I need a V2 gearbox to with stand an SP130

[pinoyboy]

Hi, I'm looking to have around 450fps from my m4, and I need some suggestions as to what gearbox will hold up to the stress. Has anyone had experience with the systema gearbox shells? If you have, or any other personal experience with other brand V2 reinforced gearboxes, let me know. Thanks in advance

systema shells help slightly, but they still crack.
but your not gonna have much luck, since in Canada we dont run anything over 400fps. You dont need a 130 for that.

just get a M120, tightbore, bearing spring guide, bearing piston head, better cylinder head and better nozzel. There are more ways to increase your fps then just the spring...problem with the spring is it kills V2.

I have run a hurricane mechbox in my SR16 for over 2 years. for atleast a year of that it was shooting 465fps(though i didnt use it) at the start and i managed to work it down to field limits. I know many people who use the hurricane mechbox and all run 400fps and none have cracked.

its not so much the brand of shell. the V2 is fatally flawed and its not the material that allows for it to snap...the simple design is the killer. Of all the mechboxes(reinforced or not) I have seen crack, they all crack in the smal place.

[pinoyboy]

I'll try hurricane out. I've heard running the silent piston head set will help to reduce the risk of the gearbox cracking too.

[damage]

Originally Posted by pinoyboy

I'll try hurricane out. I've heard running the silent piston head set will help to reduce the risk of the gearbox cracking too.

That's right or also consider Angel silent piston head set. Hurricane gbox is a good choice. What the fps limit on your game site? sniper set up? or going back home in the Philippines and go play at a no limit game site 8) :-D

[pinoyboy]

Originally Posted by damage

That's right or also consider Angel silent piston head set. Hurricane gbox is a good choice. What the fps limit on your game site? sniper set up? or going back home in the Philippines and go play at a no limit game site 8) :-D

Yea, I think I might try the Angel silen piston head along with the Hurricane box. I just want to make sure that I can get something that is proven to be a strong gearbox.

Also Droc, have you and others been using your hurricane gearbox with your setup in winter games in Canada? If it survived them, then I should have no problems, as it doesn't really get under 20 degress farhenheit in the winter. Plus, I doubt anyone would play if its that cold.

[Sgt_Lynch]

I donno what everyone is doing wrong... or what I'm doing right. I've never had a V2 crack. I've had all kinds of binding issues with them, but never had one crack. Hell my old XM was running 390fps for 3 years... winter, summer, 30,000 rounds and never had an issue with it. I had an A2 shooting 400+... nuthin.

Weird.

I cracked my V2 and I have seen Apoc crack his...and heard of many others. Stalker will prolly toss in since I know he has replaced a few broken mechboxs

[pinoyboy]

well, was this during a winter game or what? Any details on the weather that day and the gearbox setup?

[eel one]

I Have been running a G&P 7mm reinforced V2 box with a M130 spring at a ROF of round 30 bb's/sec for 1½ years now. No problems with cracks so far. I realy dont know why, but it seen that it takes scandinavian people to make a proper upgrade on an AEG, if you whant it to last. I rarely hear of and never see any cracked boxed, in the danish airsoft community. But we might be a lucky nation? If you do the job right first time, when upgrading, you can have a gun running for round 40-50.000 rounds before havning to do anything more that installing a new piston.

[CDN_Stalker]

Hurricane mechboxes are damn good, but will still crack. A few months ago I replaced my piston in my MP5, and noticed a hairline crack in the usual spot, as well as up top of it along the curve in front of the cylinder. I rarely opened it last year, ran it shooting 365fps every second weekend for 8 months, so I wasn't sure when the crack started. I drilled a small hole at the end of the crack, and used Metal Set, aluminum filled epoxy, to cover where the crack is, figuring I could reinforce it a bit, maybe enough to keep it happy. Used it that way a few games, crack hasn't spread at all and gun is shooting fine.

Anyways, was a couple months ago I mentioned the crack to Apoc, and shortly after that he opened his SR-16 to see a hairline crack as well, so he replaced the mechbox. In that gun in particular, he previously had Systema reinforced mechbox, it only last about 2 months shooting 400fps before it blew and took the hop up unit with it. Hurricane mechbox lasted over a year, games every week or two for him.

