-Po once, fully charged, somehow short-circuted the Triggermaster and the trigger switch, and jammed up the mechbox without (firest fine with a nicad) and broke the pinion gear on my Systema Turbo motor to many little bits. gona try again, sometime.
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Old January 8th, 2009, 01:16   #13
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Here to make it short. If you are using Li-Po

-Have a charger with Balancer
-If your Rate of fire drops. Stop pulling the trigger and slap a freshly charged battery.
-When charging put it in a Pyrex Plate just a pre-caution.

Just follow this simple instruction and your Li-Po should be fine.

On my PTW I use a modified Red tube to shoot like a gold tube. On my Firefox Li-Po 1200mah 6-8mags then ROF drops and the 1500mah 8-10mags then ROF Drops.
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Old January 8th, 2009, 01:17   #14
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Here is my setup:

2x 7.4v 1600mah 20C batteries, both in the stock, one connected, the other as backup. $11 each.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...0mAh_2S1P_20C_

Elite 5iBC Balancer/Charger $80
http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/?si...chrg&scat=LIPO

The charger is automatic with a digital display, and can also charge NIMH, NICAD, and LITH ION. It alaso balances. Great charger/balancer.
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Old January 8th, 2009, 01:20   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gvanzeggelaar View Post
In the case of NIMH and NICD batteries you are correct. If I doesn't cycle your gun its dead. This is different for lipos.

Each sell in a lipo battery is 3.7v. Therefore you have 3.7v, 7.4v, 11.1v.......batteries. When the cells in a battery back fall below 3v I think a chemical reaction occurs damaging the battery. Whatever the case, don't let the cells fall below 3v. So a 7.4v should never fall below 6v and an 11.1v should never fall below 9v. The tester I posted earlier gives the voltage of each cell and the total voltage.

You do not have to keep the voltmeter plugged in. Just check it periodically throughout the day. Its also a good idea to feel the battery pack to make sure its not getting warm. Because lipos generally last so long I have never had any cells fall below the 3v mark. Just make sure you keep the batteries topped up between games and your good to go.
Also, to add to this:

Lipo cells have a full charge of 4.25V (and damage occurs if you go above this), so a 7.4v battery fully charged will read as 8.5v.
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