CyberGun SiG552 And You.

[Rotting]

The CyberGun SiG552 And You
By Rotting a.k.a. Roko.

I am aware that the photos are large by default. They are taken large so that viewers can see the details if they so choose.

I sincerely apologize for the lack of updating on the parts of this guide that still require it. I do not own a camera and my current computer is stingy about how it uploads photos. I have all the photos necessary, I just need to get them onto the computer one way or another. I'm really hoping I can get this done sometime in the following weeks. Again, I apologize if this is really hindering anyone.

Thesis
Right off the bat, I'd like to say that the SiG552 is a unique weapon, and requires a unique person to truly take it on as their own. Through this "CyberGun SiG552 And You" review, I will explain as much as I can from the ups and downs of the gun out of the box, to what problems you may face on the field. I'd also like to note that through-out this review, any and all reviews on the SiG552 will be based on the CyberGun clear receiver version (Also known as the Swiss Arms Clear version). I've decided to do this review because the CyberGun SiG552 is a common mid-grade gun that most new players look at and consider buying, and I think that alone warrants a good explanation of this particular weapon, so that they don't end up purchasing a gun that they may not like. Here's a photo reference so you know the exact model I am talking about.



It should also be noted that some people will not call this the CyberGun SiG552, and will call it the Swiss Arms SiG552. Look at the picture above. The bottom right corner has 2 emblems. One is holographic, the other is a non-holographic emblem. This is the indication mark that says this is a CyberGun product. Calling this the Swiss Arms SiG552 is acceptable, but some players, especially new players, may look at it thinking that the Swiss Arms SiG552 Clear Version is better than the CyberGun SiG552 Clear Version. This is not the case, they are the same thing. I've also noticed that some people have marketted this SiG552 as "Swiss Arms SiG552" and increase the price of other people marketting the "CyberGun SiG552" due to calling it something different, causing some slight confusion. Do not be fooled, you are buying the same thing. Both the CyberGun branding and Swiss Arms branding are on the box.

The CyberGun SiG552 can usually be purchased for a price anywhere from $160.00 to $290.00 (I've heard of the price being as low at $120 from wholesalers). These prices are in Canadian dollars. Prices vary depending on where you are shopping. If you ever see someone selling a Swiss Arms/CyberGun SiG552 for nearly $400, or even $350, not including shipping, because it's painted black, look elsewhere. I cannot post a link to a retailer selling the SiG552 for cheaper, since that's age verified information only. I garauntee you the same gun, not painted black, will be for nearly $100-$150 cheaper. Buy it there, and paint it yourself. Painting this gun is extremely simple after disassembling the receiver. A can of krylon flat-black (not that ugly glossly black) spray paint is something like $10. I'm telling you this so you can save yourself $90-$140 because someone else "expertly" painted their Swiss Arms/CyberGun SiG552. There will be a tutorial in the second post sometime explaining how to disassemble the gun so you can paint it yourself. The money you saved buying a clear gun and painting it black yourself can buy you anywhere from 6-8 mags. Be smart about your purchases.

Every photo in this two-post review is done by myself. I'm saying this to clear the fact that I know what I am talking about. This isn't a bunch of copy and paste from a bunch of sites, throwing it into one big tutorial. Every single one of these photos is taken because I believe they will help you in some way. If you for any reason do not understand a particular photo's relevance or what it's trying to explain, feel free to PM me concerning it. If you would like a particular photo taken, again, you may also PM me and I will get you a photo as soon as possible.

Out of the Box
Let's start where everyone starts. Out of the box. Right away, you'll be concerned with what you got in the box. In the box, you will receive the following:

• CyberGun SiG552 with clear receiver.
• Battery and charger included.
• Two rails. Lower rail and right-side rail (as if looking down the iron sights) both screwed on the handguards.
• A metal gearbox, version 3
• High capacity manual-wind magazine, holds roughly 300 rounds.
• A brief manual.