Originally Posted by eel one

I Have been running a G&P 7mm reinforced V2 box with a M130 spring at a ROF of round 30 bb's/sec for 1½ years now. No problems with cracks so far. I realy dont know why, but it seen that it takes scandinavian people to make a proper upgrade on an AEG, if you whant it to last. I rarely hear of and never see any cracked boxed, in the danish airsoft community. But we might be a lucky nation? If you do the job right first time, when upgrading, you can have a gun running for round 40-50.000 rounds before havning to do anything more that installing a new piston.

its nice that G&P ships with the 7mm reinforced mechbox, they can take more abuse then your usual mechbox.

[Kid]

Originally Posted by eel one

I Have been running a G&P 7mm reinforced V2 box with a M130 spring at a ROF of round 30 bb's/sec for 1½ years now. No problems with cracks so far. I realy dont know why, but it seen that it takes scandinavian people to make a proper upgrade on an AEG, if you whant it to last. I rarely hear of and never see any cracked boxed, in the danish airsoft community. But we might be a lucky nation? If you do the job right first time, when upgrading, you can have a gun running for round 40-50.000 rounds before havning to do anything more that installing a new piston.

Just out of curiousity,

What kind of parts would be required for such a high ROF and FPS upgrade?

I've been wanting to get my gun to shoot around 30/s for a long time and just wondering what I could do to make that possible.

It's a Classic Army, right now it has a silent piston set and a PDI 140% spring.

[Sgt_Lynch]

Originally Posted by Kid

What kind of parts would be required for such a high ROF and FPS upgrade?

High speed gears, but only if you have a slinky spring. A 140% should be ok. And, more voltage... 9.6v will spin the motor quicker than a 7.2v.

I put together a Colt 9mm SMG with gears and a 12v battery on a stock spring, it dumped the mag in like 1/3 of a second. :lol:

[mcguyver]

G&P mechboxes are tough that's for sure. I ran my SPR for a year with a 190% PDI spring in it shooting at 450+ FPS and not a sinlgle issue with the shell. Tappet broke though, no surprise there.

I think I put about 30,000 through it last year and it's still going strong. Rate of fire with a 9.6v battery was 14-15 rounds per seconds.

[eel one]

Originally Posted by Kid

Just out of curiousity,

What kind of parts would be required for such a high ROF and FPS upgrade?

I've been wanting to get my gun to shoot around 30/s for a long time and just wondering what I could do to make that possible.

It's a Classic Army, right now it has a silent piston set and a PDI 140% spring.

Laylax Torque gears
SystemA M130 Main spring
Kanzen Ceramic Series-L 7mm bearings
MOSFET switch
1,5mm^2 wires
Flat ventilated piston head (no bearings)
switz chees piston (stock TM piston brougt nown to a weight to round 6-7 grams).
... the lots, the only stock part I use are the TM piston but that is also tweeked. This running on a Eagle force 1300 motor since it can take the high voltage. SystemA motors run faster but have issues coaping with hi voltage. A stock eg1000 motor might wirk as well but lack i torque compaired with the eagleforce. Besides this it all comes down to how many volts you whant to use. On 12v it runs at a ROF of 22 round/sec (with an old motor), but try running it with 14,4 volts and this will be the expression on your face -> :grin: BUT, NO NOT TRY THIS WITH systema PARTS, the beavel gear will brake very fast.

a "standard" compatition gun in Denmark runs at 129/sec at V0 and a ROF between 28 and 32. Normally the parts used are M120 spring, ordinary gears, 12v batteries and a shit load of tweeks whitch include motors build from different brands. It is all about making sure that the motor gets all the juice from the battery (hence the mosfet, thicker and shorter wires and less connections) and that there are no air leakes, so you will need a less tens spring to keep you under the 129.9 meters/sek V0 limit as required at most game sites (in Denmark). To get a high ROF you whant the piston to be as light as possible. If you what to go really fast on ROF, then a short stroke mod might be required, but that will also need a more tens spring to compensate for the decrease in the piston movement.