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December 20th, 2011, 16:15 | #1 |
v3 trigger switch melted..
hey so i got a gun in a trade and it fired fine when i first tested it, but a couple hours later i went to test it again and it wouldnt fire. i opened her up and the plastic between the 2 trigger contacts was melted to the main body of the switch.
i managed to get it apart and the wires are in tact. all i need is a switch. with the bracket that holds the contacts apart as well of corse. what i want to know is which switch to get because this one is made of abs i believe and i want something that can handle heat better (possibly a teflon or something switch) maybe someone has one lying around even that they would sell to me, because i dont need wire or anything else that comes in these kits. Btw its a v3 trigger |
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December 20th, 2011, 16:43 | #2 |
Harvester of Noobs' Sorrow
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how about you figure out why the switch melted before melting another one. im quite sure that if your switch is getting that hot, something is seriously wrong with your gun.
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Weapons Technician / Gunsmith Don't look at me, I don't know, lol ¯\(°_o)/¯. |
December 20th, 2011, 17:09 | #3 |
Are you running a Systema motor?
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Please email me as I'm not on ASC too often. Custom Build | Upgrades | Repairs | Maintenance Contact: ghostgunwork@gmail.com / Private Message |
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December 20th, 2011, 17:24 | #4 |
nope, its a marui hyper 1000, and i just got this gun in a trade. which it was but i only tested it once and then it stopped working. it was running a 7.2v 2500mAh NiMH battery that came with it.
here is a picture of what the switch looks like.. DSCN1455.JPG |
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December 20th, 2011, 17:31 | #5 |
I would have someone qualified look over the gearbox unless you know how. It does seem like too much current was put through the switch assembly. Cause could be resistance from over shimming, bottle neck in the wiring or motor is drawing too much current. Take a look at all those area before installing a new switch assembly, or you'll be back here with the same issue.
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Please email me as I'm not on ASC too often. Custom Build | Upgrades | Repairs | Maintenance Contact: ghostgunwork@gmail.com / Private Message |
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December 20th, 2011, 17:37 | #6 |
i did actually notice that it was shimmed pretty tight, maybe ill re shim it and see what happens. im not a pro with this stuff but i think im alright. i should also mention that the trigger assy was a KA with low resistance wire, wired to deans. no fuse though.
this wouldnt be such a piss off if it wasnt my only gun lol |
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December 20th, 2011, 19:39 | #7 |
If you crank a mid-high power setup (anything above 350 fps) with that battery, you drain a LOT of current in your motor. The motor won't be damaged, but everything else will. That 5000mAh battery can probably kick around 45-50A... way above what the switch assembly can take.
Buy a decent 8.4v battery and a new switch assembly. It should not melt again. And check shimming/motor wear while at it. Both can cause excessive current draw. |
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December 20th, 2011, 19:39 | #8 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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+1 to that
Check for shorts, you'll have to buy a new switch anyway so you'll be rewiring the gun anyway. A good preventative measure would be to install a simple MOSFET switch. This will prevent any trigger switch damage, and if you install a fuse before the MOSFET switch it should protect the switch from damage as well. |
December 20th, 2011, 22:25 | #9 |
i was thinking about getting a mosfet just to change the full auto to 3round burst.. would the mosfet and fuse cause a significant ammount of resistance?
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December 20th, 2011, 22:27 | #10 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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your thinking of an SW-COMP, not a simple MOSFET.
Only difference is the SW-COMP has a computer on it. And actually the MOSFET or SW-COMP both significantly REDUCE resistance in the system, you'll actually hear a noticeable RoF increase. |
December 20th, 2011, 22:28 | #11 |
Update:
the gun is back together and firing again with the old trigger switch installed. ill get a new switch anyways but what else should i do to prolong the life of my gun? i should also mention that i have a 9.6v nimh i want to run in it. |
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December 20th, 2011, 22:30 | #12 |
really? i thought that adding anything to the wire would add resistance. lol i guess there are capacitors in mosfets? (sorry if i sounded dumb right there)
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December 21st, 2011, 01:02 | #13 |
MOSFET works as a command unit, the power goes from the battery to the relay, and then directly to the motor, instead of having full current running through the switch it's only a part of the current, only what's need to "open the gates" from the relay to the motor.
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December 21st, 2011, 01:10 | #14 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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The stock trigger is the largest point of resistance in your gun, by a REALLY significant amount.
What a MOSFET does is it bypasses your trigger. Think of the MOSFET as a dam between your battery and motor. Your physical trigger is what signals the dam to open. There's WAY less resistance through a MOSFET than there is through your trigger contacts. Because your trigger isn't hooked up to the motor, it has only minimal amperage going through it, prolonging the life of your trigger contacts. |
December 21st, 2011, 10:21 | #15 |
oooh ok, so i guess just add a mosfet right after the battery and it should help everything? also how easy would it be to fry a mosfet? or would i even need to worry?
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