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High Torque and High speed.

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Old May 15th, 2011, 18:40   #1
Rechkalov7
 
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High Torque and High speed.

Hi,


i recently broked 2 gears inside a gearbox after missaligning the piston inside the gearbox case. I would like to know if i can install a high speed gear set inside a jing gong m-4 s-system without breaking something else. The thing is i can't seem to find any kit that doesn't say high speed or high torque or 200% or 300% torque or 16:1 ratio . Could someone help me clarify facts about gears?






Thanks.
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Old May 18th, 2011, 14:13   #2
ILLusion
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What spring are you pulling?

What battery are you using?
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Old May 18th, 2011, 14:21   #3
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Usually your piston breaks first, are your piston teeth full mental..?

Well, you have to understand the high speed and high torque gears are meant for different reasons.
High speed gears are meant to give an airsoft gun a high ROF while high torque gears are just meant to pull a stronger spring.

So, if you had a M130 spring, I would go with high torque gears, because it would go along with high torque motors and a Li-Poly battery. Anything below M120, high speed should work fine. Just don't hold full auto for 10 seconds. lol.

Here a whole thread http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=111990
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Old May 19th, 2011, 01:08   #4
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Hi,


i'm using the spring that comes with the rifle so it's less than m120. It's a jing gong s-system gearbox and everything is oob.
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Old May 19th, 2011, 01:38   #5
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hmm i dunno about that, stock ACM guns usually shoot pretty hot from what i experienced, if not then i dunno but in hong kong Majority of the stock ACM guns shoot at least 430 FPS - 480 FPS on .20s
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Old May 19th, 2011, 12:54   #6
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Basic rule of thumb:

If you want any sort of longevity in your system, do not use any spring that shoots hotter than an M100 equivalent with high speed gears. Doing otherwise will create huge current arcs between the trigger plates (you can actually burn holes in the plates), cause excess wear to the gear train, and/or prematurely wear out your motor and battery.
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Old May 19th, 2011, 14:34   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILLusion View Post
Basic rule of thumb:

If you want any sort of longevity in your system, do not use any spring that shoots hotter than an M100 equivalent with high speed gears. Doing otherwise will create huge current arcs between the trigger plates (you can actually burn holes in the plates), cause excess wear to the gear train, and/or prematurely wear out your motor and battery.
Great to know, is there any precautions when using high torque gears?
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Old May 19th, 2011, 14:41   #8
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Personally, I like using both high torque gears and motors, regardless of the spring I'm pulling. I like having low latency and high trigger response. When I squeeze the trigger on most of my customs guns, the shot is almost as snappy as if I was shooting a GBB / real steel. There's very little motor windup time. I don't care about high speed / high ROF.
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Old May 19th, 2011, 14:42   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rechkalov7 View Post
Hi,


i'm using the spring that comes with the rifle so it's less than m120. It's a jing gong s-system gearbox and everything is oob.
That is an M130... almost all clones have M120-M130 springs in them.

If you don't want to run an insanely fast/stupidly weak gun, go high torque. Not Ultra or Infinite, just High Torque.

Then change that spring to a M110 or M120 (Modify is great) since it will be softer for the same FPS output.

If you still have that stock piston, change for a Modify "Ultra speed". It is not faster than normal, just has 5-6 metal tooth and the second to last teeth removed.

While you are at it, change theses cheap bushings for something decent. Prometheus or Modify are great and do a proper shim job.

You should have a very reliable rifle after that.
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Old May 21st, 2011, 22:47   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILLusion View Post
Basic rule of thumb:

Doing otherwise will create huge current arcs between the trigger plates (you can actually burn holes in the plates)
Are you talking about the contacts on the trigger assembly? B/c installing a mosfet eliminates the arcing issue.
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Old May 24th, 2011, 00:32   #11
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Hi,


kos-mos, this is exactly what i did. I bought shims and bushings. The only thing i find hard is to close the gearbox after putting the spring in. I din't know clones had m130's inside. No wonder why it's so hard to compress in. I guess it's the way they found to add fps to compensate for low quality intenals.





Thanks.
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Old May 25th, 2011, 16:11   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiru View Post
...is there any precautions when using high torque gears?
Not really. Just make sure you match torque levels with your required spring. ie, if you're trying to pull an M170 spring, a double torque, triple torque, or even Super torque gear set wouldn't be enough. You would need to go up to Max Torque, Infinity Torque, or other equivalent "highest torque" gearsets to match a spring that heavy. But in your situation, a Prometheus Double Torque, Modify 21.6 Torque, or Systema Torque Up would be sufficient.

Going higher torque than your spring needs does not do anything except for put a bigger dent in your wallet. Your battery will last a bit longer as well.

Everything else behind the drivetrain (motor, battery, etc) comes AFTER you upgrade the gear set to match. Otherwise, doing it the other way will still present problems over time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by THe_Silencer View Post
Are you talking about the contacts on the trigger assembly? B/c installing a mosfet eliminates the arcing issue.
Yes, I'm referring to the contacts on the trigger assembly, and you are correct, installing a mosfet eliminates the arcing issue. However, installing a mosfet does not correct any of the other issues. It can actually exacerbate the issue if it's one of the computerized trigger control mosfets when you fire in full auto.
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