Out of the box the gun is cosmetically un-appealing, mainly due to the clear parts. The only clear parts are the upper and lower receiver, which you can easily paint after dis-assembly (More on that later). The CyberGun SiG552 shoots roughly 330FPS with 0.20g BBs. The rate of fire of this gun is actually quite impressive, but you must have the battery charged, no doubt about it. When the battery begins losing charge, you will notice that the rate of fire drops quite a bit. On top of the rate of fire dropping, firing the gun in semi auto becomes less responsive, and can sometimes seize up. With a charged battery, you can tap the trigger continuously on semi with no problems of it seizing. I've personally been mistaked as firing in full-auto due to the responsiveness with a charged battery on semi-auto. The motor that comes in the box is a grey medium length motor, unbranded. It's reliable for a stock motor, shouldn't need to replace it unless you have to. The stock hop-up is an adjustable one, but you will suffer trying to adjust it bare-handed. This can be solved just by very lightly spreading a thin layer of 100% silicone oil on the inside of the adjusting knob. I'd suggest bringing a small flat-head screwdriver into the field to easily adjust it if you do not lube it. You can do it with your hand, but you're going to get a little mad at it as it can get pretty stiff otherwise. Metal exterior parts include the trigger, iron sights, outer barrel, selector switches, magazine release, trigger guard, the part that the folding stock locks into is also metal.

The Battery & Charger
The battery that you receive from the box isn't that great. It's a 8.4v mini battery, probably around 1100 mAh (Don't quote me on it. Battery is covered in black shrink tape). I highly suggest the Intellect 8.4v 1600 mAh NiMH battery, but be aware that it is quite a tight fit. You have to place the battery's back to the front of the gun, place the upper handguard's lip in first, then push the battery down into place, and the handguard will easily lock into place with a bit of effort (That may sound confusing, but when you do it yourself, it's easy as pie). These are about $55 CDN delivered to your doorstep as of July 16, 2009. The charger also isn't of best quality out there. It's just a simple wall-charger, doesn't have a light or anything to notify you that the battery is charged, etc. A fully dead 8.4v 1600 mAh NiMH battery takes roughly 8 hours 30 minutes to charge with the stock charger. It'd be wise to purchase a reliable charger.

The Magazines
The high-capacity magazine you get isn't the best either. Made of rather flimsy, cheap plastic. If you're on a budget and need mags, go for the 100 round MAG brand SiG Series Magazines. These magazines hold a bit more rounds then they claim. Seven out of eight of my MAG brand SiG Series mags hold 106 rounds, the last one holding 105 rounds. You can remove the white block inside the MAG brand SiG Series mags to increase your capacity to about 120 rounds (I'll update this to an exact number after I can confirm it). There are also Tokyo Marui 43rd magazines with fake ornamental rounds in them available as well. These magazines are more pleasing to the eye, but they do cost a bit more. Be warned that you cannot import Tokyo Marui 43rd Fake Round SiG Series Magazines yourself unless you are properly licensed to do so. If you are not licensed, you must find someone who is licensed to legally bring them into Canada. I cannot comment on the reliability of the 43rd magazines at this time. I'd also like to clear up the rumor that G36 mags do not fit into the SiG550/551/552. Speaking from a frugal point of view, the 100rd mags are a good buy. You get a box of two of the mags for basically the price of one 43rd fake round magazine. There are high capacity mags available by Jing Gong and Tokyo Marui that can be purchased internationally, however I cannot comment on the performance or durability of them.

Here's a photo of 8 MAG brand 100-rd SiG Series Magazines.


Externals
There are a few things to address here. Let’s start with the obvious. The receiver set is plastic. Not the best plastic, but I’ve fallen directly on top of mine in a slip accident and the body didn’t crack clean in two. Has some durability to it, but it’s clear. May want to paint it (Make sure if you paint it to follow a guide explaining how. Too many people buy a can of gloss black spray paint, go at it, and it looks terrible). Two (Or three, depending how you want to count) of the issues with the externals of this gun are the screws and the handguard pin. The screws behind your selector MUST be tight. It says they have a specific side. I gamed on two separate occasions with them on opposite sides, no considerable difference aside from they are in a different spot. Make sure they are tight, though, as they will loosen and fall out from you moving around. I’m proof, I lost mine. The handguard pin is a quality issue as well as, again, a losing issue. The cap part that screws on can crack. Again, living proof, as mine did. Due to this, you may lose the piece of junk in the field. If this is the case, you can either search to find a pin-set and purchase it (These pin-sets are legal to import, they will have no problems crossing the border) or you can throw a bolt in there and paint it black or something with some model paint. I don’t have the numbers written down, but I believe your best fit is a 5/12 1¼’ bolt. Note that this is a specialty bolt. If you cannot find that, look for “1/4-20 x 1 1/2 “ bolts, then compare the single-selling bolts for something just barely thicker. The “1/4-20 x 1 1/2” bolts are just slightly too thin in diameter, and rattle slightly. Don’t get stove bolts either, it looks weird.



