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My TM Hi-Capa 5.1: Episode 2

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Old February 1st, 2009, 12:11   #31
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ah well, I am sure it's too late to do that. At any rate I ordered a key with it(no I never had one before). I'll figure something to do with the valves....
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Old February 1st, 2009, 14:03   #32
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Sexy build man.

I've never liked shooting double-stacks, but they sure are sexy to look at.
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Old February 1st, 2009, 18:32   #33
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Some update on that FPS business, the propane bottle was running low, so I got a new one and tested again with the current setup. Now I am getting about ~360fps pretty consistantly now. I think the AS nozzle still gets higher fps, but it broke, so I'll take what I can now. I've taken this think apart and together probably 10-15 times these past few days, lots of filing, sanding and lubing...lol
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Old February 1st, 2009, 18:39   #34
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Wait a sec, an Airsoft Surgeon part BROKE? Thats crazy to me.
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Old February 1st, 2009, 19:56   #35
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I was as surprised as you.....
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Old February 1st, 2009, 20:01   #36
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eHobby uses Airmail. So probably 7-14 business days.
Dammmm....7 to 14 days?? My shipment said it left Canada on the 30th
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Old February 2nd, 2009, 22:38   #37
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My stock TM modded mag valves produce the same or better power than all the aftermarket units I've tried...And I haven't broken or damaged one in thousands of rounds.

RM - I've been having plently of sucess using the Shooters Design O-ring on the Airsoft Surgeon/ProG4 Breech/Piston Head, along with a Shooters Design Loading Nozzel.

Your 360FPS on .20g (?) bbs is quite good on 6.05 inner barrel.
Especially if you are not warming your mags.

What hop-up bucking are you using?

If you swap to a PDI 163mm 6.01 inner barrel, a good high flow mag valve you will be at 400-410fps with warmed mags.

I'm not a FPS junky anymore. But I do think there is a topic of discussion on accuracy, considering BB weight and Joules.
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Old February 2nd, 2009, 23:25   #38
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My idea is to be able to get the fps, which would allow faster speed with heavier BB, which *should* mean more stable trajectory of the heavier BB with the speed of the lighter BB. I've been able to get ~315-320 with .25s now.

The thing I am not understanding though is that the SD O-ring seems to seal real well in terms of fitment with the SD nozzle and ProG4 piston. But the FPS is just not there compare to the AS nozzle....
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Old February 3rd, 2009, 00:06   #39
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I'm not sure either. Though I use either Proud or NineBall floating valve springs. I never use SD floating valves (they stick in SD nozzels). I normally use a stock floating valve or the Action (or King Arms) floating valves.

What are you using? Were you switching the same loading nozzel internals and just swaping nozzels? Maybe the loading nozzel tips are different size and you're not getting the same seal? What hopup bucking are you using? I only use NineBall hop up buckings.

I just chrono'd my ProG4 with a 5.1 length NineBall .03 inner barrel. All shots between 350-360 fps on .20g.
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Old February 3rd, 2009, 00:10   #40
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stock floating valve and stock hopup....though "different" stock floating valve, as in when I swapped I just took one for another(out of my 1911 atm).....I guess I could try swapping that too...

On the side note, I swapped the ProG4 trigger loop+trigger into the new gun from my SV. No electrical tape shimming was needed to get the slack free pull, pretty satisfied with that part....
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Old February 3rd, 2009, 00:13   #41
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Yes, the ProG4 trigger bow is awesome. I'm going to have to get a couple more of those... In fact, I may even get a wholesale order of those.
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Old February 3rd, 2009, 21:47   #42
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hmm...I love shooting wide open.....
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Old February 3rd, 2009, 22:03   #43
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Have you had a chance to tune the trigger bar?
Besides being made of steel and being able hold it proper form, the cut tab on the front is the a great feature. They have been using this feature on real guns for a while. I have cut stock trigger bars to do the same thing...problem was the flimsy metal the stock trigger bar is made of.

Be careful with the "reset" feature. It doesnt need to be pushed very far forward to do its job. And if you do push it too far, it won't allow the the trigger to reset properly (ie. the disconnector won't have enough room to slide under the sear beause the triger bar would still be pushing back on it).
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Old February 3rd, 2009, 23:41   #44
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Yeah, that was the first thing I noticed, as I went pretty extreme with the initial adjustments and slowly tuned it back.
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Old February 3rd, 2009, 23:54   #45
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what's the reset you are referring to? The set screw or something else?
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