October 12th, 2009, 05:13 | #1 |
Herr ScheißeLiebhaber
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A couple questions
I'm looking to get into airsoft pretty soon and I had a couple questions. I've searched for it but I couldn't find anything.
I was wondering if it's OK to airsoft in the cold? Will anything inside the gun crack from the temperature? I've seen a few things that suggest that it might but I want to know for sure before I wreck a gun. And if so, are there upgrades that I could get that would stop it? I'm looking to buy a G&G and I know their mostly metal, but would it be ok? Thanks for your help, Jeff |
October 12th, 2009, 05:30 | #2 | |
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October 12th, 2009, 05:32 | #3 |
Official ASC "Dumb Ass"
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propane becomes thinner at lower temps, making most gbb's pretty useless, aeg's are fine but the batteries will run down alot faster
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October 12th, 2009, 07:03 | #4 |
Depending on how cold it is, how much your gun shoots at and how much you shoot, the chance of cracking your mechbox increases in colder temps. As well as other damage that could result in catastrophic failure of the AEG. Winter is best for indoor games or springers.
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October 12th, 2009, 11:37 | #5 |
You know what.... I just have a feeling.... The mods should check the IP of this IndianaJohns user.
I wouldn't actually play in less than -5C. There is more wear and such on the mechbox and things are a lot more likely to break. With GBB's the FPS drops significantly relative to temperature, gas efficiency goes down a lot and it also puts more wear on the gun (just because of the cold). It doesn't help that because of the liquid propane turning into gas when a BB is shot that the temperature in the mag drops even more resulting in even more loss in FPS and more wear. If you're going to game with a GBB it's advised to keep the mags as warm as possible and that usually means sticking them inside your BDU jacket until you're ready to use them, at least that way it's relatively warmer and not as bad to use.
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October 12th, 2009, 11:48 | #6 | ||
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@OP, Although your AEG will still work in the cold, the colder it is, the higher you chance of cracking your mechbox
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October 12th, 2009, 11:56 | #7 |
Art affectionado
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Who are we thinking this is?
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October 12th, 2009, 12:10 | #8 | |
Yea, I'd definetly say -5C to -10C is the cutoff limit. You'll generally want a large Ni-Cad pack as well if it's cold, or at least several small ones if possible.
The other thing to consider is proper gear. You have to dress properly in layers to play in the cold -once you start running around, you don't want to work up too much of a sweat otherwise you'll freeze when you stop.
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October 12th, 2009, 14:56 | #9 |
Herr ScheißeLiebhaber
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K, thanks. I'm probably gonna get an AEG. That's definitely good to know though.
And you can check my IP if you want to... I'm not really too sure who you think I am? |
October 12th, 2009, 15:04 | #10 | |
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It's not the content of your post, it's just the join date and for some reason this deja vu feeling that I'm getting (one of those truthiness gut feeling things). You do however at least have proper grammar down so lets just let this be water under the bridge. I don't want to be alienating people from the community when they seem like good people and are willing to actually learn. EDIT: To be constructive and not just throw random banter, the AEG is a good choice now the hard part is picking the model (M4, AK, G36, etc.). The only real difference between different gun models is the mechbox versions (M4/MP5 V2 and AK V3). Mostly it's shape of the mechbox however there are some improvements between different versions supposedly. I've heard V3's are more hardy and less prone to breaking in cold (you still don't want to play with it in the cold though), however with the V2 there are a plethora of parts available from many different manufacturers (almost the same for V3 specific parts however I seem to have a hard time finding certain ones which leads me to believe they're less available however they are out there). Either one you can't go wrong. What you can go wrong with however is getting something like a P90 (V6), FAMAS (V1), or M14 (V7) since the versions aren't really standard and as such are less widespread and harder to find/work with.
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ಠ_ಠLess QQ more Pew Pew READY TO >> RACE Last edited by L473ncy; October 12th, 2009 at 15:11.. |
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October 12th, 2009, 15:12 | #11 | ||
Herr ScheißeLiebhaber
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Also, do you guys know if paintball fields will usually let airsofters in if we've got enough guys for our own game? I know there's a paintball field just outside Sylvan Lake that I've been to but do you know of any airsoft places around the Red Deer area? Edit: Quote:
I was looking at one of these I think, I mean, I want to actually see one before I buy it but these are just a couple ideas: http://www.canadianairgunsupply.com/...g-m16-ris.html http://www.canadianairgunsupply.com/...-spetsnaz.html http://www.canadianairgunsupply.com/...-advanced.html I don't think I would get the M4 because of the battery not being in the stock, I've read that it's a pain in the arse to put into that front part because of how small a fit it is. Last edited by Indianajohns; October 12th, 2009 at 15:22.. |
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October 12th, 2009, 15:37 | #12 | |
Most types of AEG's use commend mechboxes. For example, M4/M16-based, MP5-based, and G3 based use Version 2. AK-based, G36-based, AUG, and SiGs (or at least the 553) use Version 3 mechbox. P90's and Thompsons use a Version 6. This is generally independent of the manufacture, although some companies like ICS use proprietatry mechboxes.
