We 1911 slide completely locks up and is very hard to move.

[XOIIO]

Alright well, shortly after talking about how my we was working great, it figures that I started having issues, sigh.

Note that this gun is brand new, and the only use it had before I've fired less than 300-400 rounds or so was it being tested and an extended barrel/suppressor being added by Division XP

Sometimes when firing, the slide locks up just before it meets the notch for taking out the slide, in this position, with the gas nozzle stuck forward. If I push the gas nozzleback gently it snaps back into place fairly easily.




When this happens, the slide requires a lot of effort to move forward or back, I'm going forward as it's on the return that it locks up and I figure that direction is the least likely to damage something.

It was doing it as much as every single time, I took it apart a couple times to see if I could notice any issues, or see if something needed some lube, and it improved for a bit but then started to act up again.

Now, I can slowly move the slide by hand and when it reaches this notch, if I use a pair of tweezers or something to press the hammer down more, it slams forward.

Here are pictures of the hammer position when it's caught in this situation.




When I reach this spot sliding the slide by hand I also notice that it gets a little stiff, and has been getting more noticeable when I pull the slide back too, though it's a bit off and on.

If I hold it down with the tweezers, this is gone and the slide moves extremely smoothly, this little rough spot is nonexistent.

I've read that the hammer can be catching on part of the blowback unit, however, when the slide catches on a shot, moving the hammer down more does absolutely nothing, the slide is just stuck solid, and I'm not entirely sure what it's catching on.

I've taken the grip off to observe the sears spring while moving the hammer as I heard that can cause issues, but when move the hammer down more the spring doesn't really do anything, and if I position the slide so that it's caught by hand, and gently poked at the hammer spring arm, it does not make it release.

I'm at my wits end here, I've sent a bunch of messages to Division XP over facebook during the troubleshooting process as well as these pictures but they aren't going to respond until tomorrow, I'm hoping to get some feedback from you guys.

I also saw a video whee the o-ring in the blow back unit cracks/gets a chip in it and the guy flips it to fix the nozzle issue, but this gun is brand new, has relatively few shots for it (less than 300-400), only using green gas, and keeping it will lubricated with silicone oil. (made sure to get pure stuff, and I've wiped and cleaned the rail areas maybe 5 or 6 times over the course of the past couple days using this gun to keep the paint that's wearing off at this point from causing issues).

I did also notice that the outer barrel and hop up unit is difficult to pull out of the front of the gun, needing a moderate amount of force, and I did see a line but then I realized that this really can't be causing that issue, and wiggling the outer barrel when jammed does nothing.

I'm hoping maybe someone who has experienced this can chime in, and I'll update when Division XP gets back to me, I really hope I don't have to send this back to them, especially since I am pretty sure I won't be able to afford shipping.

edit: when it jams the gas does not all vent, and the magazine release works perfectly fine, in case that's important at all.

[XOIIO]

I've also noticed a small indent on the frame where the hammer comes into contact, I'm not sure if that little notch is normal or not, I never looked at that spot when it was new and I examined it for the first time.




Also, since this was new I did notice occasionally when I manually slid the slide back (I did have the odd, rare jam too but it wasn't this hard), the nozzle was stuck forward like that so I added some lube to the underside so it would get on the o-ring, and I figured maybe a stronger nozzle return spring would help? Not sure, it would take quite a while to get one anyways and I'd have to find a site that doesn't charge a huge amount for shipping, if it would even be worth it. Again waiting to hear back from the guys I bought it from.

[XOIIO]

I also had a look and the hammer physically touches the plastic of the blowback unit and the metal part behind it when the slide goes forward though that's not where it jams. Not sure if that's an issue.

[Drake]

1. What was modified? Does it work properly with the stock parts?

2. Is it getting stuck when the slide moves backwards or only forward?

3. The indent is "normal" but [I don't know if its the picture?] your frame looks severely beaten where the hammer comes into contact. Is your hammer spring upgraded?

4. When the hammer is cocked, does it have a bit of slack? ie. if you push down on it (down towards the beavertail) does it have leeway to move a bit, or is it maxed out?

[XOIIO]

Originally Posted by Drake

1. What was modified? Does it work properly with the stock parts?

2. Is it getting stuck when the slide moves backwards or only forward?

3. The indent is "normal" but [I don't know if its the picture?] your frame looks severely beaten where the hammer comes into contact. Is your hammer spring upgraded?

4. When the hammer is cocked, does it have a bit of slack? ie. if you push down on it (down towards the beavertail) does it have leeway to move a bit, or is it maxed out?

This should be completely stock except for the extended barrel that was put in so that it shoots in the legal fps limit, I'll see if they upgraded any other parts but I doubt it.

There is a little bit of slack when the hammer is cocked back, I can push it a little further towards the beavertail, this is what I meant when I said that when I manually move the slide till it catches, pushing the hammer down with tweezers lets it go forward.

I wasn't sure if where the hammer contacts the frame is normally notched in a bit or if it is abnormal, and I suppose since it looks "severely beaten", that means it's not normally like that.

edit: does WE ever do re-manufactured guns? Maybe that's why the frame where the hammer comes into contact is like that?