The circled area, when disassembled, shows a screw (The yellow box on the LEFT). This screw can be a pain in the ass because tightening it will crack the plastic security plate. Be careful when tightening this as too not overtighten it. Make sure this is tightened properly, as if the screw isn’t tightened all the way, your handguards will not be able to get into place. Do NOT try to jam the handguards down. Go back to that screw, and tighten it just a bit more. Try again with your handguards. If they still do not fit, retighten. Rinse and repeat until you can get your handguards in. Once you get them in, I’d advise you tight it by ¼ of a way if possible to ensure it’s in place. If it’s already very tight, do not tighten it any more.

Metal receivers are available for this rifle. The only available metal body is the Hurricane SiG 55X metal body. Expect to pay a small chunk for this. Anywhere from $300-$400, unless you find a good person not looking for profit who will import for you. You can NOT purchase this on your own, it will be seized by customs. Don’t be an idiot. Due to forum rules, I cannot link you to a metal body. If you are age verified, you can easily search for potential sellers. Otherwise, use the International Retailers tab and find a site-supported retailer that can import for you. I cannot comment on the quality of the metal body as I do not have one, but most Hurricane products are worth being purchased from what I understand.

There are also metal handguards available for this rifle. I’ll post a small “How-To” install the metal handguards, as they do install differently then the stock handguards. Not expensive, not crappy either. Found in the AV Retailer section, available from Huang. Photo below shows the plastic handguards (bottom) and the metal handguards (top).



Pointed out by another reader, Con Murder has brought to light that this rifle has night sights. For those who are night aware of what night sights are, it's basically a flip-up sight that is slightly larger than the molded smaller sight. This is convenient for longer range shots as well as closer range shots. The flip-sight is slightly wobbly by about 0.5mm give on both sides. Be careful not to bang it, as there's a chance it may break off. The small pin holding the flip-sight in place is subject to sliding out just due to flipping it up and down. Every game, I'd suggest that you look at it, and make sure the pin is fully flushed on both sides for optimal hold. However, if you don't want the flip-sight, you can just remove that little pin and the flip-sight part and have only the smaller molded sight left, and zero risk of losing the flip-sight. These sights also do NOT interefere with scopes on a custom-mounted rail with 1-inch rise scope rings. The scopes view will be about 1.5mm-2.0mm above the very top of your front sight. With the TM SiG552 rail-mount, you will also have no problems with the front sight.).

Internals
For the internals, let’s go from the front to the back.

At the front you have your battery compartment and the wiring that connects to the battery. On the underside of the battery compartment you have your wires and a black cylinder object zip-tied to the underside. The black cylinder compartment contains a fuse. If you plan to run a 9.6v battery on your SiG552, that fuse will blow. If you want, you can just remove the fuse entirely, and just connect the wires together or solder them together (This is what I have done to my SiG552 as I blew the fuse testing the gun with a 9.6v. I run an Intellect 8.4v 1600mAh battery in there and it operates just fine). If you want to, you can re-ziptie the now loose cables to the bottom, or you can just re-seal the black cylinder container and then re-ziptie the compartment back in place. If you keep the wires loose, you may accidentally pinch the wires when putting your handguards back on after say a battery recharge. Please do not make that mistake, as you could potentially damage the wiring, and break them. You will no longer have a circuit, which means your gun will not fire. The connecters on the wires as well as your battery are a Tamiya mini type, male and female respectively.

WARNING: I do not recommend that you open your gearbox unless you know how to work on a gearbox. You could damage your gun if you do not know what to do. A proper tutorial on disassembling a SiG552 Version 3 mechbox will be made at a later date in the reserved post below. Let's go inside the mechbox. Inside the SiG552 (Remember, this is a CybgerGun SiG552 Review) you should see a black mechbox. Rumor was going around that this was a reinforced mechbox. It is not a reinforced mechbox, it is just simply painted black. Let's open it up now. The top slide that holds the mechbox in place may be glued down (it was on mine. To get it off, use a flat-head screwdriver and pry it up. You may end up bending it, don't worry. You can bend it back into place later. Now that you've opened it up, let's go over what you see:

• Plastic parts. Your piston, piston head, cylinder head, air nozzle, spring guide, tappet plate, 6mm bushings
• Metal parts. All your gears, trigger assembly, cylinder, anti-reversal latch, spring, shims.
• Gobs of grease.

