slide lock non lock puzzler HK45T and Umarex HK45CT

[Ratters]

Hi folks, so i've got this thing going on that's got me scratching my head.

Two pistols, both tacticals have this common, repeating problem of only wanting to lock the slide back when the shorty, TM can is on.

Now I've tried pretty much all I know and have tried this list of things:

1. Properly checked, cleaned and re-lubricated EVERYTHING.
2. Installed hi-flow mag valves with TM seals
3. Installed PDI 01 with teflon'd marui hop rubber
4. Tried out a Dyna piston head them went back to stock Marui head.
5. Expanded the hammer spring slightly for potentially more knock force.
6. Banged my forehead on the table and wept
7. Put a few shims under the hammer spring
8. Banged my head on the table a second time and prayed to God and baby jesus

What is going on here and what am I missing?

Gas that is being used is standare Puff Dino and Puff Dino 12. Both giving the same results.

My son purchased the same TMHK45T and he's nearly beside himself as the same problem if not worse is happening with his.

What is the fix here?

[RainyEyes]

I'm not familiar with the terminology what do you mean by "can"?

[Ratters]

Here's an update. I have had success with the slide catch engaging but I had to make sacrifices.

This pistol, the TM HK45T uses a conical shaped rubber buffer / stabilizer on the recoil rod, along with this are two circular rubber grommets.

The two rubber grommets limit the rearward motion of the slide so it doesn't over-travel, however, what they also do is severely restrict the window of time and space the catch needs to engage effectively.

Removing the two grommets and inspecting the slide travel for mild over travel was duly noted.

I have now had 100% success with the slide now locking back after every trigger pull on an empty magazine. This is with stock or high flow valves, regular puff Dino and Dino 12 gas, this is also with the suppressor on or off and with a hot or cold magazine.

So it is functioning now but at a cost. The cost is the hammer will lightly kiss the edge of the piston but not causing any significant wear or damage that i can see.

Long term use of the pistol may develop slight marring but it's nowhere near that and I will post up if it does cause any detrimental effect to the function of this pistol.

My goal was to have 100% slide lock reliability for the sake of figuring out why it wouldn't.

One thing worth mentioning is even removing one grommet would not lock it back, using an even thinner o-ring in place of the two grommets would not lock it back reliably.

It was only after both were removed that's it's been consistent.

It's been a time consuming but interesting dilemma. From time to time and out of curiosity I may add back a grommet simply to see if anything changed. I will post it up if they do but from a mechanically functioning point of view this may be the bastardized and improvised solution

[Ratters]

next day test: one o-ring was added forward of the conical rubber buffer to reduce the possibility of slide over-travel.

lock of the slide with empty magazine activating the slide catch was intermittent. Removing the o-ring and using only the conical buffer again resulted in 100% reliability.

note that this was a brand new in the box, never fired store bought GBB and I bought 2.

One is Black and tan, second all black and both exhibiting the same issue.

One thing to note and this is to get the grey matter working for the techies: with the short suppressor supplied with the pistol it locks back every time with the two grommets in place.

With the suppressor off (with the factory setup grommets in place it will not.

I wouldn't mind some feedback on this because i'm either off my meds or there are others out there with similar experience.

incidently and worth mentioning, the same issue occurs with my Umarex/VFC HK45CT Mk.24 Mod 0

Suppressor on, it locks back on a empty magazine 100% of the time, Suppressor off, it will not lock back.

on a positive note I only ever want to run the HK45CT with the shorty suppressor on (because it looks fricking awesome and makes a cool, metal "ting" when it recoils)

the HK45T without it on the field so I suppose it's struck the balance I was looking for although I had to adjust the factory set-up on the Marui pistol to achieve these results.

All in all it's a well built, esthetically pleasing pistol but I can see without a doubt that brand new out of the box isn't always 100% reliable (everyone can relate to this in the airsoft world) and after all, isn't this why we love his sport? it either bounces off a tree or wall in utter grief, rage or despair (usually in that order) or you concede defeat, suck it up, learn and put in the time and show it some love unless it's a (add your own brand here).

If you have experienced this same issue with the TM HK45T and/or the Umarex HK45CT please add to this thread with solutions you have found to work.