[Drake]

Just the inner barrel was changed? The outer barrel and chamber are stock?

also:


not sure if thats an illusion caused by the shadow or if there's a really deep gap there?


here's a pic of mine for comparison (the nozzle on the BBU is pulled all the way forward):

[XOIIO]

Here's a better few pictures, I have noticed that when the slide is back it sits a little higher up on the rear half than it does when the slide is forward, and it does seem that when I do it slowly enough for the slide to catch the hammer is catching in that gap there, but as I mentioned when it locks up from a shot I can push the hammer down more and the slide is still jammed tight.

The blowback unit isn't sliding all the way back, that's why the gap looks bigger, if I push it back it looks more like yours (in the last picture).






^ these were all from manually cocking it, it might be different when I actually shoot it, I could run outside and fire off a single bb so it locks back and see.

I'm also wondering, just how bad is that damage to the frame near the hammer? Will that cut down the life of the gun? Assuming it's supposed to be straight across from where it starts on the slide, then yeah it is pretty bad and I'm not sure why yet, how long would it normally take it to get like that?

[XOIIO]

Oh yeah outer barrel is totally stock as far as I know, looks like it, this is how long the inner barrel is.

[Drake]

No, it isn't straight across, and there is contact. Closeup pics sometimes make things look worse, its hard to tell. Looking at mine (visually) I can see a bit of contact wear but nothing else (not mangling, no filings). If that's all you have you're fine.

[Drake]

Ok.. you opted for a really long inner barrel heh

But I dont think that should be causing that. Maybe try removing the BBU and making sure everything is assembled properly? (was it even removed?)

[XOIIO]

It was the only option from this seller actually, and best price in Canada since they had free shipping.

I do want to get another hopup and outer barrel assembly, with a stainless outer barrel so I can easily swap between the longer one and a suppressor and a shorter one and compensator, it might be below the legal fps limits then however, but still would be nice, plus then it would fit in my existing case.

I haven't removed the bbu or anything like that, furthest I've dug into this was removing the hop up and inner barrel from the outer to examine it and see what it would take to change the barrels out, then I saw that they were taped together so just put it back together again, didn't realize at the time it's just teflon tape lol.

Still, it's a lot more complicated that just swapping the inner and outer assembly so I'll go that route at some point. Inner barrel and suppressor were a sort of bonus which pushed me to go with this seller since I wanted a suppressor anyhow.

[XOIIO]

Here are further back and cropped pictures of the bit where the hammer contacts.

[XOIIO]

Alright well I need to try and sleep soon, if I even can with all this going on to my two/three day old gun.

Here's the position the slide is jammed in when it did it from firing, and also a picture of me moving the hammer quite a ways towards the beavertail, and nothing changes, it's still ridiculously right.

The metal part behind the blow back unit does rub on the hammer and I see posts about people saying they file it down, but I'd have to file it down a decent amount, maybe a whole millimeter or even a tad more for it to not hit the hammer at all. I try and take a video of how much the hammer moves when this part touches it tomorrow when I can use my bench and light setup.




As you can see when the slide is jammed really tight like that the hammer isn't in that spot at all.

[RainyEyes]

Disassemble the slide and inspect the blowback unit.

Disassemble and take off the blowback unit that houses the nozzle. Is the piston inside okay?

I've experienced this before when an off-spec piston head o-ring was getting caught on the nozzle upon returning to battery.

I'm curious... I know the inner barrel shouldn't affect the cycle although it is outrageously long... could you try racking it without the inner barrel?

[XOIIO]

I don't want to take apart the hop up unit much more, since the metal on the screw is pretty soft, or I just got unlucky, and one of them started to strip a little bit, so plan is to leave it be, maybe even threadlock it when I have another hop up assembly.

I did give some support to the barrel while racking it and it made no difference.

This was a nice opportunity to get pictures of the sight mount, maybe this will help me find out if a real steel red dot sight mount will work on this gun.

Also a good thing I like tinkering with mechanical things, even though this is a crappy situation I enjoyed taking it apart, I gave the slide a thorough wipe down and re-lubrication, for some reason you will see a bit of paint wear in the area above the blowback unit.

The actual o ring in the blowback unit seems to be in immaculate shape which is good, the gun is only two or three days old after all, well, that and the test firing they did beforehand.

I did notice a little hook in the piston return spring, not sure if it's supposed to be like that or not, it does sort of hook underneath the sight I think. From the pictures I can find though that's abnormal.

I lubed the o ring thoroughly and for now at least the piston seems to be sliding in a little easier than before, it's not "catching' easily like it was before I did this process.

After a thorough lubing and cycling it a few times by hand it still catches on the hammer, there's a video below all these images that I took showing how much the hammer moves down even in the fully cocked position, and how much it moves down when the slide is over it.

The gun was shipping in it's own box without any special packaging around it but a bag, though that was in a larger box full of packing peanuts, I'm wondering if it's possible during transit it got knocked around a bit or somehow the sear spring got bent, or fatigued somehow, and that's why the hammer can move so much more? I'm hoping you guys can take videos of how much yours moves when it's fully cocked so I can see if mine is close or not.

Putting them in a spoiler to try and keep the thread a little more clean. My phone has a 21mp camera so you should be able to zoom in quite far unless imgur compresses them a lot.











https://youtu.be/0cWPsT3z33o

Full album with 37 pictures here, including a few retakes to get good ones and misc. others I took of the mount and whatnot to try and find a red dot mount in the future. Also has some old duplicates.

http://imgur.com/a/ZHNmt