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#16 |
all good advice guys - and btw, it was Extreme-fire where the fets came from.
I'm going to do two things - buy a couple of good motors, and try a 9.9v battery. One or the other SHOULD do the trick. |
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#17 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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keep in mind these motors were originally designed for 8v and 300fps, so the although new windings will increase the torque significantly, ultimately they're limited by their ability to cool themselves. With the amount of wattage you're putting through a motor at 12.6v and 12-18A, it's not surprising that they heat up like crazy lol
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#18 | |
Quote:
__________________
"Too much Knowledge is Dangerous, not enough is Worse" |
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#19 |
Squid Porn Superstar, I love the tentacles!
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+1 For Tienly
I picked up a GT45000 right before Duy started carrying them... And holy shit I can do 40 RPS and the motor barely gets warm. |
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#20 |
Mr. Silencer
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Most high performance motors will stay cool when running full auto.
The real test is when you try to do a few hundred shots of semi in rapid succession....while pulling an M170. : o) In all honesty though, you don't need a fancy motor like a Tienly or Lonex A1/A2 to pull an M120. Heck, John pulls 400fps springs on EG1000s and VFC stock motors all day long without issue. Last edited by Stealth; March 26th, 2014 at 09:28.. |
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#21 | |
Quote:
I did a break on a old magnum motor and it hit 68 degrees Celsius after 15 minutes of continuous auto. |
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#22 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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pffff
Try running an un-modded magnum on an AB mosfet just on a 7.4 lipo I got about 25 rounds out in semi auto before the mosfet tripped it's breaker and the grip was almost on fire lol |
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#23 | |
Quote:
Sweeeeet ![]()
__________________
"Too much Knowledge is Dangerous, not enough is Worse" |
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