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January 17th, 2014, 01:23 | #1 |
advanced gundoc techniques
Hey there airsoft canada land . I am currently rebuilding a gun from the ground up to be my primary. I am trying to make it as consistent, reliable, and accurate as possible. After scouring the internet, youtube, and this site and many like it, i have yet to find a forum about advanced techniques when working on airsoft guns. So here i am hoping to enlist the help of all you gun doctors out there. Are there any techniques out there that you personally use to add that slight edge to your internal builds. Ive seen a video where the tech who built the gun polished the piston rails and bearings to give it a smoother cycle and reduce heat. Is there any other neat or different techniques you guys use to help boost your builds?
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Loves me some CQB |
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January 17th, 2014, 01:33 | #2 |
formerly steyr
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Have you tried airsoft mechanics?
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January 17th, 2014, 01:35 | #3 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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I've never done anything REALLY out of the ordinary other than Rhop and making sure things don't wobble around. The only time I do mods or anything outside the box is to fix existing issues.
I never felt the need to do anything special to get really good range and accuracy, just use good parts, make sure everything is compatible, test for perfect compression and make sure nothing wobbles around. The biggest contributors to range and accuracy are the barrel, hop and BBs, and those are the 3 things people always tend to cheap out on. The most well tuned Rhop won't help if you're using low end .25s and a stock barrel. |
January 17th, 2014, 01:45 | #4 |
How much sand CAN you fit in your vagina!?
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There's usually a standard set of guidelines for rebuilding each mechbox version, when dealing with hop-up designs, and for maximizing performance. That being said, it takes some experience to be considered "advanced". For instance, aV2 mechbox generally has a method for shimming gears, and greasing, but an experienced gun doc will notice little bits of wobble or unbalance, and adapt appropriately for each individual gun.
Describe in detail the project, and the parts you want to use and why, and you'll get a better description on what to do. Some hop-ups and barrels work well together, and certain pieces have very unique but common mods that are done to them. Even a solid motor and appropriate battery combo will make a difference.
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I have developed a new sport called Airhard. Pretty much the same as Airsoft, except you have to maintain an erection... |
January 17th, 2014, 09:36 | #5 |
Mr. Silencer
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A magician never reveals his secrets.
*cue eye roll* Last edited by Stealth; January 17th, 2014 at 10:00.. |
January 17th, 2014, 10:39 | #6 |
How much sand CAN you fit in your vagina!?
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And bleeding ears...
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I have developed a new sport called Airhard. Pretty much the same as Airsoft, except you have to maintain an erection... |
January 17th, 2014, 10:50 | #7 |
Fainting Goat, Dictator of Quinte West
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January 17th, 2014, 11:27 | #8 |
"bb bukakke" KING!
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I futz with V2s, V3s and V6s. I could be wrong... but probably, most likely not, as far as I know. |
January 17th, 2014, 17:28 | #9 |
For the project im building im taking a cyma m4 and building it into a more reliable cqb gun for here at xtreme tactics.
The parts i have for the build are as follows. Internals: Matrix full tune up kit. shs tappet plate Shs selector plate king arms soft type 40° hop up b&w 6.04 tightbore inner barrel 301mm metal one peice hopup cyma mechbox wired to rear Externals: Big dragon metal body kit Magpul moe pistol grip magpul mbus vtol front railed flip up sight matrix cqbr front conversion and 200mm silencer I heard from a few sources that matching parts is the best way to make the internals really consistance and reliable so thats why i went with the matrix ftk. Im not trying to spend too much as im also saving up to buy an outdoor only gun for this upcoming outdoor season.
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Loves me some CQB |
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January 17th, 2014, 17:44 | #10 |
And a burst avacodo mosfet unit
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Loves me some CQB |
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January 17th, 2014, 18:42 | #11 |
I often say, unless you know *why* swapping a part is beneficial, and *what* does the part do exactly, leave it stock.
Get an account on the AirsoftMechanics forums. Don't post. Read. Understand. |
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January 17th, 2014, 19:41 | #12 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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soooooo essentially you put every low end part available on the market into a low end gun and now you want us to help you make it better? lol
HOWEVER Since it's an XT gun where the average engagement range is 10ft, it really doesn't matter. The only thing you need to worry about at XT is trigger response, so the only mod you really need to look at it short stroking the trigger. As for your outdoor gun, highly recommend you save up for a good base like VFC or G&P and build from there. If you want it to perform, you'll need to put good parts in it like lonex, prometheus or systema. And you absolutely cannot cheap out on the barrel and hop rubber. As far as performance is concerned, there's high end barrels (orga, PDI, prometheus), madbull just below those, and everything else. So if you're just buying a cheap barrel, it's not really an upgrade, you might as well keep the stock barrel. |
January 17th, 2014, 20:13 | #13 |
I think alot of people missed the whole point of this thread. Im looking more for teching tips than a parts list as i am just building this gun to get more experienced in the teching area. I already have many indoor guns that function well enough for play. Ive heard of things such as polishing bushings and bearings, "swish cheesing" the piston, removing teeth from gears and pistons and so forth. If i had the time and money i wouldnt be dealing with lower end patts and would probably just pay to have em upgraded and fine tuned, but apperently my fiance thinks that a wedding is more important (women...) I think it would be better to try something new with lower priced parts first and move up to high end once i have the skills and money to do so. I a have signed up for an account on airsoft mechanic. Thank you for sending me their way as that is more what i was looking for.
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January 17th, 2014, 20:49 | #14 |
Well removing a tooth or two from the piston is always a good idea for proper angle of engagement. I'm no expert, but the guns I've built have turned out (except for one that HKGhost fixed) quite well. I would also strongly recommend shimming your outer barrel with tape of some kind so it doesn't wobble in the receiver. On one gun I shimmed the inner barrel in the outer barrel too, but that was a for an excessively long barrel. I also often file the external part of the safety lever a bit so that it won't rub on the body and stick (this varies depending on the gun).
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January 18th, 2014, 01:07 | #15 |
Thanks maethori. Thats more of what im looking to get out of this thread
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