From what work I've done on my CyberGun SiG552. If you do work on your own mechbox, I'd suggest going ahead and cleaning the inside of your mechbox thoroughly. There's way too much grease in the gearbox. You can do without it. Just make sure you have some white lithium grease afterward to regrease your gears, piston, cylinder, and cylinder head (Honestly a lot of people are very picky on the grease they use. You can go to any hardware store and ask for white lithium grease, and just use that. You get the exact same results for much less of the cost). The amount of low-quality grease inside there is completely unnecessary.

I’m also going to go ahead and say that you should and can replace the wiring. The stock wiring is pretty crappy, and you should probably get anywhere from 10-12 gauge wiring in there instead. If you have a soldering gun, you can easily rewire it. You’ll have much less risk of getting shorting due to pinching. It’s not an expensive upgrade, and it’s worth it. Better wiring = better current, simply put.

POTENTIAL ISSUE: I haven’t figured out if this is a quality problem or I just ordered the wrong part. A Modify V3 Cylinder Head will not fit the mechbox. I’m not sure if there is a specific part. I will search into this and get back to everyone with an answer on it, unless someone else can confirm if the SiG needs a specific cylinder head. The issue is that the holes on the sides of the cylinder head are too narrow, and the mechbox shell pins that are intended to go into these holes are thicker. I’m not sure if this was a quality control issue and I got a bad mechbox shell, but I feel this is worth noting. You don’t want to buy one cylinder head and then potentially it’s the wrong piece and you need to buy another one.

One of the things most people ask about a stock gun, is how well does it perform. Well, I ran my SiG552 for about 4 months or so completely stock internals, and 2 months with only a new barrel. The mechbox stock (except the cylinder due to a longer inner barrel. Always properly port your cylinder if you get a longer barrel) for about 7 months. The gun performed just fine. Nothing broke, nothng malfunctioned. It didn't perform amazingly, but it still performed well enough to bring to the field I play at most commonly (A 32 acre forestry area. Stock gun performing decent in dense woods is pretty impressive if you ask me). Is it the best gun stock? No, obviously not, but you get what you pay for. You pay $400 for a stock gun, it'll perform better then a $200 stock gun, but the SiG definitely isn't a junker in the field stock.

The spring in a stock SiG552 by CyberGun is quite short (Credit to Jackarutu for pointing this out). You can see the size of the spring in the second post with the chart of the stock internals. Just by eye-balling it, you can tell it's a small spring. With 0.20g BB Bastards, a 455mm Madbull Tightbore barrel and a high-torque motor, I was shooting exceptionally fast, but only shooting about 210FPS or 240FPS (can’t remember which). Upgrade your spring. There are three suggestions. The Mad Bull M120, which should get you about 38XFPS. The Modify S100, which should give you about 37XFPS. The Modify S110, which could potentially bring you above 400FPS, so be careful if you choose that spring. Note that springs react differently with springs. My internals yielded those results, yours may vary. Please do not quote word for word those results.

Last is your motor. The stock motor is a grey medium length motor. It performs quite well. I won't lie, there are better motors out there, but you don't have to replace it until it fails you. But I can't help but notify you of the difference of the stock motor that comes with it and a medium length SystemA High Torque/High Speed motor. If you try to put a SystemA HT or HS motor in, it will n ot work. I'm stressing this because I completely destroyed the pinion gear of my SystemA HS motor due to this, and don't want you to. Here's a photo of both motors side by side:

Black base = Stock Motor.
Red base = SystemA HS Medium Length Motor (Ignore the tilted spring at the top. It sits flat normally).

As you can also see, my computer really, really hates motors, and yes, that is tostitos cheese.


Notice the bottom left of the SystemA motor. There is a small black allen-key adjustable knob. There are two of these (The other is on the other side). The stock motor doesn't have these. The pistol grip plate has 2 metal tabs that stick out that hold the motor in place. These two tabs will push on those black knobs, causing way to much pressure on your SystemA motor, and it will not operate as a result. This will completely destroy your newly bought highly-anticipated motor's pinion gear. Alas, you can prevent this. You have to file down or dremel the tabs down to be only 1mm higher then the center circular tab. you can then place your pistol grip plate back on, and the motor will fit correctly. I suggest that before you dremel it right down to 1mm high, that you stop at about 1.5mm high, and do small-scale filing to get it to fit perfectly. You do not want a gap, and it is possible that 1mm may be too little for your pistol grip. Precision is everything.

