May 15th, 2009, 22:11 | #1 |
Crane stock battery
What kind of battery will fit in my crane stock on my CA M15A4. The gun hasnt arrived yet, but what battery would u recommend? Is it the ones that look like Tri-nunchalks? or just the nunchalk ones? Thanks guys, sorry for the newb question
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May 15th, 2009, 22:18 | #2 |
Red Wine & Adderall
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Either of these designs should do the trick. As long as the voltage and MAH ratings are sufficient to your requirements then you should be fine.
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"Its only a little bit on fire" |
May 15th, 2009, 23:06 | #3 |
I feel I should also point out because I too just learned this fact. The top battery pictured above will not allow the stock to collapse fully as the middle battery will stop it. The two stick bat will not have this problem but will obviously pack less punch.
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May 16th, 2009, 01:52 | #4 |
what brand, mAH and voltage would you guys recommend?? Battery life isnt something im concerned of right now, im more concerned about rate of fire... i would probably fire around 200 rounds in a week.. mainly in door target practice
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May 16th, 2009, 04:25 | #5 |
The 9.6v I have in mine (exact same gun pretty much) does just fine. mAH is just lasting time so get what ever you want really. I think just about anything north of 1000 mAH should get you through what you're planning just fine.
Last edited by Dagda; May 16th, 2009 at 04:29.. |
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May 16th, 2009, 04:31 | #6 |
Vicious MSPaint Wizard
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http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/bb-batter...ane-stock.html YMMV, depends on the buffer tube lenght. This fits really tight in my CA. |
May 16th, 2009, 11:31 | #7 |
I just wanted to clarify something. How come the the bottom battery will have less punch? Its still rated at 9.6V even though battery life is shorter. Thanks.
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May 16th, 2009, 11:44 | #8 |
formerly Sepulcrum
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Voltage and amperage = power. amperage is also life though too, generally you want 2000mah for a full day gaming.
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May 16th, 2009, 12:59 | #9 |
Your best bet (for ease of use and minimal frustration) is to get the G&P Crane Stock Batteries. You can get them in 8.4v, 9.6v and 10.8v configurations - but they come by default with DEANs connectors.
Therefore, you'll either need to convert your AEG to a DEANS connector (recommended), or convert the battery to a Tamiya mini connector. The swapping out of connectors either way, is well worth the hasstle free benefits of the G&P batteries. The plastic sleeve they come with, holds the three groups of battery cells so they just slide into the crane stock without the wires getting caught on anything. VERY nice to have when you don't have time to fight with a battery when swapping it out or when you generally just don't need any extra aggravation in your life. This same system also allows you to collapse the butt stock significantly further than the nun-chuck batteries do. Personally, I find the conventional "nun-chuck" battery set up nothing but a headache. When I first got my CA M15A4 CQB SEAL, I fought with the nun-chuck batteries every time to get them into the Crane stock, and once in - the most the stock would collapse, was the furthest extension setting. As time went on, I discovered that the G&P Crane Stock had more room in it lengthwise - particularly the side saddle compartments. However the CA Crane stock had wider diameter spaces for the batteries themselves, meaning they could take a larger cell (more mah for a Ni-Cd or Ni-Mh). However, I swapped my CA Crane stock for the G&P one as I had plans to load two 11.1v 1200mah LiPo's into the side saddle compartments with the connectors at the rear, so a quick pop of the butt plate and I could quickly and easily switch batteries if needed. This only required minor modifications to the butt to access the connectors, and those modifications would only be visible when you took the butt plate off. One of the other benefits of switching to the G&P Crane Stock, was that the buffer tube it comes with, has a groove cut out of the side to accommodate the connector wiring. This makes hooking up the battery and collapsing the stock a little easier than the stock CA one. Lastly, the G&P batteries are also typically much cheaper than their nun-chuck style battery counterparts, though you will be limited in miliamps (2200mah). However, if miliamps are that important to you, I would argue that for the cost of the batteries, and the ease with which they can be swapped out vs the nun-chuck style ones, you'd be better off getting two or more of the G&P batteries. Anyhow, I'd definitely recommend the G&P crane stock batteries as the best Ni-Cd solution. If you have any interest in putting a Li-Po into your gun (assuming you'll upgrade it to handle a Li-Po) then I'd suggest the Firefox 11.1v 1200mah (3pcs) Batteries. The 3 pieces per battery make it easier to slide the whole battery into one of the side saddles as opposed to the 1 piece batteries which are more rigid/less mailable. Hope that helps Bud! Cheers!! Brian |
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May 16th, 2009, 16:26 | #10 | |
Red Wine & Adderall
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Quote:
It is true that in the tri batt config it is essentially impossible to close your crane stock entirely. Heres a suggestion for a website if you are interested in purchasing any additional in the future. They have great customer service and alot of people from ASC buy from them. http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/?sid=1584548
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"Its only a little bit on fire" Last edited by TokyoSeven; May 16th, 2009 at 16:28.. |
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May 16th, 2009, 19:28 | #11 |
Okay so taken all things to consideration, which one is better, the nunchuck or the tri-nunchuck? I prefer something that is 9.6V with 2000mah+... if so, do you think the sanyo or the Greenpow would fit in my CA M15A4 crane stock? Thanks
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May 17th, 2009, 02:17 | #12 |
Really its a personal choice, do you want to be able to retract your stock or not? As for fitting, measure the diameter of the holding tube and send an e-mail to the seller checking if it will fit before you buy.
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May 17th, 2009, 03:47 | #13 |
Well, i would like to have the stock fully retracted and extended...I actually dont have the gun yet, but will soon..so that when it arrives, i will have all the accessories already
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May 17th, 2009, 17:18 | #14 | |
Quote:
I can speak to this... saw the traffic from the picture coming through to the site =) We don't mind hotlinks from forums. sometimes people do it to their own shops or craigs list postings and thats just in poor taste =) http://sitrep.airarmory.com/sitrep/p...link-FAIL.aspx either way, sub c cells have a higher AMP per hour output rating than AA cells or 2/3 cells. In this thread someone said Power = Voltage x Amps this is true. But it is not the Mah Rating it is the generally undisclosed amp per hour rating of the cell or battery pack. and i say battery pack as adding all the tabs and wires changes the voltage and thus changes the amp rating of the only thing the original manufacture can speak to which is the cell itself. Personally in my Classic Army M15A4 PMC w/ crane stock i use a 4200 or 4600 9.6v crane battery. I would absolutely recommend using this style of battery as classic army made the stock slightly larger than the real steal stock specifically to fit sub c cells. If you load your battery properly you will generally have full use of your collapsing stock, but wire lengths vary and they can get in the way and cause you to loose one position. What you generally need to remember about batteries is voltage speaks directly to RPM and MAH speaks to how many hours the battery can delivery the output of amps the gun draws from the battery. AKA battery life. MAH is also an important consideration for recharging. Batteries less than 1200 mah should not be charged at a rate higher than 1.2 amps per hour for those of you with charges that offer a choice. |
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May 18th, 2009, 02:12 | #15 | |
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DAGDA: Which 9.6V battery are u using for your CA M4?? Do you have a link? Thanks Last edited by turok_t; May 18th, 2009 at 02:14.. |
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