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Old August 10th, 2010, 05:23   #16
yuhaoyang
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modify is great, but in the same price bracket as prometheus... so eeh, I'd take the latter.
remember if you buy the ARS cylinderhead you need to trim the 2nd tooth off the piston.
also ARS is good for an ultra quiet gun, and seals good (about the same as systema/prometheus parts), but if you bought it as a (gearbox saver), I find that edmonton field limits aren't really high enough that you need to be worried.
I've been running at 400fps for about 30k rds in a systema shell, and it looks like new.
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Old August 10th, 2010, 13:58   #17
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Those bushing with the "oil grooves" are the problem even if it's installed correctly. Since it's a hard metal with a groove, it "can" wear away your axle. Use them but keep a close eye on the bevel gear's axle and the others. Since that bevel gear spins the fastest, that might be the first to go. I would buy a solid set as a backup. Good luck man.

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Items already shipped.
I found a little info pertaining Directly to a TM v2 box that states
"Warning severe mechbox damage can occur if the bushings are not seated correctly.
to prevent damage ensure the bearings are seated fully. An audiable click will be heard when the Bushing is properly seated" "always shim as nesessary to preven gear wobble and premature wear."

so Im a test subject again hahaha.
Thanks HK, just hit a little late
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Old August 10th, 2010, 15:09   #18
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Thanks for the Info and Direction.
I saw the one ARS set up that mentioned having to Trim off 1 tooth, but I thought i had grabbed a Non modification vesion. OK that said, Is it due to the Thinkness of the Sorbo pad that causes the Piston to (i assume) sit further back casuing the power gear to Bind at the point when the gear has drawn the Piston all the way back?

Do you have a photo of this Piston Modification.
Or would it be a better idea to Grab the Modify piston (already modified ) and not hack up my Stock TM pistion?
Would it be a better idea all around to just drop in the Spring and guide and no worry about the Piston head and sorbo pads untill i have a proper piston?


Back to bushings for a moment. HK when you said a solid bushing..
do you mean SOLID SOLID no moving bits at all?
wouldnt that casue absurd heat, i would think at the minimum a bearing unit.

thanks again Folks
Carm
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Old August 10th, 2010, 15:13   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScooterVauto View Post
Thanks for the Info and Direction.
I saw the one ARS set up that mentioned having to Trim off 1 tooth, but I thought i had grabbed a Non modification vesion. OK that said, Is it due to the Thinkness of the Sorbo pad that causes the Piston to (i assume) sit further back casuing the power gear to Bind at the point when the gear has drawn the Piston all the way back?

Do you have a photo of this Piston Modification.
Or would it be a better idea to Grab the Modify piston (already modified ) and not hack up my Stock TM pistion?
Would it be a better idea all around to just drop in the Spring and guide and no worry about the Piston head and sorbo pads untill i have a proper piston?


Back to bushings for a moment. HK when you said a solid bushing..
do you mean SOLID SOLID no moving bits at all?
wouldnt that casue absurd heat, i would think at the minimum a bearing unit.

thanks again Folks
Carm
1. When you get your parts...put the piston in and push it right up against the cylinder head. Then slowly/gently spin the sector gear around...you'll see where it hits the piston tooth. Shave that tooth down until it clears.

2. by solid bushings, I think he mean not bearing and not bushings with oil grooves/channels (little rings cut into them). He meant plain old solid metal bushings.
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Old August 10th, 2010, 15:23   #20
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For solid, I mean a metal bushing without any "oil grooves" or anything else. The grease will help heat from building up too much but if your bushings and axle are smooth, heat shouldn't be a problem. I've seen some bevel gears chewed up really bad from "oil grooved" bushings. Using bearings will be the best but only with larger bushings (8mm +). Since you have 6mm holes, stick with solid bushing.
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Old August 10th, 2010, 15:23   #21
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gears don't spin fast enough to generate said heat.
if you have 7mm, and get systema or prometheus bearings, they will still last forever and ever and ever and ever.
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Old August 10th, 2010, 15:35   #22
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gears don't spin fast enough to generate said heat.
if you have 7mm, and get systema or prometheus bearings, they will still last forever and ever and ever and ever.
Phht. Kanzen ftw
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Old August 10th, 2010, 15:43   #23
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actually, yes.
If you can find a set that is.
anyways, for canadian general field fps (~350-425), the advantages of hybrid ceramic bearings are negligible.
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Old August 10th, 2010, 19:22   #24
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my mistake on the springs.

For seating bushings properly, jugglez sells a bushing press. Very handy. Gets it right every time.
The sorbo pad will take up some cylinder volume and you'll lose about 10-20 fps.
I haven't found a need to adjust the piston or teeth to compensate for it yet after putting them in both v2 and v3 guns.
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Old August 10th, 2010, 22:07   #25
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waaaa i cant find solid bushings at depot or parts waaaaaa
once the parts arrive, I'll take the New bushings and head over to
commercial bearing hahahahha Gimme 6mm solids please hahahahaha
anyone wanna by a set of oil grooved bushings hahahahaha

I'll take it 1 step at a time.
first .. wait for parts.. this time tomorrow tear open a mechbox (might do it tonight to have it clean and ready for tomorrow)
thanks again everyone.
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Old August 14th, 2010, 17:31   #26
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Hello everyone
so the parts arrived


I didnt use the spray grease, I got a little bottle of High grade Lithum (the brown stuff)

whoop ok so mechbox had teardown of the m733 directly hahah EXCELLENT

I did the mechbox upgrades but didnt add the cylinder head sorbo
so i didnt need to modify my piston body

(Thinking about installing it into Cylinder of the VSR as this unit has a hole int the middle -dear liza dear liza -- (just a thought)
ok so did some YouTube- Chrono and cans M733 style before installing the 603, its slick, fast and hard hitting.

I love the fact that i installed the Promethius 6.03 433mm tight bore in less then 15 minutes (8 of that was fighting with the buffer tube screw hahahha)

in
but as you can see its a little long


ssoooooo i borrowed a HK 100 mm silencer and bought a version 1 TM Tracer ($40) I LOVE THE FORUMS hahah
and was really impressed by the look...

HK Silencer

TM V1 Tracer

Obviously the Tracer is rendered useless due to the barrel lenght passed the Optical sensor. but it looks slick

I'll do a chrono and cans this afternoon
I adore my M733 -- get one as your first AEG and you'll have quality and a way to learn the ins and outs of your rifle as there are videos and tutorials all over dealing directly with the tm m733..

Have a super weekend folks
SV
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A single Light is all one needs to find their way through the darkness, But a single BB is all you need to bring it on!
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Last edited by ScooterVauto; August 14th, 2010 at 17:46..
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Old August 15th, 2010, 19:19   #27
Rabbit
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Did you end up using the oil channel bushings?

I picked up a pack myself on a typical noob impulse buy. I figure they're better than the stock TM nylon's anyhow.
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Old August 15th, 2010, 19:37   #28
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yup they are in. i have dumped about 5x 100 rd mags through so far.
I have a promethius 135 spring coming so i might drop it in for a little testing and at the same time I'll clean and inspect the Axles and bearings.
I'll let you know if i see any wear
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Old August 15th, 2010, 21:29   #29
Rabbit
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What kind of FPS did you get with that 110 spring?
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Old August 15th, 2010, 22:40   #30
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i just did a chrono test and the 110 spring with the 433mm 603 Promethius
I think is up around 340. (Havent done the math yet Very soon a new Chrono and Cans Video)
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