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February 19th, 2007, 21:46 | #1 |
Refurbishing/Cleaning Electric AEG motors
Question:
Can the brushes in an EG1000 motor be replaced or cleaned? You can remove them from the top of the motor on either side, is there a way to properly clean or replace these brushes if they are worn? I have 3 EG 1000 motors in varying degrees of age and use. The one I used all of last year seems to have a lot of black "carbon" dust in the motor end and the brushes seem quite worn. The motor is slowing down, I tried one of the other motors and the rate of fire went up. This is the most recent or new of the 3 motors, so burning it out seems premature. If I clean the brushes of this carbon dust will the motor operate at normal levels again? I know motors can burn out, but I am not sure if this is the same as brushes wearing out. If anyone can explain to me the mysteries of electric motors and if there is a proper cleaning routine I would appreciate it. Thanks MD
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February 19th, 2007, 22:52 | #2 |
Replacing the brushes may help. Cleaning the carbon off the stator may help (it's what the brushes sit on). It likely won't. If the motor is well used, the permanent magnet inside is likely getting worn, as are the bearings, seals etc. Moving parts wear out. You can make them work a little longer, but eventually they'll need replaced.
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February 19th, 2007, 23:06 | #3 |
Delierious Designer of Dastardly Detonations
Join Date: Dec 2001
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You could give the commutator a clean with something soft like a Q tip. Use something non corrosive. An aerosol electrical contact cleaner from RadioSchlock would probably be fine. Keep track of how your brushes were oriented before removing them. Mark which side was the top side and which one was positive before removing them. AEG motors only rotate one way so the way the brushes break in is specific.
You can also clean the brushes with something soft. Unless you're well versed in motor trueing (ask an R/C car fanatic) I do not recommend getting into any cleaning with abrasives or cutting tools. A scratched comm can really make a mess of performance.
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February 19th, 2007, 23:29 | #4 |
Thanks Guys
Appreciate the input.
MD
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WOLFPACK U-96 Cry Havoc, Let slip the Dogs of War! "Opportunities multiply as they are seized." - Sun Tzu, The Art of War |
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February 20th, 2007, 05:50 | #5 |
Dammit, that's what I meant. Stupid early onset Alzsomethingorother.
A great tool for cleaning electrical contacts is a plain old pink pearl eraser. They work well. For badly corroded contacts those old typewriter/pen erasers that come like a China marker are awesome. But like MadMax mentioned, they are somewhat abrasive so great care must be taken when using them.
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"Anyone with a name like Amanishourbariki should give a few letters to the poor Ng family." - Snarfangel, Fark.com |
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February 20th, 2007, 10:26 | #6 |
I suggest taking it to a hobby shop and they can do it for you for a price
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YANHCHAN'S AIRSMITHING: AEG repair/Tune up/Upgrades V2/V3 mechboxes, rewiring/reconnecting. Ask not what your country can do for you; ask what you can do for your country ~John F. Kennedy |
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February 20th, 2007, 10:33 | #7 |
My buddy has raced RC cars for several years and bought a comm lathe. We disassembled several motors and modified them for better performance - cut the comm, soldered the windings to the comm (if possible), and soldered the brush braids to the end bell. Efficiency increased by some 60%. The Classic Army motors are actually far superior to TM motors in that you can disassemble them completely, they have multiple bearings, and the pinion gear is held on with a set screw rather than pressed on. TM motors are essentially permanently tabbed up and are not meant to be user serviced.
Register at http://www.mb-airsoft.com and check the general section for a post by Gundam2000 on this topic, the results are all in there. |
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February 20th, 2007, 12:27 | #8 | |
Delierious Designer of Dastardly Detonations
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: in the dark recesses of some metal chip filled machine shop
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Quote:
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February 21st, 2007, 00:18 | #9 |
I use to race R/C stuff heavy for the past 20 years or so and we use to use a Jewlers lathe too re-cut the Comm.but the lathes and bits are kinda pricey as far as Airsoft goes.And it was more for the modified motors that you could sevice.It was against the rules by the Rora rules to mess with stock motors.Just go down to a local R/C shop and ask for a Comm. stick and Motor spray.I usally take a small file to the edge of the brushs an remove the sharp edge then take the round end of the Comm.stick to the Brush and use the other end of the Comm. stick through the Brush hood on the motor and clean the Comm. and spray out the motor with motor spray.You could mess with timming on the motor by advacing or reatrding the endbell,but I would not bother with these motors.Hope it helps,Cheers!
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February 21st, 2007, 00:32 | #10 |
because of the way they are built i don't think you can change timing on these. 2 flat sides...
Best thing I found is made by Trinity. Here is a link: http://www.teamtrinity.com/shop/maintenance/motor.html Last one from bottom.. Go to a hobbyshop and ask the guy for that. Then, open your motor carefully and clean it. Gently brush it with the com.pen. An other thing to have is some high grade silicon oil. I use some from Trinity, called "Royal Oil". It's pink and comes in a small plastic bottle with a needle tip. Good to have a drop on the bushings/bearings of the motor. Good for mechbox or propane adaptors lubing too. *edit* Forgot about the brushes. If they are signyficantly short (I think 5mm or less on these) They should be changed. I will look for some rechange tomorow... probably made by Parma for slotcar motors... *re-edit* If you need anything and can't have acces to a hobbyshop, send me a PM...I know a guy who actually as one... used to work there....still racing there... Last edited by Kos-Mos; February 21st, 2007 at 00:35.. |
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February 21st, 2007, 07:46 | #11 |
Very true,but even with the stock Trinity motors we use to take a flat head screwdriver insert it into the tab area that locked the endbell in place and give it a bang on the edge of the table just to advance the timing by about 3-5 dege. lol.It was like the guy's in Nascar,every little edge to win lol.Please do not try this with Airsoft motors! It's not worth buggering up your motor.Cheers!
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February 21st, 2007, 09:05 | #12 |
Thanks Again
This is some good information for the layman, learning something new everyday.
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WOLFPACK U-96 Cry Havoc, Let slip the Dogs of War! "Opportunities multiply as they are seized." - Sun Tzu, The Art of War |
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February 21st, 2007, 14:33 | #13 |
Delierious Designer of Dastardly Detonations
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: in the dark recesses of some metal chip filled machine shop
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If you're gutsy, you could probably crank the comm on an airsoft motor to change timing.
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February 21st, 2007, 18:08 | #14 |
Works awesome now!
Just used some Magnum Electric RC motor cleaner and lightly polished/cleaned the comm stick and brushes with the specific tools of the trade from an RC hobby shop.
The cleaner took off all the old carbon out the bottom after spraying it in and the comm stick is back to looking new. It hauls ass again especially with 10.4 battery. Rate of fire is back to normal, normal meaning fast! Thanks for everyone's help MD
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WOLFPACK U-96 Cry Havoc, Let slip the Dogs of War! "Opportunities multiply as they are seized." - Sun Tzu, The Art of War |
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