Time for the other internals not in the mechbox.

Hop-up. One thing a lot of people like to go for is a metal hop-up unit for their rifle. More metal = better, right? In this case, wrong. There is no SiG series hop-up available, however a G3 Metal Hop-Up unit fits perfectly with one minor detail. The TM (or TM clone) SiG series hop-up has a small area for a screw to go into (Circled in yellow). That screw secures your magazine plate. Not having that screw in can cause your magazine plate to completely fall out upon magazine switching. That’s bad.



Underneath is the G3 metal hop-up unit. Notice the red circle. No screw cavity.

There is no cavity for the screw to go into, thus you cannot secure your magazine plate. Of course you can always get creative of how you are going to secure the magazine plate, but I’d suggest just sticking with the TM (or TM clone) SiG series hop-up unit. It functions just fine, in fact I have had hop issues with my G3 metal hop-up, and found that the stock hop-up unit works better. If you want a genuine TM hop-up unit, they are available. Hard to find, but are available. These import just fine, and will not be seized by border patrol.

In The Field (Gun Performance)
As a stock gun, this gun performs at about sub-par for outdoor, amazing for indoor. The SiG552 holds very good accuracy at a close distance out of the box, but loses it's accuracy quite easily at longer ranges. At an indoor arena, if you aim for their hands, you'll hit in that general region. This can be said for most AEGs in close range, but I still think it's a point to bring up that the close-range effectiveness of this gun is at average as a stock gun. Outdoors is a completely different story. You will lose range very quickly. Makes good for a "over their heads" support weapon, but don't expect to really hit a target you're pointing at. Think of it as a shotgun. You'll spray at what's in your general view down the iron-sights, but probably won't hit anything. The CyberGun 247mm inner barrel simply isn't enough to contend with other low-budget rifles, such as the Aftermath Kraken AK-47 with a 455mm inner barrel. A tightbore 247mm inner barrel will make you that much more of a CQB menace, but for superior range, you will need to get something longer. Personally I have upgraded to a Madbull 6.03mm 455mm Tightbore Barrel, and the range and accuracy is amazing compared to the 247mm, like night and day.

There are plenty of silencers on the market to suit your needs for a barrel, although going anything above a 455mm barrel puts your gun at risk of breaking a little more. With a 509mm barrel or longer, you need a longer silencer, and with a longer silencer, if you hit it against something, due to the laws of mechanical advantage, it has a higher chance of breaking off at the threads. If you decide to get a 455mm inner barrel, you will need at minimum a 21.5cm (or 215mm) silencer to completely cover the inner barrel, and also have roughly 1-2mm of space between the end of the inner barrel and the end of the silencer.

Another great thing about the SiG552 when it comes to indoor is that on top of the 247mm barrel, you also have a folding stock. The only other guns that use a 247mm barrel is the CAR15, P90, and G36C. The only guns with a shorter barrel, the 229mm barrel, is the MP5 and AK Beta. The SiG552 is one of the most compact guns that are readily available to Canadians hassle-free and for a low price once you fold the stock. When the stock folded, you can also use the stock as a foregrip, however with the stock folded, you will not be able to clamp 2 mags together, as the folded stock will now get in the way when you try to reload and have the second clamped mag on the right side of the gun as if looking down the iron sights. With it folded, the gun is roughly 425mm long. In comparison, the P90 is 504mm long. Your gun is more compact then a P90, and has the same inner barrel as it.

Ignore my modifications. The measurements are based on the rear of the receiver to the end of the outer barrel bit. It's 16.75 inches (or 425mm).


A problematic situation is the semi-fire lock-up. This can happen if you're trying to rapidly bump-fire your gun. It happens even more often when you fire your gun and the battery is showing some loss of charge due to use. When this happens, simply push up to full-auto. You will be able to fire in full-auto, and typically after firing a few rounds in full auto and going back to semi-auto, you will be able to shoot in semi auto again. This can be annoying at times, but all guns do this at times. If you have a fully charged battery, you will be able to fire quickly on semi auto near flawlessly with minimal seizing. Like all guns, you can't pull the trigger again while the piston cycle is still in motion. If you do that, you'll either not be able to pull the trigger at all on the second shot, or when you pull the trigger on the second shot, nothing will happen. Note that this also happens if you release the trigger too early in the way that you pulled it maybe 1mm back then released it. The next trigger pull you try to make will either fire the round loaded in, and then seize up, or you just won't be able to pull the trigger. In that case, switch to full-auto, fire 3 rounds or so, and go back to semi-auto and you'll be fine (Usually. If you're still seized, just go back to full-auto and fire again and switch back to semi). Basically, don't be an idiot trying to pull the trigger as fast as you can. You'll just cause it to seize up.

