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Old June 1st, 2010, 21:47   #31
RacingManiac
 
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VFC one is a cool toy...zero-able(though may not hold it with GBBR), works decent as a torch.....good for GBBR with no need for battery box
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Old June 2nd, 2010, 14:56   #32
ILLusion
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turok_t View Post
Hey guys, I got the VFC PEQ15 box with functional laser and light. What kind of rechargable CR123A batteries would you recommend? I dont want to blow up my box
You can use the RCR123's, which have a constant average voltage up to 3.7v, and peak at 4.25v. This will yield a brighter light output.
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Old June 2nd, 2010, 17:47   #33
Shirley
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Looks like it's a common problem. Turoks disconnected pressure bad connecter problem happened to mine. Shit is so delicate, like China made. I wonder if you cna get RS pressure switch to fit this.
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Old June 2nd, 2010, 20:14   #34
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Originally Posted by Mr.Hitman View Post
Looks like it's a common problem. Turoks disconnected pressure bad connecter problem happened to mine. Shit is so delicate, like China made. I wonder if you cna get RS pressure switch to fit this.
Yup, when I took it out of the box, it was loose already. I knew it would eventually come loose with handling. The black sheath around the cable doesn't go completely in the hole, and if you bend the black sheath, you can see the red and white wires it houses. These wires connect fragilely with the plug.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ILLusion View Post
You can use the RCR123's, which have a constant average voltage up to 3.7v, and peak at 4.25v. This will yield a brighter light output.
Im just going to use the rechargable ones as recommended in the instruction manual- 16340 RCR123A 3.7V or 17335 RCR123A 3V. I'll probably use the latter one, I dont want to risk frying my unit with increase voltage.

Last edited by turok_t; June 2nd, 2010 at 20:17..
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Old June 2nd, 2010, 22:41   #35
Shirley
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Originally Posted by turok_t View Post
Yup, when I took it out of the box, it was loose already. I knew it would eventually come loose with handling. The black sheath around the cable doesn't go completely in the hole, and if you bend the black sheath, you can see the red and white wires it houses. These wires connect fragilely with the plug.



Im just going to use the rechargable ones as recommended in the instruction manual- 16340 RCR123A 3.7V or 17335 RCR123A 3V. I'll probably use the latter one, I dont want to risk frying my unit with increase voltage.
How did you fix the switch with the cables disconnected and a pain to get it into the rubber housing??
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Old June 3rd, 2010, 02:25   #36
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How did you fix the switch with the cables disconnected and a pain to get it into the rubber housing??
You can't insert the 2 wires back in the small hole and angle 90 degrees to be pulled out on the other end. What you have to do is get a sharp exacto knife, and cut the rubber housing sagitally 1/2 way so that you have access to the inner chamber of the rubber housing. Solder the 2 wires back to the plug, use some sort of electrical tape to cover the exposed contacts (since the solder ends are in close proximity and you dont want them to contact). I then you cyanoacrylate glue with accelerate to seal back the 2 halves.
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Old June 5th, 2010, 02:38   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turok_t View Post
Im just going to use the rechargable ones as recommended in the instruction manual- 16340 RCR123A 3.7V or 17335 RCR123A 3V. I'll probably use the latter one, I dont want to risk frying my unit with increase voltage.
The bulb is actually spec'ed to handle 4.5v just fine. Your unit won't get fried. You do risk increased wear though, but if that was really a concern, you should probably run this at 1.5v. You will barely see the light, but I'm sure it'll last a billion hours.

I don't have mine in front of me right now, but I believe the peak spec was even higher than 4.5v. Your call. The option is given to you. RCR123A's at 3.7v are a bit harder to find than standard 3.0v CR123A's.

3.0v rechargeables are the hardest to find, but do exist.

Last edited by ILLusion; June 5th, 2010 at 02:41..
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Old June 5th, 2010, 03:42   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILLusion View Post
The bulb is actually spec'ed to handle 4.5v just fine. Your unit won't get fried. You do risk increased wear though, but if that was really a concern, you should probably run this at 1.5v. You will barely see the light, but I'm sure it'll last a billion hours.

I don't have mine in front of me right now, but I believe the peak spec was even higher than 4.5v. Your call. The option is given to you. RCR123A's at 3.7v are a bit harder to find than standard 3.0v CR123A's.

3.0v rechargeables are the hardest to find, but do exist.
Dont know about the quality of these batteries, but check this out:

16340: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.29066
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3273

17335: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4419
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Old June 16th, 2010, 03:30   #39
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http://www.ebairsoft.com/anpeq15-las...ck-p-3182.html

I got my replica yesterday and it is very sturdy and the laser is adjustable (unlike the Battle Axe version linked at the beginning of this thread). The light is decently bright, I'm not sure how bright the VFC version is even but this will easily do the job indoors.
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