removing flash hider on kwa g36c

[psydeath]

I recently bought a kwa g36 from mopic and it has the orange paint on the flash hider. it doesnt twist off so im not sure if its glued on or not, it twists a little bit but wont come off. there is a little hole on the bottom of it but none of my allen wrenches fit in there, so im not sure if there is a screw. i tried heating it up for about 2 minutes using a heat gun but it still wont come off and im not sure which way to turn it.

anyways, should i just spraypaint over it without removing it? just wondering if paint would get in the barrel. i scratched it up pretty bad. if anyone else has this same gun let me know if you managed to remove it

[Skladfin]

im pretty sure there's a set screw inside that "hole". Don't force it, you will scratch your threading to death if you do.

Try 1mm allen wrench, the smallest you could go, that's what is usually used on flashhiders of AEGs.

[psydeath]

well i got the screw out and turned it a bit but its stuck now and it wont turn either way

[Skladfin]

that's somewhat wierd, but don't force it out, that's the fastest shortcut to ruining your threading, then you'd have to live without a flashhider.

try gently turning it, and if you feel resistance, screw it back on and try again. If it just would NEVER come out, then try to put some force, it's your last resort.

[SHÖCK]

No.

Guns from Mopic are from the U.S. Whatever his source is, puts copious amounts of superglue and epoxy (might be JB Weld) on the barrel thread to prevent flash hider removal (perhaps this is to get through U.S. customs.). The hex key was filled with epoxy on mine which made it even worse. I had to drill it out.

If the heatgun doesn't work, you will have to do what I did on my G36 from Mopic and saw the flash hider in half and then insert a wood chisel into the prongs and pry it apart.

[G.I. Joel]

Get a set of channel locks and use a rag wrapped around the flash hider to protect it from scratches. Use an extremely good penetrating oil and work the flash suppressor until its off. If you for whatever reason get pisssed and force it off, just go to Canadina tire, also know as disney land, crappy tire, and get JB weld metal expoxy ans stick 'er right back on.

[SHÖCK]

Originally Posted by 22RE_yota

Get a set of channel locks and use a rag wrapped around the flash hider to protect it from scratches. Use an extremely good penetrating oil and work the flash suppressor until its off. If you for whatever reason get pisssed and force it off, just go to Canadina tire, also know as disney land, crappy tire, and get JB weld metal expoxy ans stick 'er right back on.

The oil won't get through the epoxy (might very well have been JB Weld given the strength of it) and superglue (visible cyanoacrylate residue). Too much torque twisting it will crack the plastic that is holding the inner barrel. Trust me, I broke a SCREWDRIVER placed between the prongs trying to get the flashider off.

[psydeath]

I think il just forget about trying to remove this thing. This gun is too hot to use in games anyways i think, so il have to get another gun sometime.

[GundamGPO3]

If it twists a little, you are almost there. If it is anything like a TM G36C, the threads should be counter clockwise, which means righty-loosy, lefty-tighty. I am fairly certain your threads are 14mm ccw as well, given the nature of assault rifles and people generally like to fit suppressors on their guns a lot of the time. Your best bet is to really twist and force it off....if you infact ruin the threads, you could always sand/grind them down just to fit the flash hider back on and glue it after it is done being painted or w/e.

[psydeath]

Hey i finally got it off, it was counter clockwise. As for painting now all i have to do is figure out how to paint it, never painted anything before.

[Crunchmeister]

Clean it well with alcohol and spray it with some flat black Krylon camo paint. Let dry, and paint again. Repeat for a third coat, then install onto your gun.

[GundamGPO3]

SCORE! knew they were ccw hehe, anyways good job man. as for painting, sprays are the best, and I would add to Crunchmeister's advise by saying sand it 1st! make sure you get all the orange and any undercoats/finishes off of the metal. it should be shiny silver when you are done. This will ensure that the paint will stick perfectly with no flaws! Good luck.

[Crunchmeister]

Agreed on the sanding. I'm not sure I would sand it down right to the bare metal though, as that could be a lot of work. Simply roughing up the existing finish will make paint adhere quite well. But sanding to metal is definitely an option if you feel like doing the work.

[GundamGPO3]

Yes I agree. The only reason I recommend going right down to the metal is for 1 reason. It's a simple law of ALL firearms...Guns are long, and muzzles ALWAYS hit something.....so my reasoning for going down to the metal is so that when it does get scratched and nicked...trust me it will....this way it won't have ugly orange underneath. It will be nice shiny metal

[Crunchmeister]

Touché and point taken. It looks better and more realistic to have paint missing and bare metal showing than to have blaze orange showing below the missing black paint. Nothing a quick spray of paint couldn't fix, but I do see your point.