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TM M4A1: Switching Springs

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Old December 30th, 2006, 17:02   #1
Kingpin665
 
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TM M4A1: Switching Springs

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone had come accross something like this http://www.wgcshop.com/g18c-slide-install.html exept for taking apart a TM M4 to replace the spring? I havn't managed to find anything yet unfortunitely, I'll keep looking and check back later.

*Edit* I should mention that that URL was PMed to me and I havn't really found it on the WGC myself, so I'm not sure if they even have one for the M4. When I look all I find are parts lists for differant guns... conviently the M4 one is missing.
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Old December 30th, 2006, 19:30   #2
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If it's your first time opening up your gun, I would take it to a Gun Doctor, and ask if you can watch on the side. Otherwise, it's going to get messy real quick.
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Old December 30th, 2006, 19:46   #3
Nova316
 
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check on www.mechbox.com
Theres a M733 take down which should help u, but be careful because if u have a plastic reciever its easy to snap the tabs
The M733 takedown will show u how to get the gearbox out then u gotta find the Version 2 gearbox take down and that'll show u how to take apart the gearbox and replace the spring.
Its a long process, and it takes A LOT OF patients espectally if its your first time, I just opened my TM M4A1 and by far the hardest thing was putting the gearbox back together... stupid anti reversal latch
Or just find a local gun doctor thats probably your best bet

http://www.mechbox.com/site/m733-disassembly-video.html
http://www.mechbox.com/site/version-...ade-video.html
http://www.mechbox.com/site/m733-resassembly-video.html

Those videos in that order should help u

Last edited by Nova316; December 30th, 2006 at 19:49..
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Old December 30th, 2006, 20:24   #4
medhatboy
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Agreed, when we switched out the spring in my CA M15 it took two of us to hold things in place while putting the outer shell back together. If your planning the switch anything else, might as well do it then too, while we had mine open we also took out the stock piston and replaced it with an all aluminum one, and wired it to the back for a full stock, the whole process took the better part of 3 hours.
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Old January 1st, 2007, 15:57   #5
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Thank you very much guys your help made it a sinch. I honestly don't know why everyone makes a big deal out of it, just take your time and lable your parts for a quick referance later... good to go. I'll have to charge a battery today to see if it fires right or if I actually did fuck up and didn't realise :S. Crossing my fingers, and thanks again.... gotta love this comunity.

*edit* Just plugged in a battery I borrowed off of my brother, blew the fuse right quick. Anything I should check to fix that issue so it doesn't happen again when I get a new fuse?
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Old January 1st, 2007, 16:35   #6
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You were told to have this done by someone with experience. You chose not to follow that advice.
Now you are blowing fuses and there are several possible reasons for that; spring is too strong, mechbox is improperly assembled, god hates you.

So take the original advice and have it looked at by someone experienced. Then watch what they do.
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Old January 1st, 2007, 16:45   #7
ILLusion
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingpin665 View Post
*edit* Just plugged in a battery I borrowed off of my brother, blew the fuse right quick. Anything I should check to fix that issue so it doesn't happen again when I get a new fuse?
shimming
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Old January 2nd, 2007, 17:43   #8
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Greylocks I do whole heartedly agree with you that I didn't listen to that advice, but I felt that the instructional videos were pretty well layed out and would do as a just subsitute. Not to mention the closest Gun Dr. is in Toronto and thats a hefty trip, if I was going to have to see one I might as well try it myself slowly, carefuly, and reletively caculated, if that fails then take it to him and encour that cost.

The spring isn't to stong, I had an upgrade kit done by Jonny Do but substited the spring that came with it fearing it was too strong for feild limits to one that I felt was more suitable judging by Illusion's spring guide (rough guide I know). But I wanted to see what the stronger spring that was intended for the upgrade would be like knowing more accurately now what the increase in power might put me to FPS wise, still being under the local limit.

I will take a look at the shimming & double check the placement of everything, and do a quick prayre to assure that god doesn't hate me for at least an hour (rolls eyes, lol)

Thanks for the advice again guys, greatly appreciated.
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Old January 2nd, 2007, 18:05   #9
medhatboy
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The last time that happened to me, my piston was not quit on the rails properly and bound up the gears, once my piston was back on the right way it worked fine.
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Old January 2nd, 2007, 20:42   #10
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I double and tripple checked the placement of everything, the timing of the gears was off last time but I don't think that would blow a fuse. The Shimmings I didn't really touch (by that I mean I didn't add or remove anything that wasn't already in place from Johnny Do and it worked great when I got it back from him), or really any of the parts other then the spring and piston (and spring guide of course) but everything moved smothly and was well greased before I put the spring in and did my best not to disturb any of it. Put it back together and I guess I'll just have to test it again when I get a new fuse... maybe it was just a fluke *shrugs*

*Edit* My brother told me he could probably find the fuse I needed at work, what he gave me was apparently intended to be used for a bus but had the same "15A" engraved into it (along with some things before the 15 if it matters?). I put it in and it seemed to work fine, the gun itself sounds like its got a higher pitch squeel to it from what it had before the spring I put in, I'm assuming thats normal due to the extra power it takes to compess the spring? The fuse he gave me also doesn't have transparent glass but this wierd opaque stuff, and its about a MM longer, anyone see a problem in using it?
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Last edited by Kingpin665; January 3rd, 2007 at 09:23..
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