Motor in a gun gamed just a few times died. Did I do something wrong?

[Quake]

Hey everyone.

So I currently run a E&C-601 that is mostly stock except for an upgraded o ring and shimming.

I run a 7.4v 1300MaH 25-50c LiPo

I have run this gun at about 5 games and never ran into an issues.

I went to a game this weekend and pulled the trigger a few times and it fired fine and then suddenly it stopped responding.

I discovered the motor was barely reacting to the trigger pull. I could feel it bump a little in my hand but that was it.

I got G&G Stock 18k motor my buddy had spare and put it in my gun and my issue is resolved.

however I am wondering what caused my motor to fail so quickly? is there a way to figure it out. I just don't want to need a new motor every 5 games.

[RainyEyes]

Did you do the shimming or someone else? How new are you at shimming?

Stock motors die all the time to bad shim jobs.

[ThunderCactus]

If you throw the older motor back in now, and it works, then it could be you let the trigger go too early, ended up with the spring fully cocked, and your motor couldn't pull it back from that point.
Or the shimming is messed up.

Without a cycle completion mosfet, make sure the cycle finishes before you let go of the trigger.

[Quake]

In reply to the shimming it was not performed by me but an experienced gun tech.

as for if the spring was cocked.

The motor was completely non functional outside of the gun.

as in I took the motor out. ran the cables to it. pulled trigger and it jumped a bit instead of spinning.

[pestobanana]

E&C internals are known to be bad. I'm not surprised at all that an E&C motor died so quickly.

Bad shimming can cause excessive wear on the motor. I am not saying your tech is bad, but there are "experienced" gun techs that are really, really bad. So, don't completely rule that out. The quality of the E&C motor is the most likely reason.

It is also possible that debris found its way inside the motor, see if you can spin the motor by hand.

[Quake]

is there a way to easily confirm if a shimming is good or not?

[pestobanana]

If you have a wattmeter, you can check for system efficiency, which is usually related to your shimming unless something else is fucked like a bad air seal, binding piston, etc. Ideal setups are 20-25% efficient. Most stock guns are closer to 10-15% efficient.

Output/Input in Watts
Output = Kinetic Energy in Joules x Rate of Fire in Rounds per Second
Input = Voltage x Current

[Quake]

So after reading your debris comment I took the 'broken' motor and was able to turn it with some pliers after a bit of force and now it seems to be functioning correctly.

Not sure what caused it to get stuck in the first place though since it is in the grip and sealed up and I can't see something getting inside the motor.

[pestobanana]

The motor needs to be removed to disassemble the gun and get to the gearbox to shim it. If you're not careful with where you place the motor, the magnets can suck shit like small screws or shims inside and jam between the armature and the magnets. Happens a lot when techs put the motor in the same bin as the other parts when they take the gun apart.

Do note though that unjamming a motor in that manner can cause serious damage to the windings.

[Quake]

thanks for the info. I am going to run the "new" motor I got and keep that one as a backup just in case since i don't really trust it now.

[pestobanana]

G&G 18k stock motors are quite reliable and well constructed. Their magnets are just bad.