G&P Delta Ring Removal on WA GBBR

[mmmken]

Hi all,

I'm having some trouble taking my delta ring off of a G&P upper. The entire thing (upper, outer barrel, and front set) came preassembled by G&P. Just to confirm, is counter clockwise the direction to loosen it? For some reason I can't go EITHER way and the pins on my armourer's wrench are starting to bend from the amount of sheer force I'm trying to apply.

I have even tried heating it up with hot water with no success.

Someone have any ideas?

[GBBR]

YES! SO AWESOME WE BROKE 2 ARMOURER's WRENCHES!

[XZIVR]

I thought all barrel nuts were CCW.. In any event, try heating it with something a little more ballsy. Hair dryer or better yet, heat gun. If you don't have a heat gun, buy one. They can be had for as little as $30 at Canadian Tire and are verrrry useful. Once you have it you wonder how you did without.

[mmmken]

Originally Posted by XZIVR

I thought all barrel nuts were CCW.. In any event, try heating it with something a little more ballsy. Hair dryer or better yet, heat gun. If you don't have a heat gun, buy one. They can be had for as little as $30 at Canadian Tire and are verrrry useful. Once you have it you wonder how you did without.

Yep, I tried with a normal hair dryer and it didn't work. I was hesitant to use a heat gun because of the plastics inside, but did it anyway - still nothing.

As GBBR mentioned, we broke two armourers wrenches trying to get it off.. still nothing.

That's why I'm wondering if there are any instructions special to the G&P delta rings/upper for removal.. because this thing is not coming off.

[XZIVR]

Probably time to get extreme then. I had a King Arms M4 that was the same story. I actually twisted the upper trying to get the thing off and then had to work for a bit to twist it back. I then cut it off with a dremel. Buzz through the outer ring, put a cut on each side and it will just fall off. Then very carefully put a cut down the side of the nut itself, being very careful not to go too deep. Once you are through far enough, you can stick a giant flat blade screwdriver in and twist. The nut should then break the rest of the way along that line and you can use the AR tool to remove it. You will probably end up with slight damage to the threads on the reciever, but if you do it right there won't be any meaningful damage.

My rail used a different style nut so I didn't care about replacing it, but if you need to, you can buy barrel nuts/delta rings for under $30.

[Dynamo]

CCW to unthread, use a mallet to break the grip of the threads. G&P likes to glue the damn thing on.

[MaybeStopCalling]

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4...uct/BARREL-NUT

$20 bucks at Brownells, add $6 for shipping to your house within a week. That is, if the G&P receiver is RS threaded.

[HKGhost]

You just need leverage. You'll need a table vice and a breaker bar for the armor's wrench. If you don't have any of those things, bring it by and I'll give it a try. I've been removing PTW's delta rings without any issues. And they are torqued down to real steel spec.

[mmmken]

Originally Posted by Dynamo

CCW to unthread, use a mallet to break the grip of the threads. G&P likes to glue the damn thing on.

Yep, no good even with a mallet nor an hammer. I'm starting to feel like the threads are fake and the whole thing was made as a single piece, lol.

Originally Posted by HKGhost

You just need leverage. You'll need a table vice and a breaker bar for the armor's wrench. If you don't have any of those things, bring it by and I'll give it a try. I've been removing PTW's delta rings without any issues. And they are torqued down to real steel spec.

I don't have a table vice nor a breaker bar, but I've tried with C-clamps with no success. I may have to take you up on your offer, lol. PM'ed!

[kullwarrior]

You need a vice and a real armorer's wrench.
You can get the portable vice from Canadian Tire ($40-$50) no drilling to table required

[SuperHog]

My advice. Heat won't work.

I have taking a few G&P delta rings off and they do not use thread locker at all. It is torqued down and sometimes if the index holes don't line up at the top for the gas tube, the factory assembler will torque it further with more torque to line it up.

My only suggestion is to apply WD40 to the threads and give it time to seep into the threads. The oxide coating on delta ring is abrasive and tend to really grip onto the threads of the receiver. And once torqued down, it feels like thread locker holding it. Don't use a hammer, you could crack the pot metal receiver.

Also, make sure you are using a delta ring wrench so it can apply even pressure on the ring so it easier to take off. And the direction is CCW to remove the ring.

[mmmken]

Originally Posted by SuperHog

My advice. Heat won't work.

I have taking a few G&P delta rings off and they do not use thread locker at all. It is torqued down and sometimes if the index holes don't line up at the top for the gas tube, the factory assembler will torque it further with more torque to line it up.

My only suggestion is to apply WD40 to the threads and give it time to seep into the threads. The oxide coating on delta ring is abrasive and tend to really grip onto the threads of the receiver. And once torqued down, it feels like thread locker holding it. Don't use a hammer, you could crack the pot metal receiver.

Also, make sure you are using a delta ring wrench so it can apply even pressure on the ring so it easier to take off. And the direction is CCW to remove the ring.

Thanks!

We tried using Jigaloo (similar to WD40, I guess) with an Airsoft delta wrench that broke during the attempt. I don't have a RS wrench, so maybe that will help. I'm bringing it to HKGhost; so if he's unable to get it off, then we know it's permanent, lol.

[GBBR]

WHY DONT YOU TAKE MY ADVICE KEN! buy the adaptor

[Doc1990]

get a proper barrel wrench, not the mad bull, but a real one, iv never had any problems with mine and iv done both king arms, g&p and VFC with no problems what so ever.

[ILLusion]

I've had the same problem with G&P delta rings.

Real steel armourer's wrench + real steel receiver vice jig (doesn't fit well on AEG uppers), plus some brute strength is all that's needed to break the grip.

For what it's worth, the couple of G&P uppers that I've worked on recently all had some type of threadlocker applied.