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Old August 15th, 2013, 11:17   #1
Kim-Haze
 
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Bioval BBs

I've been playing airsoft for just about two months now, and I've taken a liking to BIOVAL BBs I just bought myself some .25g because my gun's a little strong for the .2g and I was just wondering what you guys thought of Bioval. Good quality yay or nay?

Sorry if this is in the wrong thread figured it makes sense to put it in the review section.
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Old August 15th, 2013, 11:32   #2
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If your gun is hot change the spring not the bbs
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Old August 15th, 2013, 11:57   #3
Kim-Haze
 
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Nope the gun isn't hot. It's just strong. My friend and I both have the same gun it's an Echo1 PRI Delta, read great reviews about it and love the feel of it the only difference is that his shoots at 350 and mine at 390 (with .2g).
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Old August 15th, 2013, 12:05   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kim-Haze View Post
Nope the gun isn't hot. It's just strong. My friend and I both have the same gun it's an Echo1 PRI Delta, read great reviews about it and love the feel of it the only difference is that his shoots at 350 and mine at 390 (with .2g).
Thats because your gun is shooting HOT, change the spring, looks like your gun could have a stronger spring in order to get imported into Canada.......your gun is not stronger then his . Changing the BB will not change the fact it shoots 390.
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Old August 15th, 2013, 12:05   #5
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Should be using .28s then lol
You can google reviews or search ASC for info on biovals, there's lots of info on them
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Old August 15th, 2013, 12:21   #6
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To try and address your question: I haven't used Biovals myself so here are the tests I use to determine BB quality (hardly exhaustive, but good enough for most purposes):
1. The surface is glossy, without mould lines, pits or uneven texture.
2. Using some pliers to crush a BB, it should deform but stay in one piece, rather than shattering into lots of potentially gearbox destroying pieces.
3. Using calipers, check if the dimensions and variance match the stated values on the package. If the package has tolerances of greater than +/- 0.01mm, or if the package doesn't mention the tolerances at all (a big warning sign), don't use them.
4. Cut a BB down the middle, there should be no significant gaps or air bubbles.

To better explain xav1982's concern, FPS on its own does not indicicate how much a BB will hurt, rather it's impact energy, which is determined by a both a BB's mass and speed. A 1kg brick will hurt a lot more travelling 20FPS than a 0.2g BB at 330, so when you fire a heavier pellet from the same gun it'll hurt just as much even if it's travelling slower. When a field places FPS restrictions, it's actually a hidden energy limit rather than a speed limit, because they usually specifiy 0.2g BBs to test with. To reduce the energy of your shot, replace your gun's spring with a softer one, m100s are standard and will bring your FPS with 0.2s down to about 330.
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Last edited by Bellerophon; August 15th, 2013 at 12:23..
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Old August 15th, 2013, 12:30   #7
Kim-Haze
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anthon View Post
Thats because your gun is shooting HOT, change the spring, looks like your gun could have a stronger spring in order to get imported into Canada.......your gun is not stronger then his . Changing the BB will not change the fact it shoots 390.
Lol clearly I'm a newby :P alrighty then
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Old August 15th, 2013, 12:32   #8
Kim-Haze
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bellerophon View Post
To try and address your question: I haven't used Biovals myself so here are the tests I use to determine BB quality (hardly exhaustive, but good enough for most purposes):
1. The surface is glossy, without mould lines, pits or uneven texture.
2. Using some pliers to crush a BB, it should deform but stay in one piece, rather than shattering into lots of potentially gearbox destroying pieces.
3. Using calipers, check if the dimensions and variance match the stated values on the package. If the package has tolerances of greater than +/- 0.01mm, or if the package doesn't mention the tolerances at all (a big warning sign), don't use them.
4. Cut a BB down the middle, there should be no significant gaps or air bubbles.

To better explain xav1982's concern, FPS on its own does not indicicate how much a BB will hurt, rather it's impact energy, which is determined by a both a BB's mass and speed. A 1kg brick will hurt a lot more travelling 20FPS than a 0.2g BB at 330, so when you fire a heavier pellet from the same gun it'll hurt just as much even if it's travelling slower. When a field places FPS restrictions, it's actually a hidden energy limit rather than a speed limit, because they usually specifiy 0.2g BBs to test with. To reduce the energy of your shot, replace your gun's spring with a softer one, m100s are standard and will bring your FPS with 0.2s down to about 330.

Thanks guys! So softer spring should be the key y'all are very helpful
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Old August 15th, 2013, 13:24   #9
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Are you using this for CQB? Because 390 is about perfect for outdoor (assuming 400 limit, note that I say limit and it's not a goal). .28's are great even though it'll bring the BB down to like 340-ish or whatever it'll fly straight and true (due to momentum and crosswinds don't affect it as much), also better energy retention for punching through leaves and light brush.

If you want a CQB gun "M90" is perfect. You really don't need any more because of the short distances and reaction times needed to even try to "dodge" a BB (do the calculations and even at 270 FPS vs 350 FPS indoors the BB's time to target isn't that much different at like 10-15 metres).

BTW depending on the gun the spring will wear out a bit and "settle", I know the "gen 1" APS guns had spring that shot 450 out of the box but would rapidly drop to like 370 or something after a bit of time with the spring compressed or through shooting it in your backyard/basement.
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Old August 15th, 2013, 13:26   #10
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You're welcome. Side note: even with a softer spring, you'll want to use those .25s anyways if you have the chance. Heavier BBs (up to a certain point) will fly just as far or even farther than lighter ones (warning, physics major here: the force of subsonic drag is proportional to the square of the projectile's velocity, so lighter pellets may start faster but lose their velocity much more quickly), in addition to resisting crosswind and cutting through foliage more reliably. In short, you'll want to use the heaviest BB that your hop up can lift, .25s work well in that regard.
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Old August 15th, 2013, 13:36   #11
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I'm mostly focused on outdoor milsim to be honest. maybe in the winter get some cqb in. That being said I prefer the outdoors.
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Old August 15th, 2013, 13:40   #12
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Haha I've only got CEGEP (Junior college I think) physics under my belt I'm a psychology major. But I get what you're saying. So should I go heavier like .28 on my next purchase?
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Old August 15th, 2013, 15:00   #13
Bellerophon
 
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Sure, I use .28s outdoors all the time, not that I'm any authority on the subject. If it works with your hop up, and passes the previously mentioned tests, use it.
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Old August 15th, 2013, 15:12   #14
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@Kim: Bellerophon's explanations are right on the money (and concise yet informative!)

If you're playing outdoors than ~390 is going to be okay at games here. And yeah outdoors, .28 or even .30 is the way to go.
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Old August 15th, 2013, 15:27   #15
Kim-Haze
 
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Bang bang motha f****.

Seriously not disapointed I always feel i ask stupid questions and nevertheless you guys answer them politely and really well too. I'll probably be asking more questions as they come up :P
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