how to remove the screw with worn thread???

sundae_1021 · February 3rd, 2011, 15:23

use a square head screw driver.. I put a WD40 and use a squarehead screw driver when 1 of the screw of my gearbox got worn..

sixb0nes · February 16th, 2011, 19:53

Well I went down the screw extractor path after failing to make a slot (not enough of surface showing and too brittle). No luck. Now I'm left with drilling out the screw. I feel like curbing the piece entirely at this point!

Does anyone know a place in London that might be able to drill this thing out and retap if necessary - I'm at my wits end. That or someone who could do it on ASC, I'll pay you. Please get this screw out for me!! ARGGG.

coach · February 16th, 2011, 20:00

Take an Allen key and dab a bit of JB weld on it then shove it in the worn out set screw. Let it cure using whatever you have to hold it up straight. Tape and cardboard work, just be creative. Remove when dry.

Just make sure to not let too much ooze out. Clean up any excess.

I recommend JB weld over crazy/super glue because it will fill up the space in the stripped set screw. I mean you can try it but in my experience crazy glue might not hold up to the rotational torque applied.

Also crazy glue might drip down into the threads screwing you over for good. Pun intended.

sixb0nes · February 16th, 2011, 20:24

Maybe? Besides dropping my kitchen sink on it (repeatedly at this point), I've tried everything else

My predicament:

Sportco · February 16th, 2011, 20:48

Depending how hard the screw is...

1) Redrill a hole as centerline as possible (use NEW good quality drill bit)

2) using JB weld glue a screw in the hole or allen key... let fully cure

3) apply loose nut to the external tread (let penetrate for 24hrs)

4) warm up the receiver (heat gun)

5) try to unscrew applying back and forth motion with increasing force

6) If it fails... curses violently and put the damned thing into a low orbit (or machine shop)

7) Buy anti seize compound for futur reassembly projects that use flimsy bolts and... IF applicable (throw away worn cheap screw drivers and Allen Keys)

Cheers

Ritikuo · February 16th, 2011, 21:00

try to find a lip on that screw head (whatever is left of it), take a small flat head screwdriver and try to hammer the head counter clockwise.

MadMax · February 16th, 2011, 22:37

Man that's bad. I've never seen a screw head that badly gnarled. It looks like you used a power tool on it. At that point I would carefully TIG weld a bit of metal onto it to torque on. If you don't have a TIG welder or don't want to heat it because of connected plastic parts (which would melt) I think your only recourse is to carefully centerpunch a mark in the middle and drill the head off.

Pick a drill bit diameter a little bit larger than the fastener shank. As the drill cuts deeper it will eventually drill out to the shoulder on the head and take the head off. At this point the assembly should come apart which would expose a stub of the screw for you to grip on. Heat the screw to soften any thread locking adhesive (if there is any). If there is no thread locker, the screw should back out with no tension force holding it in. It may help to lightly tap the stub down with a screwdriver handle to shake it loose before cranking on it. I often use a three jaw chuck to grip a screw stub as you can crank them down pretty tight.

Sportco · February 16th, 2011, 23:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by MadMax

Man that's bad. I've never seen a screw head that badly gnarled. It looks like you used a power tool on it. At that point I would carefully TIG weld a bit of metal onto it to torque on. If you don't have a TIG welder or don't want to heat it because of connected plastic parts (which would melt) I think your only recourse is to carefully centerpunch a mark in the middle and drill the head off.

Pick a drill bit diameter a little bit larger than the fastener shank. As the drill cuts deeper it will eventually drill out to the shoulder on the head and take the head off. At this point the assembly should come apart which would expose a stub of the screw for you to grip on. Heat the screw to soften any thread locking adhesive (if there is any). If there is no thread locker, the screw should back out with no tension force holding it in. It may help to lightly tap the stub down with a screwdriver handle to shake it loose before cranking on it. I often use a three jaw chuck to grip a screw stub as you can crank them down pretty tight.

OK... now i'd do it your way!

They say experiance is something you get 20 minutes AFTER you needed it...

Not tonight... Thank for the method Brah

Drakker · February 16th, 2011, 23:36

A grabit has been proposed before, but now this is a job for:

It says bolt remover, but it works very well for small screws. In fact, a few days ago I removed a stripped screw on an M4 pistol grip, it was probably about the same size as the screw you are trying to remove.

sixb0nes · February 17th, 2011, 06:10

Sorry if I wasn't clear ... since I am piggy-backing on the OP's problem ...