[Styrak]

Putting anything more than feather-light on the end of a tilting barrel airsoft pistol and you're gonna have a bad time. It decreases performance, uses more gas, and can introduce failures.

[Ratters]

Hey folks, I wanted to share with you that the pistol, one of them anyway, the TM HK45T is functioning as it should with all grommets and all original parts in place with the only upgrade currently being the PDI inner barrel.

I can't explain why it was being problematic over the past few days but it could be an ambient temperature thing, a lubrication thing or a "Tokyo Marui just makes great stuff so don't mess with it thing"

In any case i acknowledge to the community with humility that i was annoyed, somewhat impatient, and it made me consider altering things instead of giving it some break in time.

I hope you can all appreciate this additional post because i don't want to mislead others into believing there are issues with particular manufacturers products. not in this case with a Marui product at least.

For those who offered help i do appreciate it.

Ratters

[Ratters]

Yesterday it was determined that a third TM HK45 exhibited the exact same problem of the slide not locking back or partial lock backs or no lock back at all, with or without the suppressor attached.

The remedy to this on the stock pistol was to hold the threaded barrel forward with light pressure and it locks back each and every time.

Now I'm no tech wiz but it seems to me that the inner barrel should have some sort of light pressure spring that would help pres the outer barrel forwards as a counter resistance the rearward motion during firing.

How this would be achieved I do not know but I'm thinking a secured o-ring in a modified, channel cut inner barrel with a light spring that pushes on the outer barrels centering channel ridge. Mechanically speaking this makes sense and mimmicks the forward tension of holding it forwards during firing.

The fact that it would lock back fairly consistently with the suppressor on shows that more front drag meant less rear slack but a positive pressure via a spring should completely solve this problem.

Let me know what you think and maybe, collectively we can make this thing do what it's supposed to do with or without the suppressor on.

On a side note and regarding the VFC CT, this fix does not solve the problem. The design as some will know, of the hop chamber to outer barrel is completely different, a separate issue all together that I have yet to address prior to completly giving up and melting it in a kiln

[Ratters]

Attachment 60584
Attachment 60587
Attachment 60585

Attachment 60586You know those bins of springs and screws and all that crap we accumulate over the years? That stuff we sometime say "maybe I should turf it because i'll never use it"? Well my advice is don't and i'll explain why so you can have a happy shooting TM HK45 without any lock back issues ever again.

M16 barrel spring.

Drop it in the TM HK45/T outer barrel, drop in that silver locking piece, replace the barrel and hop, put the screw in.

Reassemble, test the action, put in the mag and instant smiles.

Adequate magazine follower spring tension is also needed as this pistol and others I've tested, four in total now, all have a partial engagement problem on the slide stop with the supressor off.

My pistol now locks back, dry firing with a hi-flow nine-ball valve, standard Marui magazine valve and with the shorty supressor on or off.

This has been a learning experience for me through trial and error. I hope that some of you, willing to try what I've done, can try the same modifications and benefit from them.

None of these mods permanently change your pistol, they are all 100% reversable in a matter of seconds with no detrimental affect to the pistol while they are installed.

Happy shooting

[Ratters]

It looks like I got lucky having a TM HK45T that functions correctly (as far as the reliability of the slide locking function goes without the suppressor on. It has still been 100% reliable for me to date.

Internally it uses an engagement system that pushes up an alloy block into another alloy strip that is notched and lives up in the slide. Both contact points round easily due to the soft metal used and the slow engagement of the vertically challenged sliding, internal slidestop do hickey.

Three pistols I've looked at all suffer from the same problem. In some circumstances, added bb's under the magazine spring (6 seems to be the magic number on my pistol) help significantly but on other pistols of the same model it does nothing at all so it's a bit of a nut scratcher.

Mechanically speaking it is a system that should work based on the simplicity of its function but alas it has developed a vindictive, f u attitude.

Maybe someone will make these two contact parts out of steel? Something maybe Wii Tech could look at as they are well known for identifying weak areas in aegs, gbb's and gbbr's and machining fixes.

Anyway, that's the latest for those who care to read this.