In The Field (Maneuverability)
Now that we've gone over how the gun performs, let's go over how you will perform. Part of a SiG's main downfalls on the field are the mags. Not because they're junk, but because of their design. Putting 2 SiG mags side by side (not clamped) is about 2.5 STANAG mags.



This causes some problems in most vests that are designed to carry M4 STANAG mags. Some pouches will have lips due to the sewing together that the clamping parts of the SiG mags get stuck on. On the field, this can be a major nuisance. You can easily fix this by sewing the lips lower down so there's less space for the clamps to get under and get stuck. The only other alternative is to really research your gear, this way you do not get a vest with pouches that your mags will get stuck in. Also note that any pouches that say each pouch can fit 2 M4 STANAG mags per pouch will not fit 2 SiG mags. I made the mistake of thinking this, thinking that the space might be slightly larger so that 2 M4 STANAG mags fit in comfortably, and not be a tight fit. Typically, it is a tight fit.

Originally Posted by Styrak

For gear, you'll want to get triple-M4 mag pouches. That's what I use for my AUG mags, 2 mags per pouch.

AUG mags and SiG mags are roughly the same thickness. I believe AUG mags are just a wee bit thicker. If you ask a retailer of SiG mags will fit and s/he doesn't know, ask him about AUG mags. Most likely, s/he'll know one or the other, if not both.

Now the body. One thing you may or may not notice is the stock of the SiG552. Upon putting some pressure onto the top of the stock, the stock may "click" and almost seem like it has unhinged and may be broken. It only clicks down about 1cm at the back end of the stock, don't worry, your stock is not broken. Simply lift it upward again, and it relocks. I'm not sure why it does this, but I will look into it and post a remedy if possible. I'd get a picture of it once it's down 1cm, but there's virtually no noticable difference.

The one thing you will also notice if you are a fan of scopes and/or RDS units, is that there is no top rail available stock. You can purchase a TM SiG 552 top rail though, although it's about $40. The HurricanE Metal Body for the SiG552 does come with a top rail. Another thing that is worth mentioning for comfort's sake, is that upon looking through a scope, you won't be able to rest your cheek against the stock unless you have a cheek rest. Although cheek rests are hard to find, it's not impossible. Most scopes will require you to have 1 inch rise scope rings. Anything less will have your scope banging against the rear iron sights. A nice cheap alternative to getting a top rail is putting your own on there. Most people tend to buy a Wal-Mart airsoft gun, usually an M4, just to plink around with. The rails on that Wal-Mart M4, though, are metal. You can remove the rail off the M4 and mount it on to your SiG552 (If you're not too good with lining things up, I wouldn't). If you do this, you must be careful with the screws. If they are longer screws, your bolt will get locked in place. Try to find some smaller screws that will fit. You can then firmly attach the rail to the top and not have your bolt locked. However, most rails like this are not thick enough to compensate for the iron sights. When you place a scope on your newly-placed rail, there's a chance that it may bang against the rear sights (Unless you have the scope placed further up. It's also worth it to mention that the rail on an M4 is longer then the space to put the top-rail. You have to file it down a bit. To remove JUST the windage and elevation part of the rear ironsights, look on the side that does not have the flat-head turning screw. There is a small nub that holds it in place. You will need a small flat-head type tool to unscrew it enough so that this nub comes off (Do not unscrew it so the little screw comes out, otherwise have fun finding it). After you have removed that nub, go back to the other side, and just continuously turn counter-clockwise on the until the entire large screw comes out. You can then simply pull out the inner part easily. I'll do a small picture tutorial of how to disassemble it another day.

The other nice thing comfort-wise about this gun is that you have three possible sling points. The first is at the front by the front iron sight. The second is directly molded on to the rear iron sight. The third one is further back, directly molded to the stock. This gives you the choice of a couple ways to sling your gun. Personally, I wouldn't suggest using the molded one on the rear iron sight, it looks like it might snap, not that it's prone to breaking, it'd be the first to break of the three. Second one being the front end one, and the stock sling point being the last, and I doubt that stock one will ever snap, even under force within reason. Typically the best combination to sling a SiG552 is at the front and at the very back on the stock. If you really wanted to, I'm sure you could modify an official FN P90 sling to hold a SiG552. It's also possible to run this gun with a single point sling attached to the rear ironsight point.



