Trigger activated electrical connectors....

Buds and Suds · October 17th, 2007, 18:08

I had an arc between my connectors....the ones that are joined by the depression of the trigger, dont know what they are called. There is some scorching on the copper...enough that it caused some damage. The damaged area wont pass current anymore. Anyways, Im looking for a way to "fix" the copper,if possible, so that I can get a solid connection again. I looked all over for replacement parts but so far any place I know of in canada doesnt carry it. Nor the Official Classic Army website. Is there some kind of thin material I could perhaps wrap around the connector to make it like new again? Till I find a place to order a new part im kinda stuck trying to fix it myself.

CA M15A4 SPC Ver 2 gearbox

Thanks.

Trader rating · October 17th, 2007, 18:43

clean it and add a coat of solder?

Buds and Suds · October 17th, 2007, 18:46

I acctually tried this, it caused another arc.

mcguyver · October 17th, 2007, 19:26

You can buy low resistance (such as they are) switches from Systema. You'll likely have to order it from an Asian retailer.

Your heavy spring caused this, so you'll need a switch a little more heavy-duty than a stock switch. Make sure you don't over-grease the mechbox (especially tappet guides) to ensure that the switch conacts stay dry. Grease on the contacts accelerates the problem greatly.

Buds and Suds · October 17th, 2007, 20:47

Well, solder coat number two did it. A 1/4 to 1/2 drop sized coating, thicker than I tried the first time worked. I can feel the solder coat in the trigger when I fire. I can achieve full auto on semi by only 1/2 pulling the trigger, which is kinda cool, like the Aug but backwards. solder is too thick I think so im going to try and shave it down to the sweet spot where I get semi back through the whole trigger pull.

mcguyver · October 17th, 2007, 21:41

Just remember, solder melts at less than half the temperature to rquired to melt copper, if indeed your contacts were pure copper. Solder is a very temporary solution and won't last. It isn't legal for use (ie CEC) as a switch contact material nor for use in any current-carrying conductor joints, due to it's poor ability to withstand heating.

CDN_Stalker · October 17th, 2007, 22:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcguyver

Just remember, solder melts at less than half the temperature to rquired to melt copper, if indeed your contacts were pure copper. Solder is a very temporary solution and won't last. It isn't legal for use (ie CEC) as a switch contact material nor for use in any current-carrying conductor joints, due to it's poor ability to withstand heating.

+1, found this out with an arcing problem in the contacts of a G&G M14. Even though I built the 2mm by 4mm gab up with desoldering braid soldered onto the contact, I suspect it won't last a long time. Then again, the first time I found the crack due to the owner using semi all the time and an over 400fps spring, I soldered the contact. When the new owner got the gun a few months later, all traces of solder were gone. Musta not cleaned it well enough. Which is surprising.

Buds and Suds · October 17th, 2007, 23:53

Definately a temp fix till I can get the parts ordered.... felt bad putting it back together with just solder but I cant stand my ol girl all in pieces not working.
Luckily I have technical intrest and the drive to be self sufficiant. Sick part is, ive spent more time in my rifle than firing it. Its interesting, frusterating, yet rewarding when you get it working. Starting to wonder if its more of a tinkering hobby than a sport. Always trying to make the perfect creation....

freewheelin4eva · October 18th, 2007, 04:15

buy some new contacts, and then get a mosfet and upgrade. then you will not have to worry at all.

Buds and Suds · October 18th, 2007, 10:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by freewheelin4eva

buy some new contacts, and then get a mosfet and upgrade. then you will not have to worry at all.

Got a link for somthing like that? Ive never heard of this.

CDN_Stalker · October 18th, 2007, 11:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buds and Suds

Got a link for somthing like that? Ive never heard of this.

Just have to toss MOSFET into the search engine here to get a few threads, or you can get the info from Airsoft Mechanics.

ILLusion · October 18th, 2007, 11:24

You can also reduce the current draw of your entire system by adding torque somewhere in there (I'd recommend the gears before the motor.)

Buds and Suds · October 18th, 2007, 19:34

K, now where would be the best place to pick up a mosfet? and what is a decent price on one of these?

Naglfar · October 18th, 2007, 20:09

Now I don't know much about this application of MOSFETs, however, my electrical background would seriously advise you to research this particular use before doing anything.

Airsoft guns draw A LOT of current, and this project WILL backfire unless you know what you are doing. Don't think this is a quick fix.

No, I'm not bashing the MOSFET trigger, I plan to build one myself because I have the electrical knowledge to know what I am doing, but I still need to learn more about how people have used them in airsoft before I even think of starting the project.

