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how to remove the screw with worn thread???

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Old January 27th, 2011, 16:37   #1
ryan1796
 
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how to remove the screw with worn thread???

As you can the picture, it's worn down.
It's MOE grip and 2mm hex key screw.
I really need to remove it but I have no idea how should I remove it. But I think I mogith be able to use 3/32 size hex key if I wear it more....
Any idea??!!


Also, I need to make the red circled hole lot bigger to install my Modify recoil kit. Any idea how??


Thanks!
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Old January 27th, 2011, 16:47   #2
Danke
 
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I'd try a screw extractor and a reversing drill. Do up the one that's not wrecked tight though first and make sure you go at its straight since the thread inside the grip are fairly fragile.

That looks like a lot of material to remove in the other picture. If that's a cast part you you have there I'd be pretty nervous chewing that much of it out.
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Old January 27th, 2011, 17:14   #3
BGrail25
 
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Try getting a larger size than what it is now. Pound it with a hammer until it fits the hole tightly. Unscrew, and voila. Also try with a philips screwdriver, see if that might work.
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Old January 27th, 2011, 17:18   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BGrail25 View Post
Try getting a larger size than what it is now. Pound it with a hammer until it fits the hole tightly. Unscrew, and voila. Also try with a philips screwdriver, see if that might work.
I hate to appear as an immature idiot, but THAT'S WHAT SHE SAID!
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Old January 27th, 2011, 17:26   #5
BGrail25
 
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What the hell was she doing with a philips screwdriver?
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Old January 27th, 2011, 19:02   #6
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1. You could try a torx head. Sometimes that works if you have a worn out hex screw (I fucking hate hex screws by the way, worst designed screwdriver/screwhead EVER)

2. Dremel?
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Old January 28th, 2011, 01:17   #7
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+1 to everything styrak just said
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Old January 28th, 2011, 01:43   #8
ryan1796
 
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Thank you so much guys! I'll try it tomorrow right after I wake up

And I guess I'll just buy another regular metal body....I don't want to screw with the metal body..
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Old January 28th, 2011, 02:20   #9
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I'm guessing you're actually trying to remove a screw with a stripped HEAD.

If the head is accessible, I have had some luck with tapping in a modified X-Acto knife. I grind off the tip (with a Dremel) so I have a chisel point which is slightly smaller than the widest opening in the screw head. I hold the blade crosswise with a pair of needle nose pliers and tap the chisel end into the fastener head so it swages into the head like a really sharp common slot screwdriver pressing into the hex opening. Using the same pair of pliers I can usually crank out the screw.

Wear safety goggles as chips of metal can come pinging off the blade when you strike it or crank on it.

This trick seems to be useful on screws smaller than M4 for which screw extractors can be hard to find.
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Old February 1st, 2011, 15:37   #10
Cinco Boy
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I have this exact same problem on my m.o.e. grip, what the hell is with magpul's lack of quality? Not what I expect from a $50 grip...
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Old February 1st, 2011, 15:43   #11
Danke
 
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What I like to do with those threads is back the back the motor adjustment screw off. Give a dab of grease to each screw on the thread and the head so it floats on the surface of the cover.

Then I push the cover down with my thumb till it's white and start threading the screws by hand to prevent cross threading. I get one started and then start the other. If i get any binding I pull the first and try starting the other. If I still get grief I pull the cap, open the holes up a bit and de-burr them.

Then I finish up by snugging the screws in a back and forth pattern like it was a lug nut.

Then when I pull them I take tension off the motor and pre-load the cover plate with my thumb again to reduce the chance of any binding.
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Old February 1st, 2011, 18:07   #12
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two easy solutions if you've got the tools

1 - if you have power drill, get a stripped screw remover kit. Cost is about $10-20 at any hardware store

2 - can be a little messy, but removal is pretty easy. Requires a dremil.. just cut yourself a solid line right through the screw and you've got yourself a screw that can be accessed by a flat head screw driver.

Option 1 is always the better choice.
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Old February 3rd, 2011, 11:55   #13
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I'm having a similar problem with a set screw that won't budge. My 1.5mm Allen keys don't seem to fit it perfectly, so I can't get a good grip.

I like the dremel idea - any other suggestions? Last resort I could crazy glue an expendable key in there to hopefully get a little torque.
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Old February 3rd, 2011, 14:31   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixb0nes View Post
I'm having a similar problem with a set screw that won't budge. My 1.5mm Allen keys don't seem to fit it perfectly, so I can't get a good grip.

I like the dremel idea - any other suggestions? Last resort I could crazy glue an expendable key in there to hopefully get a little torque.
If you have a torque screw set that may work, if not then get a non metric sized set of allen keys and it should come out.
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Old February 3rd, 2011, 14:47   #15
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That and a small amount of C4
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