G&P Metal body threads

Murdoch · July 1st, 2007, 22:14

Heyas, I'm looking for some ideas for this little problem.

I'm trying to install a PDI patriot front end on a new G&P M4 metal body. Now this ring you see threaded all the way down on the stock body but the threads on the G&P seem to be poorly cut. I've sanded a bit to get the paint off, but the ring only seems to make it 3/4 of the way before it snugs up solid. I would be tempted to leave it, but the Patriot front end will only assemble correctly when this piece is all the way on. SO, got any ideas on how to cut these threads properly? I've never seen a die that big, and dremeling it seems risky considering the price of this body... lend me your ideas, please...

Update: Filing and cutting is not working out for me, so I'm looking to get a die to re-cut the threads (www.kbctools.com pages 127). By my measurement with some cheap calipers I get an outer diameter of 30mm and a thread pitch of 1.5 Can anyone else confirm? If this works I can loan out the die to anyone who purchases this style of metal body...

(P.S. Why in the hell did I ever buy an M4?)

Dracheous · July 1st, 2007, 23:40

just get a file and pretty much get rid of the paint in the threads. I had that issue installing TM delta Rings to the G&P body. They seem to be a HAIR different. Your alternative is a pair of channel locks, but you risk stripping threads or even cracking the body.

All you have to do is get the file and run it at the same angle as the threads cutting it just a bit deeper, really its just to get deep enough that the paint is gone.

Murdoch · July 1st, 2007, 23:52

Yea, I hear ya... the threads seem fine, it's just the 'valleys' don't look deep enough... I'll have to pick up a finer file than what I have and give it a shot. Will update later. thanks Dracheous...

keep the ideas coming folks...

Murdoch · July 8th, 2007, 15:55

Just an update for any of you attempting a similar mod:

I've managed to completely thread the PDI delta ring on to the G&P Zombie receiver. My attempts to sharpen the poorly cast threads failed miserably. I even tried ordering a die but it turned out to be the wrong size (anyone need an M30x1.5 hex die?). So instead of hacking away on the threads, I tried attacking from the other side. The delta ring threads were well defined but they were tapered off, from inside to out. So what I did was throw the thing in the lathe and cut down the deeper cutting threads so they wouldn't dig into the shallow 'valley's' on the receiver thread.. It's a pretty lame solution, but imho, it turned out really well. The delta ring is not loose at all, and has clamped the outer barrel down tight. Here are some pics to clear up my jibber jabber

Just a quick look at what to expect...

Now having cleared that hurdle I find a bunch of problems with getting the body to close properly AND getting the rear collet to fit on the stock tube.

It's frustrating but enjoyable to work on, but I have to admit, I am pretty disappointed in quality of this receiver. I haven't even mentioned the ejection port cover and charging handle, but they too require a lot of tinkering. I realize this is what happens when you use aftermarket parts from different manufacturers, but god help you if you buy this and don't have the tools to work on it... I hope to hear comments and criticisms..

Murdoch · July 19th, 2007, 15:20

MODS: Can you please move this to Upgrades & Modifications. It seems more appropriate there now...

Made progress with fitting the two halves. The inner barrel and hopup were preventing them from closing completely...

A buddy of mine gave me a systema reinforced mechbox. It worked beautifully. Now I'm waiting on a ported cylinder to match the short barrel length. Should help fps quite a bit...

Now to fit the rear tube. Instead of cutting off the rails from the body, I'm going to notch out the collet that the tube connects to...

And that grip *has* to go. Suggestions?

pics. Body together, very tight and no rattles.. me likey. WARNING: large file size

Thanks for checking out my mod...

Mantelope · July 19th, 2007, 15:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by Murdoch

And that grip *has* to go. Suggestions?

Tango Down? Of course I think they look good on everything.

stokes · July 19th, 2007, 15:52

How will you be powering that thing? battery bag?

Murdoch · July 19th, 2007, 19:29

I've got a 9.6v 2300mAh nunchuck battery (from Velocity Arms) that fits nicely inside the rear tube. I'll have to cut down the rear stock support to fit it though. The stock TM one was shorter. I'll post some pics when I get to that part...

As for the 'tango down' grip, since I'm not familiar with M4 parts, I'll have a look on google... thanks

Raygis LasVegas · July 19th, 2007, 19:50

Can you please post some pics of the battery solution? I don't understand how that battery can fit in the rear tube.

Drake · July 19th, 2007, 19:54

Nice work, man.

For the grips, you might want to check out the Falcon Ergo Grips; they make an airsoft version, very comfortable.

I'd also suggest adding a tactical latch to complete the look.

ThunderCactus · July 19th, 2007, 20:15

for the record, certain manufacturers make 'thread repair files' for this very specific purpose. And did the G&P threads end up being imperial? They seem to go both ways as theres both imperial and metric bolts on my G&P 249.

