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Old August 17th, 2010, 17:30   #1
heatscore
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Fredericton NB
JG M4 Not Responding

Hi,

my jg m4 stopped firing yesterday out of nowhere. i looked into possible solutions but have had no luck. at first i thought it may have been a blown fuse but ireplaced it with no success.i did use a 35A fuse instead of a 20 but would that make a difference? i'm almost positive its an electrical problem.

there is no motor response at all, and neither of my freshly charged batteries do anything. could it be a wiring problem ?

anyway, help would be greatly appreciated. hopefully it doesnt need to see the doctor for the third time this summer.
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Old August 17th, 2010, 17:39   #2
m102404
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Switch from Safe right over to Full Auto...see if that gets things going again.

Try taking the motor out of the grip
- 2 screws on grip cap
- check that the wiring is still connected to motor (red +, black other)

You can get the motor out, hook back up the wires, plug in the battery and give the trigger a pull. If it spins it's not necessarily a wiring problem.

If it doesn't spin when you do that...check the wiring/pins in your connectors, the wire/fuse holder and the wiring/battery connector.

Try a different battery.

The 20A fuse is 20A for a reason....but that said, it should still shoot (if it's working) with a 35A fuse. If something did cause the motor to cook it might have done it before the 35A fuse would have blown...dunno (that's why fuses are typically lower 15A-20A).

After that...you've got to get into it.
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Old August 17th, 2010, 18:09   #3
venture
 
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check the motor connectors
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Old August 17th, 2010, 18:28   #4
heatscore
 
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@M102404 i have tried all of these now to no avail.

@Venture ive checked and tested the connectors several times.. there is positively no power running through it and as far as i can tell nothing is out of place outside the mechbox which im hesitating to open. maybe the motor is dead..?
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Old August 17th, 2010, 19:09   #5
coach
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is the piston locked back? could be a broken selector plate or a number of other things.

does your motor spin outside of the mech box? remove motor then plug it back in while outside the grip. attach battery and try shooting.
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Old August 17th, 2010, 19:25   #6
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I hate to have you send it all the way back here, heat. Let us see if we can fix this from here. Try what coachster said.
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Old August 17th, 2010, 19:34   #7
heatscore
 
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motor doesnt work when firing with it outside the pistol grip. tried that a few times already. i dont think its the selector because it looked like it was supposed to.. at least from others i looked at today...the piston is out like it should be. ithink the motors fried. its had 10k+ rounds through it in the last 6 weeks , with about 3000 in the last few days

Last edited by heatscore; August 17th, 2010 at 19:37..
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Old August 17th, 2010, 19:48   #8
coach
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okay then. pull the motor and power it directly from the battery. hold on tight or put it in a vice. connect one terminal, then just quickly touch the other for a moment. it should spin up. if it just sparks, then your motor is pooched.

if you have a multimeter you should also test your motor wires. remove the battery and short the guns battery connector (not the battery). set your multimeter to continuity and hook it up to the motor wires. when you pull the trigger in semi and auto, you should get continuity. if not, you got a wiring issue or your switch assembly is done. btw, do this test with the fuse bypassed. remove the fuse and connect both fuse holder ends together.
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Old August 17th, 2010, 20:07   #9
heatscore
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coachster View Post
okay then. pull the motor and power it directly from the battery. hold on tight or put it in a vice. connect one terminal, then just quickly touch the other for a moment. it should spin up. if it just sparks, then your motor is pooched.

if you have a multimeter you should also test your motor wires. remove the battery and short the guns battery connector (not the battery). set your multimeter to continuity and hook it up to the motor wires. when you pull the trigger in semi and auto, you should get continuity. if not, you got a wiring issue or your switch assembly is done. btw, do this test with the fuse bypassed. remove the fuse and connect both fuse holder ends together.
ok, i did this and the motor spun.. so isit the wiring giving me grief?
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Old August 17th, 2010, 20:20   #10
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It may be a solder joint has come loose. I have already fixed one Chinese clone that had crappy soldering.

Do you know Kix84, Heat?
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Old August 17th, 2010, 20:31   #11
heatscore
 
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i dont know him personally but ive seen him on AAS. is he closer than you? last time i tried to solder wires on something iwrecked it. i saw an earler topic that discussed soldering wires into the mechbox and it kind of scared me :P
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Old August 17th, 2010, 20:40   #12
coach
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heatscore View Post
ok, i did this and the motor spun.. so isit the wiring giving me grief?
Could be as simple as a bad solder joint, bad connector, broken wire or a pooched switch assembly.

Last edited by coach; August 17th, 2010 at 20:55..
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Old August 17th, 2010, 21:00   #13
venture
 
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The aeg is brand new. I would hope the switch assembly is ok, but you never know with China Clones.

Are you in Fredericton now Heat? Kix is in Fredericton.
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Old August 17th, 2010, 21:53   #14
heatscore
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by venture View Post
The aeg is brand new. I would hope the switch assembly is ok, but you never know with China Clones.

Are you in Fredericton now Heat? Kix is in Fredericton.
i probably will be this weekend.
dont move back up until september
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Old August 17th, 2010, 21:54   #15
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Kix is in Moncton actually. But his soldering work is very clean.
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