Hopefully you have found this portion of the "CyberGun SiG552 And You" review helpful. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me, and I'll do my best to give you an answer.

[Rotting]

Here's a quick parts description of the insides of a stock SiG552. Sorry about the picture quality, I had to use a back-up camera that was lying around. Once I get the better camera, I'll take a larger picture so that you can see each part much clearer and more detailed.




The SiG552 Breakdown


NOTE: If your fuse is still zip-tied to where your battery was resting a moment ago, cut it, but be careful of the wires while doing so. If you do not cut the zip-tie, you will not be able to disassemble your SiG552. Handguards are already removed, as this is usually the first thing you learn to do with a SiG552. Also note that the little black thing you have under your battery's rest is not on these photos. That's your fuse, and I have removed mine. Don't worry about it. You'll also notice the black 45 degree triangular prism that the battery rests on by default is also not in these pictures. Again, ignore that. I don't put a battery inside my handguards, so I removed it. Both of the not-present items mentioned have no effect on this guideline.


1) The rifle (No handguards, fuse or battery. Mentioned above why).

2) Unlock your stock by pushing the button on the left-side of the rifle (as if you were holding it), unfasten the star-screw in the yellow box, and set it aside where you won't lose it. Re-lock the stock after you have removed the screw.

3) Remove the screws inside the yellow squares and set them aside somewhere you won't lose them (Note that my screws are not shown, as they have already been removed. For the left square, you will have a tab, mine simply broke off. Your hop-up will be black, not silver. I have a metal hop-up in there).

4a) The top part is ready to come off. Gently slide the upper reciever so that the hop-up disconnects from the mechbox. You might have to wiggle it up and down a bit to get it to slide all the way. Use the photo as a reference of where the top-half should roughly be.

4b) Bring the top part up above the rest of the rifle.

5) Gently slide the wires out from the upper reciever. Note that some pressure is involved, just don't yank it and you'll be fine.

6) Congratulations. You have now separated the upper and lower parts of the SiG552. The worst part is over. Set aside the lower half, and go to the upper half. You can now easily remove the barrel. Do this gently, you don't want your barrel smacking up against the inside.

7) WARNING: I don't recommend this to first-timers. To de-assemble the hop-up, pull the twisting nut off, underneath there will be a black clip. Pop it off (Be careful, sometimes the clip can go flying). A gold ring will be around the barrel. Slide it off. You will end up with something like this afterward. The clip I'm talking about is the U shaped piece of plastic, and when it's attached, it clips on right below where it is positioned. NOTE: When you reclip the U shaped piece of plastic, there are two small flat surfaces. Look at your barrel where you detached the clip. Those flat surfaces MUST match up with the barrel, otherwise the twisting nut will not slide on.

8) Back to the lower reciever. Just to make sure, this is what it should look like. The little metal rectangle is your magazine plate. It usually falls out once the upper and lower reciever have been separated. Make sure you keep this close by, as it's easy to forget about.

9) Take off the pistol grip plate by removing the two small screws in the green squares.


I seem to be having extreme difficulty finding a camera. I'm pretty much a good month and a half overdue on forming this guideline, but nothing's really falling into place. What with my rifle fucking up royally and everything, it's not really contributing to the cause. Really hoping I can get this guide finished by the end of August 2010 at the absolute latest.

[Able1]

Your My Hero Mate thanks a billion.

[Rotting]

August 13th, 2009 Update: The picture description of the stock internals of a CyberGun/Swiss Arms SiG552 is now up. The video will be worked on, hoping to get it up there by the end of next week at the latest. Better quality picture will be taken for better view of each individual part once I get my hands on a better camera.

[Con Murder]

Great review! I use the iron sight and stock sling point, and it holds nice. Personally I would also include in this review that the front sight has that flip notch (what the hell is it called!!) and that is handy to help you with ranged shots.
Oh and that the mag can be hard to change if you put a front handle to far back.

[Christo]

This is a fantastic review, thank you.

[Disco_Dante]

Originally Posted by Con Murder

Personally I would also include in this review that the front sight has that flip notch (what the hell is it called!!) and that is handy to help you with ranged shots.