This is (was!) a 2mm grub/set screw, the and micro-grabit is exactly what I used on my last attempt - thus the concave look to it. It just doesn't want to bite.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I've not given up yet but this set screw WILL come out one way or another.

ThunderCactus · February 17th, 2011, 19:40

I've seen worse lol
unfortunately its really difficult for people to do one-off screw repair, it's much easier for me since I have access to all this crap at work, and being a gunsmith I can justify buying the tools
If you give up, send it out to me and I'll fix it up nice for ya

As for advice at this point, like Sportco said, drill it out, and either get a thread repair kit or thread it to a bigger size.
Fortunately, these screws are made of absolute garbage material and can usually be drilled out pretty accurately with some "quality" canadian tire drills and a drill press.

If you feel like dumping this problem on my lap, I'll take it to work, drill it out with a snazzy carbide drill, install a helicoil (so you can't strip the threads), and even go so far as to supply you with TWO quality replacement screws

lol

MadMax · February 17th, 2011, 22:14

Now that I look at that picture again, I'm not sure my technique would work well. I'm getting the feeling that the screw is used to prevent the outer barrel from rotating out. In this case, drilling the head off will leave a stub in the clearance hole which may be very difficult to remove since you'll have nothing to grip on.

Usually screws are used to pull parts together so busting the head off frees the part exposing the stub for you to grip with pliers or a drill chuck. If breaking the head doesn't clear the part away to expose the the stub, then you're kind of extra super f!cked.

At this point I think you should get some expert assistance. Centerline drilling would probably work, but you'll likely shoot the hole slightly eccentric which would bugger the current threaded hole and could also move the hole center which would mean the helicoil thread repair you put in would be subsequently shifted. My usual approach to this kind of thing is to fixture the thing in a mill and center to the hole before going in with a stub length carbide. They're stiff drills which don't wander much on the way in. You could drill the fastener out with a drill sized to the root diameter of the thread which would remove the screw and often not trash the current inside thread, but I'm guessing that you haven't got a mill in your basement.

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February 3rd, 2011, 15:23	#16
sundae_1021 Trader rating Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Vancouver BC	use a square head screw driver.. I put a WD40 and use a squarehead screw driver when 1 of the screw of my gearbox got worn.. __________________ MAGDALO HATERS GONNA HATE

February 16th, 2011, 19:53	#17
sixb0nes Trader rating Join Date: May 2009	Well I went down the screw extractor path after failing to make a slot (not enough of surface showing and too brittle). No luck. Now I'm left with drilling out the screw. I feel like curbing the piece entirely at this point! Does anyone know a place in London that might be able to drill this thing out and retap if necessary - I'm at my wits end. That or someone who could do it on ASC, I'll pay you. Please get this screw out for me!! ARGGG. __________________ ┌────────────────────────── ─ ── ∙ │ He who dies with the most guns, wins. └

February 16th, 2011, 20:24	#19
sixb0nes Trader rating Join Date: May 2009	Maybe? Besides dropping my kitchen sink on it (repeatedly at this point), I've tried everything else My predicament: __________________ ┌────────────────────────── ─ ── ∙ │ He who dies with the most guns, wins. └

February 16th, 2011, 20:00	#18
coach aka coachster Trader rating Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: T dot	Take an Allen key and dab a bit of JB weld on it then shove it in the worn out set screw. Let it cure using whatever you have to hold it up straight. Tape and cardboard work, just be creative. Remove when dry. Just make sure to not let too much ooze out. Clean up any excess. I recommend JB weld over crazy/super glue because it will fill up the space in the stripped set screw. I mean you can try it but in my experience crazy glue might not hold up to the rotational torque applied. Also crazy glue might drip down into the threads screwing you over for good. Pun intended.

February 16th, 2011, 20:48	#20
Sportco would-be wine thief Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: St-Hilaire	Depending how hard the screw is... 1) Redrill a hole as centerline as possible (use NEW good quality drill bit) 2) using JB weld glue a screw in the hole or allen key... let fully cure 3) apply loose nut to the external tread (let penetrate for 24hrs) 4) warm up the receiver (heat gun) 5) try to unscrew applying back and forth motion with increasing force 6) If it fails... curses violently and put the damned thing into a low orbit (or machine shop) 7) Buy anti seize compound for futur reassembly projects that use flimsy bolts and... IF applicable (throw away worn cheap screw drivers and Allen Keys) Cheers __________________ Level 3 Directory assistance operator Level 1 skapegoat It ain't the years, it's the miles. Last edited by Sportco; February 16th, 2011 at 20:57..

