Non Whiney Torque-Up Gears?

[Renegade)]

I got a set, whiney as fck... Im told most are loud, but here I seek some experience, does anyone know a set that can be quiet with a MS120 spring?

Also open to suggestions on ways to work with them, and make other improvements to make them quieter.

Oh and I know how to shim, my non torque up gears make my gun sound dead quiet, I want this, but with torque ups! No matter what combo of shims with these, cant make em quiet.

Thanks for all opinions.

Derek

[Ross]

I thought the only thing that can effect gear noise is shims and motor adjustment.

[Renegade)]

Apparently not with torque up gears. Other gears, no problem, good shimming and propper motor height.

Perhaps what I mean is gear noise over whine... I dont mean the whine that happens when shimming and motor height is off, I mean the natural noise from the gears working. Regulars can be super quiet, all of the torques in my experience, make a ton of noise no matter what.

Im looking for a brand that someone has been able to make just as quiet. If possible!

[enemybrit]

What motor are you running?

[coach]

nothing to do with his motor.

[Renegade)]

I have tried 3. Eagle Hummer 1300L, TM 1000 and TM 700 which is Super Torque. All noisy. Its def the gears.

[HKGhost]

I've found most to be whiney and cause more noise than standard ratio gears. Have you tried helical gears? I have a set but haven't tried them yet.

[enemybrit]

Use standard ratio 18:1's on your setup then. All those motors can pull a m120. No need for torque up gears.

[Renegade)]

Well I have noticed my wires and motor getting warm, since switching to Lifepo. Perhaps I should look into high speed gears than torque for that.

Only using a 7.4 Life, but I have a 11.1 Lipo that is just damn fun! But really heats the wiring up.

[ThunderCactus]

What brand is your mechbox, what brand are the gears?

[Renegade)]

I have a set of Systemas, and a set of Modify, both noisy no matter what. The Systema are helical.

Mechbox is a random reinforced I got off a buddy, couldnt tell you the brand.

[L473ncy]

7.4V LiFe? Sounds like a 2 cell Lipo to me. The nominal Voltage of a LiFePO4 cell is 3.3V, you can only get them in 3.3, 6.6, 9.9, 13.2V, etc.

This is irrelevant to the gear noise but what gauge wire are you using? Also what is the material of the wires? Ideal would be silver or copper but I assume companies tend to cheap out and end up using "substandard" wire materials (likely Alu). Lower resistance means less heat dissipation/power loss from natural "Vdrop" (general formula for Voltage is V=IR and Power is (V^2)/R).

Anyways, IRT the gears, are they helicals? By design they are supposed to run smoother and quieter. If you shim it right; theoretically the meshing and all that will be smooth and gradual and you should be able to get less noise than standard straight cut spur gears.

[enemybrit]

Just use stock xyt or jg gears and call it a day. :-)

[Renegade)]

Originally Posted by L473ncy

7.4V LiFe? Sounds like a 2 cell Lipo to me. The nominal Voltage of a LiFePO4 cell is 3.3V, you can only get them in 3.3, 6.6, 9.9, 13.2V, etc.

This is irrelevant to the gear noise but what gauge wire are you using? Also what is the material of the wires? Ideal would be silver or copper but I assume companies tend to cheap out and end up using "substandard" wire materials (likely Alu). Lower resistance means less heat dissipation/power loss from natural "Vdrop" (general formula for Voltage is V=IR and Power is (V^2)/R).

Anyways, IRT the gears, are they helicals? By design they are supposed to run smoother and quieter. If you shim it right; theoretically the meshing and all that will be smooth and gradual and you should be able to get less noise than standard straight cut spur gears.

Yeah battery is moot point, I was just referring to this because I was told my set up should run Torque ups. I have no issue keeping my stock TM gears, just seeing if there are any quiet ones out there that would handle the lipo and spring.

Wiring is 16g industrial. Also got a ASCU unit in there.

[MaciekA]

Your path to happiness:

1) A peppy LiPo w/ MOSFET
2) A neodymium motor like the JG Blue (also sold as the Echo1 high torque motor)
3) High speed (eg: 13:1) gears
4) Lots of shimming
5) Good grease with PTFE (Teflon)

Some gears seem to make more noise than others, sometimes it's the number of teeth, sometimes it's the shimming, sometimes it's contact, sometimes it's the motor's pinion gear being too high, sometimes it's a lack of lubrication. Also sometimes it's the material that the gears are made out of. Softer gears can be quieter.

Torque-up gears are slow to wind up and have tons of tooth interactions to go through before your shot cycle is completed. I believe that torque up gears are essentially useless since you can buy a very high torque motor with neodymium magnets for next to nothing and you can feed it juice from a very high discharge LiPo and pair it with high speed gears to experience the sound of the gears for the least amount of time -- and M120 / M130 springs are oooh-ahhh scary boogeyman stuff to some folks, but in the grand scheme of things a piece of cake for a neo motor and non-lemon gears

You've got the ASCU already, so you've basically ensured you'll be safe using a high discharge LiPo... Go with the above and you will be very pleased.

My personal recipe:

1) SHS 13:1 gearset - have also tried the 15:1-ish set from Modify but it's expensive compared to the SHS and trigger response won't be as great.
2) Modify advanced shim set. 0.1mm shims are fantastic for the "finishing touches" on your shimming work.
3) Superlube - extremely cost-effective, verified to work on all sorts of airsoft setups, great grease, has PFTE.. etc (eBay -- 10-15 bucks got me two tubes that will literally last me a kajillion builds).
4) JG Blue / Echo1 high torque motor (35 - 40 bucks, very very strong magnets) - alternatives that also are working for me: G&P M160 (decent, though discontinued and expensive), Guarder Infinite Torque Up Motor (okay price at $67, but awesome performance and very strong magnets).
5) Deans or XT60 wiring -- interestingly enough I haven't had issues with gauges that are thinner than 16AWG
6) AWS Raptor or Extreme-Fire MOSFET.
7) Check piston's fitment in gearbox - my method is to remove mainspring, remove gears, put the piston in without the piston head, re-seal gearbox and ensure the piston can freely move up and down the track. I was surprised to come across some pistons that have trouble moving to and fro with this test and sometimes actually have a TON of friction. This check will further reduce heating problems and increase efficiency if you can find the perfect-fit piston.

Hope some of this helps!