Murdoch · July 19th, 2007, 22:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThunderCactus

for the record, certain manufacturers make 'thread repair files' for this very specific purpose. And did the G&P threads end up being imperial? They seem to go both ways as theres both imperial and metric bolts on my G&P 249.

I'll ask my friend C.G to post a more informed answer to your question. She deals with this type of stuff every day, and even managed to get a die to cut the threads. Unfortunately I never got a chance to try it because I had got the delta ring to fit by butchering it a little on the lathe. My thread pitch tool seemed to confirm it as 1.5 (read: imperial), but we'll knock heads and try and get you the info...

Quote:

Can you please post some pics of the battery solution? I don't understand how that battery can fit in the rear tube.

Absolutely Raygis, I'll be working on it more this weekend.

EDIT: I goofed, I meant to say metric... I had originally ordered an M30*1.5 die, and the diameter was wrong.
Edit: Part Deux: heh, I really like the look of those tactical latches.

C.G · July 19th, 2007, 23:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThunderCactus

for the record, certain manufacturers make 'thread repair files' for this very specific purpose. And did the G&P threads end up being imperial? They seem to go both ways as theres both imperial and metric bolts on my G&P 249.

Thread 'repair' files work only so well depending on how fine the thread is, also what grade of steel it was made from, a grade 2 or even cheaper could dent, warp or get notches in it pretty easily as opposed to a grade 5 or 8, also if it's gone thru heat treating or what, you need a steady hand and patience. Dies work pretty well but the threading issue Murdoch was having was pretty much as described, the 'valleys' were very shallow, virtually no grip what so ever, also on the receiver/female part on the last few threads near the base on close inspection were almost for better lack of the word cross threaded, two threads almost ran into each other which was why it wasn’t meeting up properly. I'll hand it to Murdoch he did an awesome job milling the part out just when I got the die in. The parts Metric (a 1.5 t.p.i / threads per inch) is a metric, solid numbers would indicate imperial...
not sure if this answers anything what so ever or if im just babbling but yea, that's all I got..

ThunderCactus · July 20th, 2007, 00:48

I've fixed cross threading with a knife file before, having a thread repair file would be a dream come true lol

Murdoch · July 25th, 2007, 03:58

Ok, I've finally got the arse end together after a couple of days of fidgeting. I cut notches in the rear collet (the red line) so I wouldn't have to shave off the ridges on the stock tube support (green lines) in case I threw a full stock on there sometime.

To fit the battery and wires, I cut the rear tube down about 5/8 of an inch, but you'll notice in the last pic it wasn't quite enough to seat the outer tube completely... I took another 3/8 off and it was fine.

And if you do have to do this, remember, it's worth the time to disassemble everything so you don't get aluminum pixey dust all in your mechbox. Also, sand down the edges that are left so they don't slice your battery wires. Wrap the end in electrical tape if you have to. Better safe than having your gun smoking out in the field......

Other than the grip I suppose thats about it... We'll see you at the next Zombie Game!

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July 1st, 2007, 22:14	#1
Murdoch Trader rating Join Date: May 2006 Location: Scarborough, Ont.	G&P Metal body threads Heyas, I'm looking for some ideas for this little problem. I'm trying to install a PDI patriot front end on a new G&P M4 metal body. Now this ring you see threaded all the way down on the stock body but the threads on the G&P seem to be poorly cut. I've sanded a bit to get the paint off, but the ring only seems to make it 3/4 of the way before it snugs up solid. I would be tempted to leave it, but the Patriot front end will only assemble correctly when this piece is all the way on. SO, got any ideas on how to cut these threads properly? I've never seen a die that big, and dremeling it seems risky considering the price of this body... lend me your ideas, please... Update: Filing and cutting is not working out for me, so I'm looking to get a die to re-cut the threads (www.kbctools.com pages 127). By my measurement with some cheap calipers I get an outer diameter of 30mm and a thread pitch of 1.5 Can anyone else confirm? If this works I can loan out the die to anyone who purchases this style of metal body... (P.S. Why in the hell did I ever buy an M4?) Last edited by Murdoch; July 2nd, 2007 at 21:49..

July 1st, 2007, 23:40	#2
Dracheous Lego Head Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Gatineau, that's right I'm in QUEBEC!	just get a file and pretty much get rid of the paint in the threads. I had that issue installing TM delta Rings to the G&P body. They seem to be a HAIR different. Your alternative is a pair of channel locks, but you risk stripping threads or even cracking the body. All you have to do is get the file and run it at the same angle as the threads cutting it just a bit deeper, really its just to get deep enough that the paint is gone. __________________ _________________________________ "The hydrogen economy car from the people who brought you the 'Hindenburg'" - Glen Foster Condoms do not guarantee safe sex any more. A friend of mine wore one and was shot by the woman's husband!