Spa · October 18th, 2007, 20:15

MOSFET's imho should be used as a last resort. but like they said if you really want one, you can search up info on how to install them

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October 17th, 2007, 18:08	#1
Buds and Suds Trader rating Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: edmonton	Trigger activated electrical connectors.... I had an arc between my connectors....the ones that are joined by the depression of the trigger, dont know what they are called. There is some scorching on the copper...enough that it caused some damage. The damaged area wont pass current anymore. Anyways, Im looking for a way to "fix" the copper,if possible, so that I can get a solid connection again. I looked all over for replacement parts but so far any place I know of in canada doesnt carry it. Nor the Official Classic Army website. Is there some kind of thin material I could perhaps wrap around the connector to make it like new again? Till I find a place to order a new part im kinda stuck trying to fix it myself. CA M15A4 SPC Ver 2 gearbox Thanks.

October 17th, 2007, 19:26	#4
mcguyver Trader rating Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Northern Alberta	You can buy low resistance (such as they are) switches from Systema. You'll likely have to order it from an Asian retailer. Your heavy spring caused this, so you'll need a switch a little more heavy-duty than a stock switch. Make sure you don't over-grease the mechbox (especially tappet guides) to ensure that the switch conacts stay dry. Grease on the contacts accelerates the problem greatly. __________________ Age verifier Northern Alberta Democracy is two wolves and a sheep discussing what's for dinner. Freedom is the wolves limping away while the sheep reloads. Never confuse freedom with democracy.

October 17th, 2007, 20:47	#5
Buds and Suds Trader rating Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: edmonton	Well, solder coat number two did it. A 1/4 to 1/2 drop sized coating, thicker than I tried the first time worked. I can feel the solder coat in the trigger when I fire. I can achieve full auto on semi by only 1/2 pulling the trigger, which is kinda cool, like the Aug but backwards. solder is too thick I think so im going to try and shave it down to the sweet spot where I get semi back through the whole trigger pull. Last edited by Buds and Suds; October 17th, 2007 at 20:50..

October 17th, 2007, 18:43	#2
pawscal Guest Trader rating	clean it and add a coat of solder?

October 17th, 2007, 18:46	#3
Buds and Suds Trader rating Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: edmonton	I acctually tried this, it caused another arc.

October 17th, 2007, 21:41	#6
mcguyver Trader rating Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Northern Alberta	Just remember, solder melts at less than half the temperature to rquired to melt copper, if indeed your contacts were pure copper. Solder is a very temporary solution and won't last. It isn't legal for use (ie CEC) as a switch contact material nor for use in any current-carrying conductor joints, due to it's poor ability to withstand heating. __________________ Age verifier Northern Alberta Democracy is two wolves and a sheep discussing what's for dinner. Freedom is the wolves limping away while the sheep reloads. Never confuse freedom with democracy.

October 17th, 2007, 23:53	#8
Buds and Suds Trader rating Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: edmonton	Definately a temp fix till I can get the parts ordered.... felt bad putting it back together with just solder but I cant stand my ol girl all in pieces not working. Luckily I have technical intrest and the drive to be self sufficiant. Sick part is, ive spent more time in my rifle than firing it. Its interesting, frusterating, yet rewarding when you get it working. Starting to wonder if its more of a tinkering hobby than a sport. Always trying to make the perfect creation....

October 18th, 2007, 04:15	#9
freewheelin4eva Trader rating Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Cow town	buy some new contacts, and then get a mosfet and upgrade. then you will not have to worry at all.

October 18th, 2007, 11:24	#12
ILLusion GBB Whisperer Trader rating Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Toronto	You can also reduce the current draw of your entire system by adding torque somewhere in there (I'd recommend the gears before the motor.) __________________ *Advanced Airsoft Armaments and Enhancements* Quick to the gun, sure of your grip. Quick to the threat, sure of your shot. Diligentia, Vis, Celeritas Accuracy, Power, Speed

October 18th, 2007, 19:34	#13
Buds and Suds Trader rating Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: edmonton	K, now where would be the best place to pick up a mosfet? and what is a decent price on one of these?

October 18th, 2007, 20:09	#14
Naglfar Trader rating Join Date: May 2007 Location: Ottawa	Now I don't know much about this application of MOSFETs, however, my electrical background would seriously advise you to research this particular use before doing anything. Airsoft guns draw A LOT of current, and this project WILL backfire unless you know what you are doing. Don't think this is a quick fix. No, I'm not bashing the MOSFET trigger, I plan to build one myself because I have the electrical knowledge to know what I am doing, but I still need to learn more about how people have used them in airsoft before I even think of starting the project.

October 18th, 2007, 20:15	#15
Spa Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba	MOSFET's imho should be used as a last resort. but like they said if you really want one, you can search up info on how to install them

Trigger activated electrical connectors....

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