VFC M4 Rail removal help

[chaz]

So, I am looking at making some changes to my VFC M4 Recon starting with the rail, however, its TIGHT.
I have removed the two screws at the bottom of the rail and can get about 1.5 - 2 full turns before it just locks right up.
Do I just keep going with brute force? It's almost like its cross-threaded on there as once I hit that 2 turn mark and I try to turn it "grinds" and super tiny metal bits fell out (once).
Any suggestions would be great as I would rather not screw up my gun

[Stealth]

If the E-series is anything like a standard SR15 Combat Master, you need the URX tool to remove that. The "jamming" is basically you hitting the jam nuts together. I would probably also discontinue whatever you're doing if metal shaving are "falling out"

But even before that, you'll have to remove the flash-hider, washer, 4 screws securing the 2 halves of the rail (might not be applicable as the E-series uses a 1-piece rail), gas block and tube.

[chaz]

The rail is one piece and has 2 hex screws in the bottom that stop it from rotating. Not sure where/how a tool would fit in to remove the rail???

I believe this is all that is under my rail as mine is an E Series.

[Stealth]

I'm not sure as to the function of the hex screws, but this is the URX2 (which your E-series rail is based on) - note 2 jam nuts with notches cut into it.

Look down into the rail - do you have those notches on your barrel nut?

[chaz]

Don't have the gun handy. I will check that out tonight and post back.
Thanks!

[chaz]

I see a nut like the one pictured above. It has two slots on each side for a wrench to fit on. What direction "should" I be turning to take the rail off?

[Stealth]

Referencing your pic above, if there is only a single nut, then you should be able to just spin the rail counterclockwise to free the rail from the nut.

After the rail is removed, you can use a AR15 armorer's tool to remove the barrel nut. Make sure to use a Picatinny rail vise adapter to prevent cracking your upper receiver.

[Stealth]

I imagine the metal bits coming out are as a result of the grub screws cutting into the barrel nut threads and the rail is simply cleaning out those damaged threads.

[chaz]

Thanks Stealth!

I am going to work on getting the other parts I need and then will take another stab at getting this damn thing off.

[cbcsteve]

Necro updating this thread but it is useful info.

I did a search all over online and found there were quite a few people having trouble with VFC M4's ridiculously tight outer barrel nut on some of it's models. I wanted to update this thread since it's been Google Search indexed so other people may find this in the future. I have seen some people almost strip or completely destroy their VFC barrel nut. Other branded M4 AEG are a lot easier to just twist it off but VFC has some glue or locktite that makes it hard to twist off without using Acetone.

The Best Way To Remove VFC Outer Barrel Nut

Use Acetone (nail polish remover). Take the liquid and pour it all around the inside of the barrel nut. Let it sit for a few seconds. Then using a Vise Grip Wrench you should be able to turn and twist it off a lot easier. If it is still stuck pour in some more Acetone.

Without the acetone it will be incredibly hard to twist it off. You may end up damaging your upper receiver. The acetone made it super easy to twist off.

[Desmodus]

^ This. I used a combo of acetone, heating the barrel nut with a blowdryer and an armourer's wrench to get it off.