February 16th, 2011, 21:00	#21
Ritikuo Trader rating Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Toronto	try to find a lip on that screw head (whatever is left of it), take a small flat head screwdriver and try to hammer the head counter clockwise.

February 16th, 2011, 22:37	#22
MadMax Delierious Designer of Dastardly Detonations Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: in the dark recesses of some metal chip filled machine shop	Man that's bad. I've never seen a screw head that badly gnarled. It looks like you used a power tool on it. At that point I would carefully TIG weld a bit of metal onto it to torque on. If you don't have a TIG welder or don't want to heat it because of connected plastic parts (which would melt) I think your only recourse is to carefully centerpunch a mark in the middle and drill the head off. Pick a drill bit diameter a little bit larger than the fastener shank. As the drill cuts deeper it will eventually drill out to the shoulder on the head and take the head off. At this point the assembly should come apart which would expose a stub of the screw for you to grip on. Heat the screw to soften any thread locking adhesive (if there is any). If there is no thread locker, the screw should back out with no tension force holding it in. It may help to lightly tap the stub down with a screwdriver handle to shake it loose before cranking on it. I often use a three jaw chuck to grip a screw stub as you can crank them down pretty tight. __________________ Want nearly free GBB gas?

February 16th, 2011, 23:36	#24
Drakker Official ASC Geomorphologist Trader rating Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Montr?al south shore, Qc	A grabit has been proposed before, but now this is a job for: It says bolt remover, but it works very well for small screws. In fact, a few days ago I removed a stripped screw on an M4 pistol grip, it was probably about the same size as the screw you are trying to remove. __________________ Keep quiet. Sound travels faster than BBs. Québec province's master age verification representative.

February 17th, 2011, 06:10	#25
sixb0nes Trader rating Join Date: May 2009	Sorry if I wasn't clear ... since I am piggy-backing on the OP's problem ... This is (was!) a 2mm grub/set screw, the and micro-grabit is exactly what I used on my last attempt - thus the concave look to it. It just doesn't want to bite. Thanks for all the suggestions. I've not given up yet but this set screw WILL come out one way or another. __________________ ┌────────────────────────── ─ ── ∙ │ He who dies with the most guns, wins. └ Last edited by sixb0nes; February 17th, 2011 at 06:53..

February 17th, 2011, 19:40	#26
ThunderCactus Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture! Trader rating Join Date: Feb 2007	I've seen worse lol unfortunately its really difficult for people to do one-off screw repair, it's much easier for me since I have access to all this crap at work, and being a gunsmith I can justify buying the tools If you give up, send it out to me and I'll fix it up nice for ya As for advice at this point, like Sportco said, drill it out, and either get a thread repair kit or thread it to a bigger size. Fortunately, these screws are made of absolute garbage material and can usually be drilled out pretty accurately with some "quality" canadian tire drills and a drill press. If you feel like dumping this problem on my lap, I'll take it to work, drill it out with a snazzy carbide drill, install a helicoil (so you can't strip the threads), and even go so far as to supply you with TWO quality replacement screws lol

February 17th, 2011, 22:14	#27
MadMax Delierious Designer of Dastardly Detonations Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: in the dark recesses of some metal chip filled machine shop	Now that I look at that picture again, I'm not sure my technique would work well. I'm getting the feeling that the screw is used to prevent the outer barrel from rotating out. In this case, drilling the head off will leave a stub in the clearance hole which may be very difficult to remove since you'll have nothing to grip on. Usually screws are used to pull parts together so busting the head off frees the part exposing the stub for you to grip with pliers or a drill chuck. If breaking the head doesn't clear the part away to expose the the stub, then you're kind of extra super f!cked. At this point I think you should get some expert assistance. Centerline drilling would probably work, but you'll likely shoot the hole slightly eccentric which would bugger the current threaded hole and could also move the hole center which would mean the helicoil thread repair you put in would be subsequently shifted. My usual approach to this kind of thing is to fixture the thing in a mill and center to the hole before going in with a stub length carbide. They're stiff drills which don't wander much on the way in. You could drill the fastener out with a drill sized to the root diameter of the thread which would remove the screw and often not trash the current inside thread, but I'm guessing that you haven't got a mill in your basement. __________________ Want nearly free GBB gas?

how to remove the screw with worn thread???

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