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February 21st, 2009, 16:50 | #1 |
KWA M4A1 not firing
I bought a KWA M4a1 last week and ive shot about 2,500 rounds through it. This morning when i was shooting it, it suddenly died on me. I thought maybe the battery was dead, and i charged it. It still didnt work, so i tried a different battery, still no response.
I think that the wiring is messed up or something, but i dont know anything about this kind of thing. I pull down the trigger and i dont hear a thing. Can someone help me out? PS. I run a 11.1 lipo battery, if that matters. |
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February 21st, 2009, 16:56 | #2 |
Did you check the fuse ?
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February 21st, 2009, 16:58 | #3 |
I dont know anything about maintinance or internals, or the fuse. How do i check if its the fuse?
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February 21st, 2009, 17:03 | #4 |
Get thyself to a gun doctor.
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February 21st, 2009, 17:04 | #5 |
does anyone know a good gun doctor in the calgary area?
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February 21st, 2009, 17:09 | #6 |
The fuse should be easy to check, and that's usually the culprit when the gun stops shooting. The fuse should be in the little plastic "bulb" that's near the battery connection. Pop that open and see if the fuse is blown.
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February 21st, 2009, 17:10 | #7 |
If you look where the battery is connected, should be a black cylinder attached to the wire. Pop that open and inside you'll see a glass cylinder with a metal piece connecting the two ends. Check to see that its still in one piece and not broken. If its broken...new fuse, if not, get a gun doc . Hope that makes sense...
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February 21st, 2009, 17:22 | #8 | |
Quote:
Thanks |
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February 21st, 2009, 19:16 | #9 |
even if the fuse is blown it will still be in one piece you have to look at the little filament inside the fuse, it must be intact!
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member of fire team NOM. my other regular forum: www.toyotanation.com / gen3,gen4 camry |
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February 21st, 2009, 19:47 | #10 |
Now to know if the fuse is damage... Remove it and connect the two brass connectors together.
Fire to see what happend. If it shoots well you know its the fuse. I actually set up one of my G&P like that. No fuse and I get a better trigger response. Works for me but I don't know about LI-PO set-ups so carefull whit those.
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February 21st, 2009, 20:31 | #11 | |
Quote:
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Favorite Quote: That would make too much sense |
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February 21st, 2009, 20:32 | #12 | |
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What could be wrong with it? |
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February 21st, 2009, 20:52 | #13 | ||
I don't know any of the gun docs in calgary offhand, but I believe there is still a list up on the forums. not sure how recently it was updated though.
edit: it was even stickied http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=72809
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February 21st, 2009, 21:00 | #14 |
the motor plate may be to tight
Just a thought
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Combat is a difficult situation, Don't tickle Smash. |
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February 21st, 2009, 21:01 | #15 |
A fuse is in the gun to protect primarily the motor, but is does a pretty good job of prtecting the rest of the system. Removing a fuse to test electrical devices is STUPID, STUPID, STUPID!!!! It's there for a reason. Removing your only method of protection even for a test can be expensive and potentially disastrous.
If you want to test draw, spend the money, buy proper test equipment, get fuses with increasing ratings, or you risk spending your money on replacement parts. Fuses are not resistors (except current limiting fuses which aren't in AEGs), they do not limit current or affect ROF. Their connection points may do this however. If you find voltage drop across a fuse, that means you've exceeded it's rating and it's destruction is imminent. For the OP, you can also check your motor connections. One of the terminals may have become disconnected or broken. You may also have a motor failure, switch failure, selector failure. Start with what you feel comfortable with, and if your problem persists, get ahold of someone locally. You have posted up on JOC already, and that's your best bet.
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Age verifier Northern Alberta Democracy is two wolves and a sheep discussing what's for dinner. Freedom is the wolves limping away while the sheep reloads. Never confuse freedom with democracy. |
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