Night sights :P

[Styrak]

For gear, you'll want to get triple-M4 mag pouches. That's what I use for my AUG mags, 2 mags per pouch.

[Rotting]

Picture of stock parts description is up on the second post.

[bomber439]

I was in Calgary yesterday. I was at a hobby shop that had at least 5 of them on the shelf for $200 each.

[Con Murder]

On the topic of disassembly I think it is worth noting that this gun requires a variety of tools and steps to properly open up. Along with the many steps and pieces for reassembling it has a few places where exceptional attention is required.

The two screws that hold the buttstock also reach to the mechbox and can tighten to the point of affecting the selector switch. Seperating the upper and lower reciever can stress the plastic if things are rushed, the same for over tightened screws. Use thread lock.

[Battery]

Excellent Review. Very Detailed, a Friend of mine picked one of these up several months ago. Its a shame it broke the second day he got it. (Wasn't the guns fault, he fell and lost some body pins, broke the stock and scratched his barrel.) He bought new Body Pins, got a new stock and a tight bore. Decent gun, relatively low rate of fire until you change the motor ( witch he did ).

[Jackarutu]

Rotting, I really found your posting very helpful in helping to understand the Cyber Gun Sig 552-X (-1,-2 and -3) better.

The following information is from my observations made while repairing 65 of these weapons I still have 25 of them that needs some attention.

The first things I noticed is the pin that holds the handgrip from coming lose to expose the battery must be very easy to fallout and get lost because most of the sigs I’ve repair were missing these pins when they came in. The thing here is to use lock tight on the thread to stop them from un screwing so easy but I doubt that will stop them from getting lost.

The second problem I found was the lower receiver seems to beak where the screw goes thru in front of the hop up. Almost everyone I’ve had my hands on was cracked and broken. I used ABS two part glue to fab a new mounting pad. Next several of them had cracks along the upper receiver from the back of the bolt to the end of the receiver. I also glued all of these with two part ABS glue. So the glue seems to be holding.

Does anyone in the US sell the metal receivers? I’ve found three companies in China that sell them on web sites but they want your first born child plus $190 dollars US.

Next were weapons that didn’t shoot. I found cold solder joints on the gearboxes and broken motor quick connects. Over all the wiring is very poor. If I were to do upgrades I think my first job would be to replace all the wire with high quality stranded wire and do away with the fuse holder. I would solder the wires to the motor to remove the problem of the stackons coming lose or getting high resistance.

These sigs use version 3 gearboxes with special attachment to make the safety work. I’ve had to open a few of them due to shattered pistons and missing teeth on the piston.

The first one I opened I notice that the piston spring was very short compared to an m4/m16 spring (almost 2 inches). My thoughts on this are that Cyber gun wanted to assemble these to shoot fast and not have any power behind the bb so to stop law suits from kids shooting their buddies in the eye.

I replaced a couple of these with JG m4 stock piston and springs so in time I’ll find out what effect this has on these sigs.

Next I notice that the spring that helps pull the tappet plate back forward is the mother of all springs. I’ve never seen a spring so strong used on a tappet plate before. Again I think Cyber Guns idea was to help it shoot really fast by getting the tappet plate back forward after each shot faster than a standard version two or three gearbox operates.

Also for those who have no version 3 experience it's a pain to replace the tappet springs if it comes off the tappet plate because its behind the switch (unlike a version 2 gearbox) and you have to pull it out of place to attach the spring.

If I were to upgrade these gearboxes instead of just repairing I think I would go with a total Modify setup: 110 springs, bearing spring guide, bearing piston head, Ultra piston, Modular gear set, etc.

I look forward to seeing your next post on this subject because I think even thou Cybergun SA made these on the cheap they have great potential for upgrading.

[Rotting]

October 20, 2009. Original post edited.

Externals category
- Body information
- Handguard information
- Pins and screws information

Added information on metal hop-ups
Added rewire recommendation
Added quote by Styrak
Added potential cylinder head issue
Added spring information
Added photo-tutorial of SiG552 disassembly (EDIT: Uh, half way done on this. Camera took a dump, I'll get back to it on the weekend. Studying for physiology is slightly more important then a shitty camera, but I will get to it)

[fliimad]

That's a very interesting topic. But this field is still new to me. It will be grateful if you give me some
more information about it. Thanks in advance.