April 23rd, 2015, 18:28 | #31 |
a.k.a. por-no
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May 13th, 2015, 22:12 | #32 |
is it only me, or its a pain in the ass to keep working properly?
The purple shell had to be open, clean, grease and lub to work properly. I just receive 3 box of the orange shells, and they seems to need some work too, but I am not sure how to make those little bastards work. I will soon open up that piece of steel, I suppose it like the RS ... but different :P anyone have advice or experience to share about that gun? thank |
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May 13th, 2015, 23:34 | #33 |
Green Synergy
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I had the same experience as yours with the shells.
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May 14th, 2015, 06:18 | #34 |
did you find a way with the cheap ass orange shells?
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May 14th, 2015, 10:01 | #35 |
May 14th, 2015, 14:02 | #36 |
Green Synergy
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Looking at the design, it seems like a soak in oil once completely disassembled will fix the majority of shells. Unfortunately I'm at the point where I can't afford to spend the time on this that I did on my WE C8... so I sold it and excluded the shells from the purchase cost.
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May 17th, 2015, 16:06 | #37 |
The orange shells finaly work! Hoyaah
They were less tricky than the purple shell. I just put silicone in the valve were the hammer strike while pushing it down. No need to open them. Little note, the orange shells and the purple shells behave very differently. That why I presume they were note working The purple shells completly empty themself when you shoot them. The orange shells can be reload with a BB few time before the FPS drop to much. When you put gaz in the orange shells, it quickly get full and the gaz spray all over. |
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May 17th, 2015, 20:48 | #38 |
They look awesome, and it'd be a lot of fun to muck around with, but the memory of constantly picking up shells for my good ol' UHC Super 9 haunts me.
Ask Siggypoo, the bastard still has it. Finding the shells and a rotary mag for the damn thing is a pain in the ass.
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Current collection:
KJW SIG P226R -- WE 1911 Punisher -- KSC USP Tactical -- KWA USP Compact KWA MP7A1 -- WE M4A1 -- WE KAC PDW -- WE G39K |
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May 25th, 2015, 21:30 | #39 |
Hi guys,
Last week I got a double feed with the shotgun. It was completly jam. I had one shell in the chamber and one stock halfway in the tube and and blocking the feeding lips. I had to open the mag tube and remove every shell to unjam the gun. Two parts fall out [IMG][/IMG] The o-ring come from one of the orange shell, but the 2 other parts I am not sure. One is probably the part 13 or 14 but the spring I have no idea wich one it can be. Any idea? Btw, I run the gun a bit this week and I had no jams!!?? LOL thanks for the help |
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May 25th, 2015, 22:21 | #40 |
willing to perform services in a dark alley that may or may not leave you satisfied for a title. GFE = 1, looks = 2, BBFS for an extra $50.
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I don't own one but by the way you explained it I suspect it is #66 & #67 for the shell elevator, or #78 & #79 for the shell extractor.
Edit: could be #13 & #14 like you think. Last edited by localfreerider; May 25th, 2015 at 22:25.. |
May 25th, 2015, 23:04 | #41 |
Green Synergy
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Short of your extractor exploding, it's not that spring. It's 13/14 - they fall out easy when disassembling one of these. Of note is disassembly is the only option for fixing this jam- Remington modified the design years ago to allow the action to still cycle. On older models, you have to depress the shell latch and slam the buttstock into the ground to unjam it in a combat situation.
Obviously the latter is not an option for airsoft. |
May 26th, 2015, 00:55 | #42 |
The double feed is causing by the latch and front end tube arm not cooperate to each other and release too soon, and allow two shells push into chamber got struck.
When I was working on Tanaka M870, replacing two latches by RS parts, I had to fine tune the front end tube arms and latches to make sure they cooperated to each other, get release shell then stop the next one in the right timing. Or even had to bend the front tip of a latch to make it work the best. Check this out, hope it helps. http://airsoftcanada.com/showpost.ph...28&postcount=2 Parts 13 & 14 are for locking the shell tube cover. The o-ring should be falling from plastic shell That is in front of it holding bb's inside the shell.
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aka Uncle Last edited by N_Force; May 26th, 2015 at 01:15.. |
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May 26th, 2015, 22:19 | #43 |
thanks guys for your quick answer.
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Bookmarks |
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