July 8th, 2007, 15:55	#4
Murdoch Trader rating Join Date: May 2006 Location: Scarborough, Ont.	Just an update for any of you attempting a similar mod: I've managed to completely thread the PDI delta ring on to the G&P Zombie receiver. My attempts to sharpen the poorly cast threads failed miserably. I even tried ordering a die but it turned out to be the wrong size (anyone need an M30x1.5 hex die?). So instead of hacking away on the threads, I tried attacking from the other side. The delta ring threads were well defined but they were tapered off, from inside to out. So what I did was throw the thing in the lathe and cut down the deeper cutting threads so they wouldn't dig into the shallow 'valley's' on the receiver thread.. It's a pretty lame solution, but imho, it turned out really well. The delta ring is not loose at all, and has clamped the outer barrel down tight. Here are some pics to clear up my jibber jabber Just a quick look at what to expect... Now having cleared that hurdle I find a bunch of problems with getting the body to close properly AND getting the rear collet to fit on the stock tube. It's frustrating but enjoyable to work on, but I have to admit, I am pretty disappointed in quality of this receiver. I haven't even mentioned the ejection port cover and charging handle, but they too require a lot of tinkering. I realize this is what happens when you use aftermarket parts from different manufacturers, but god help you if you buy this and don't have the tools to work on it... I hope to hear comments and criticisms.. Last edited by Murdoch; July 15th, 2007 at 02:19..

July 1st, 2007, 23:52	#3
Murdoch Trader rating Join Date: May 2006 Location: Scarborough, Ont.	Yea, I hear ya... the threads seem fine, it's just the 'valleys' don't look deep enough... I'll have to pick up a finer file than what I have and give it a shot. Will update later. thanks Dracheous... keep the ideas coming folks...

July 19th, 2007, 15:20	#5
Murdoch Trader rating Join Date: May 2006 Location: Scarborough, Ont.	MODS: Can you please move this to Upgrades & Modifications. It seems more appropriate there now... Made progress with fitting the two halves. The inner barrel and hopup were preventing them from closing completely... A buddy of mine gave me a systema reinforced mechbox. It worked beautifully. Now I'm waiting on a ported cylinder to match the short barrel length. Should help fps quite a bit... Now to fit the rear tube. Instead of cutting off the rails from the body, I'm going to notch out the collet that the tube connects to... And that grip has to go. Suggestions? pics. Body together, very tight and no rattles.. me likey. WARNING: large file size Thanks for checking out my mod...

July 19th, 2007, 15:52	#7
stokes Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Toronto	How will you be powering that thing? battery bag?

July 19th, 2007, 19:29	#8
Murdoch Trader rating Join Date: May 2006 Location: Scarborough, Ont.	I've got a 9.6v 2300mAh nunchuck battery (from Velocity Arms) that fits nicely inside the rear tube. I'll have to cut down the rear stock support to fit it though. The stock TM one was shorter. I'll post some pics when I get to that part... As for the 'tango down' grip, since I'm not familiar with M4 parts, I'll have a look on google... thanks Last edited by Murdoch; July 25th, 2007 at 04:41..

July 19th, 2007, 19:50	#9
Raygis LasVegas Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Toronto	Can you please post some pics of the battery solution? I don't understand how that battery can fit in the rear tube. __________________ . AEG upgrades & repairs: $25/hr

July 19th, 2007, 19:54	#10
Drake E-01 Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Montreal, QC	Nice work, man. For the grips, you might want to check out the Falcon Ergo Grips; they make an airsoft version, very comfortable. I'd also suggest adding a tactical latch to complete the look. __________________

July 19th, 2007, 20:15	#11
ThunderCactus Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture! Trader rating Join Date: Feb 2007	for the record, certain manufacturers make 'thread repair files' for this very specific purpose. And did the G&P threads end up being imperial? They seem to go both ways as theres both imperial and metric bolts on my G&P 249.

July 20th, 2007, 00:48	#14
ThunderCactus Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture! Trader rating Join Date: Feb 2007	I've fixed cross threading with a knife file before, having a thread repair file would be a dream come true lol

July 25th, 2007, 03:58	#15
Murdoch Trader rating Join Date: May 2006 Location: Scarborough, Ont.	Last mod update... Ok, I've finally got the arse end together after a couple of days of fidgeting. I cut notches in the rear collet (the red line) so I wouldn't have to shave off the ridges on the stock tube support (green lines) in case I threw a full stock on there sometime. To fit the battery and wires, I cut the rear tube down about 5/8 of an inch, but you'll notice in the last pic it wasn't quite enough to seat the outer tube completely... I took another 3/8 off and it was fine. And if you do have to do this, remember, it's worth the time to disassemble everything so you don't get aluminum pixey dust all in your mechbox. Also, sand down the edges that are left so they don't slice your battery wires. Wrap the end in electrical tape if you have to. Better safe than having your gun smoking out in the field...... Other than the grip I suppose thats about it... We'll see you at the next Zombie Game!

G&P Metal body threads

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