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February 18th, 2011, 10:52 | #1 |
TM G36C to K; inner barrel
I'm considering upgrading my TM G36C to a K. First, would the longer barrel gain me anything significant for outdoor? If not then it's probably more practical and versatile to keep it a C.
Second, if it would be better to up to a K, does any one know if this conversion kit's barrel system that is included contain an inner barrel? Some info would be awesome. Cheers. |
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February 18th, 2011, 11:17 | #2 |
The inner barrel set that's included in the kit replaces the stock inner barrel. However, there will no longer be room for a stock battery in the frontend, so you'll either need to rear-wire the battery into the "sniper stock" that you can find on most retailers, or a PEQ box to keep the battery at the front.
The hopup will also no longer lock into the outer barrel (at least, that was the case with mine), it will still have the spring, but the rotate bit that keeps it in place is no longer there. Not a problem if you never disassemble the gun, just something to keep in mind. The metal outer barrel provides a LOT more stability for the inner barrel, no more flex.
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Current Gear: TM G36C/SL-9, WE M14, WE PDW, KWA USP, KJW USP Tactical Future Gear: TM PSG1, M700, ARES DSR-1 v2 |
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February 18th, 2011, 11:26 | #3 |
a.k.a. HKpro
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The G36K can fit a mini battery or a nunchuck battery in the front end, though with the KSK frontend there isn't much to keep the battery in place.
I doubt upgrading to a K model would have much effect on accuracy, you might be better off installing a tightbore. The K is still very compact (you can fit it in a backpack), but you would get the most advantage out of the KSK rail system for attaching cool things. Last edited by Debrief; February 18th, 2011 at 11:32.. |
February 18th, 2011, 17:42 | #4 | |
Quote:
Thanks Dire-Wolf, for the info. I've got some thinking to do. |
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February 18th, 2011, 18:09 | #5 |
If you wanted, there are much cheaper options for a C or K rail system at Ehobby/Ebaybanned/etc, but the quality might be a bit lower.
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February 18th, 2011, 22:04 | #6 |
formerly BLACKWATER204
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Just purchuse a high grade tightbore and you will be better off, Can't go wrong with PDI(6.01mm) EdGI (6.01mm) or Promy(6.03mm),I'd say PDI or EdGI if you use high grade BB's.
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All right, they're on our left, they're on our right, they're in front of us, they're behind us... they can't get away this time! - Lieutenant General Lewis B."Chesty" Puller (when surrounded by 8 enemy divisions) Born to fight, trained to kill, ready to die, but never will. |
February 18th, 2011, 22:16 | #7 |
yeah the tightbore is a must. I'm gonna stick with the C. I've seen some of the ones off of eHobby but I'd rather spend a little more to get some good metal.
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February 18th, 2011, 22:20 | #8 |
formerly BLACKWATER204
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I would, that's my next venture (G36c). As for going high quality that would be a must as well, I've bought cheap tightbores before......paid for it dearly (couldn't hit the broad side of a barn! )
__________________
All right, they're on our left, they're on our right, they're in front of us, they're behind us... they can't get away this time! - Lieutenant General Lewis B."Chesty" Puller (when surrounded by 8 enemy divisions) Born to fight, trained to kill, ready to die, but never will. |
February 18th, 2011, 22:47 | #9 | |
Quote:
In a few months this will be my eye. Bushnell's 1x32 amberlight red dot |
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