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October 12th, 2009, 15:49 | #13 |
Some paintball fields will let you. It's really up to the owner though. However paintballers do usually come first cause that's what brings in the money (selling paint, HPA/CO2 refills, and such, whereas with airsofters it's just the field fee that they're making money from).
I've heard some teams help and volunteer to fix and improve the fields in return for the owner letting them play at that venue. Red deer is kind of in the middle of Edmonton/Calgary isn't it.... There is a team in Red Deer RAAT I think it is. Other than that JOC, and EAR are some of the big clubs in the province.
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October 12th, 2009, 16:06 | #14 | ||
Herr ScheißeLiebhaber
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And this is by far THE most helpful forum I've ever been on. You guys know your stuff. |
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October 12th, 2009, 16:53 | #15 |
Again I'm sorry about accusing you of things. It's just this week has kind of been bad for trolls and assholes who "just don't get it" (that they should probably listen to the people who have the experience). Heck I wouldn't call myself experienced either. I just sling pieces of plastic at other people, I let my gundoc do repair work for me. Not to mention the time that you joined and posted was pretty much right after some noob who wouldn't listen and was trolling got banned. So again sorry.
I'm sure there was a Mechbox FAQ in the FAQ section but it's really cluttered and theres a lot of information there. Anyways, this is from what I understand about the mechboxes so information may not be entirely accurate and is pretty generalized so without further ado, V1: This is the first electric mechbox that came out. As such guns like the FAMAS (one of the first Electric airsoft guns) use it. Supposedly they're prone to breaking (as it's the first generation and iteration of what would become the "AEG revolution") and harder to find replacement parts for. Note: before "classic" airsoft guns were pretty much the same as paintball guns (except sling 6mm BB's) in that they were powered with an external tank and line. Electric guns came out and made it more realistic, no external line/tank, it was all contained in the gun itself, the battery powers the motor, which spins the gears which pulls back the spring and when it releases pushes the piston forward transferring energy into the BB which shoots out the barrel. See? All contained in the gun itself. The new ones are GBBR's and are pretty new. I'd like to try one out but I want to see if theres any problems before I jump on the GBBR boat. It's most likely the next evolution in airsoft since you get a "blow back" action however I'll stick to my AEG for now. V2: This is by far probably the most common mechbox. M4/16 and MP5's are the main ones that use this. I believe it's the second iteration of the electric gearbox (as it's a V2). Really common and a lot of problems from the V1 got fixed. There are many aftermarket parts available and many companies to choose from (Deep Fire, Guarder, Prometheus, SystemA, Modify, etc.) Honestly I don't see this going any time soon. Lots of gundocs who know it and have/can work on it V3: Probably the second most common version. AK, and G36 are the big models that use this version. Supposedly more hardy to cold stress however it's still not advised to play with one of these out in the cold. Lots of aftermarket parts and, again lots of gundocs who know it and have/can work on it. V4: PSG-1, that's all I know pretty much, very uncommon especially to find one in Canada. V5: I don't think any guns use this, the number may have been skipped. V6: P90 and Thompson. Not very common however they're REALLY durable and are very unlikely to break on you. Hard to find a P90 or Thompson though although there are a few up in the Classifieds from time to time. V7: M14. Really hard to work on unless you have lots of manual dexterity or 4 hands. Haven't heard much about it other than that though. Hope this helps you out. Just remember this. Upgrade the player not the gun. You could have the best gear available but still get whooped by other people. Also don't get a clearsoft from Walmart or Canadian Tire or whatever they're crap. Kind of hypocritical to my last sentence right? Well there is a minimum investment required (not to mention Walmart crap is going to most likely break on you in the first ~1000 rounds or so and even then uses non standard parts so you can't repair). For me I say the minimum investments is about $500 for baseline gear (BDU's, mask, gun, a few mags and some sort of vest or chestrig to hold your stuff) then another $400-500 over the next few months (killrag, radio, more mags, basically "extras"). It's OK to borrow your first few games but at least try to make an effort to get most of the gear required. It's one thing to show up and say "I forgot my mask at home" or "I need to borrow one or two mags" but it's an entirely different ballpark if you come without anything and basically need everyone to share their, mags, extra mask, etc. However don't push it too much don't come to every game and say "I need to borrow your mask again". After a while you should get an idea if you like the sport or not and either pack up and sell your gun (if it's a high quality one (TM, CA, G&P etc.) it will retain a lot of value (eg. you buy for $550 sell it for $525) however if it's a Kraken or something like that the value depreciates A LOT eg. buy for $200 sell for ~$120)) Another option is going to a surplus store and picking up BDU's and ask on your local club forum if someone is willing to rent you a gun/equipment for the day. You don't have to buy/use a crap gun and get to enjoy a high quality working gun (hopefully), AND you can get a taste of what the sport is about (try before you buy). EDIT: Wow.... that's probably one of the longest posts I've ever made.
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ಠ_ಠLess QQ more Pew Pew READY TO >> RACE Last edited by L473ncy; October 12th, 2009 at 16:56.. |
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