AI cyclone grenade issues

[TopGunnerz]

Hey everyone, I recently bought an ai cyclone grenade, and ran into issues trying to put the end cap onto the grenade. I am on the last step of the instructions (https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/06...13147404522967) on step 4 "Reattach bottom cap" part 2 "Reattach end cap." When I screw on and make the lock ring contact the grenade body it won't go any further then where the lock pin and the grenade body first contact. I've tried screwing on the end cap with various parts in various positions and came up with nothing. Any ideas?

[BioRage]

You need to press down REAL hard, and force it on pretty tight.

After the 6-10th time, it should be fine.

[Rossco66]

Works far better with your gloves on.

Anyone have any tips for ensuring the top cover doesn't impede the BB exit? Beyond the obvious of trimming the plastic where the exit hole is.

[TopGunnerz]

Well tried it with gloves on and it worked, but jeez it's tight lol. Thanks Rossco66 and BioRage!

[BioRage]

Originally Posted by TopGunnerz

Well tried it with gloves on and it worked, but jeez it's tight lol. Thanks Rossco66 and BioRage!

Always tight when it's a virgin

@Ros, no i noticed that too, that my shitty .12 from c-tire don't all come out, but sometimes it does, Q_Q.

[amano999]

I find mine don't always discharge all the bbs as well, but they usually shoot out 80 percent of them at least. Do you find the cdn tire BB's that much cheaper? last time the price was kinda high per bb compared to the cheaper 0.20g stuff. I been using the Infinity stuff that TA sells and they work fine in the cyclones.

Anyone have a solution for the Spoon and Pin? I don't like to throw mine with the spoon, because its easy to lose and the material doesn't seem as durable. The pin is just not a quick pull if you need to nade someone in a rush either.

[BioRage]

Originally Posted by amano999

I find mine don't always discharge all the bbs as well, but they usually shoot out 80 percent of them at least. Do you find the cdn tire BB's that much cheaper? last time the price was kinda high per bb compared to the cheaper 0.20g stuff. I been using the Infinity stuff that TA sells and they work fine in the cyclones.

Anyone have a solution for the Spoon and Pin? I don't like to throw mine with the spoon, because its easy to lose and the material doesn't seem as durable. The pin is just not a quick pull if you need to nade someone in a rush either.

Thanks! Will try those next, did not know of TA selling Crapken bbs for cheaper then Walmart/C-Tire .12/.20 ones (about 18-20 tax in @_@)

I only assumed .12 would disperse better because they are technically "lighter" but, really anyone in the area going to call out regardless.

No solution, think arnies MAY have something on there... but i always remove mine, and leave it in the grenade pouch live, lol, no problems yet at siege running around.

[amano999]

I did the math before and the 0.20g bbs are cheaper right now. In the past I have bought .12g stuff on clearance and it was good but now its not.

I run too many cyclones right now to have em bouncing in my dump pouch live. Maybe I will try no pin and just duck tape the spoon on. That might work better and its a easy pull.

[dmitril]

I dremeled a slope(3-4 mm long) onto the lips so now it locks on rather easily.

[Rydock]

I had the same problem too. It goes away after the first few times. Just have to make sure the rotating detent is properly aligned and use a little bit of force.

[AnthonyG]

Yup. Just push it harder.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[SuperCriollo]

Gloves sound like a good idea.... Now I feel like an idiot for using my mouth lol

Wish they had texured that surface, a design oversight ?

[beta678]

Pro-tip on new cyclones, I've noticed every single new grenade has a bit of flashing on the detent where the nub on "base cap" indexes with on the "core". Obviously leftover from the injection molding process. Take an exacto/razer blade and trim it off, helps a bit.

After that, get a bit of silicon oil and lube the rubber seal on the bottom of the "base cap" (yes there's one there, look closely). Attach the "base cap" to the "core" (unprimed of course) and once you manage to rotate the locking ring on, twist the locking ring for a good minute or two to wear it in. After you do that, the locking ring should be much easier to rotate and the base cap should be significantly easier to attach as well.

Seems like the cyclones just need a bit of time to "wear-in"

P.S. - Actually follow the instructions and lube the damn thing. Put a drop or two or spray some silicon into the "core". I've found it helps significantly with activation and successful bb spray.

As for the spoon and pin, its just a physical safety blocking the "activation pin", don't throw the grenade with the spoon, seems like a gimmick to sell the replacement kits. Just tie the pin to the spoon, remove both before throwing. Another option I've been looking into is just sticking a folded up piece of paper between the brass "activation pin" and the side of the hole to hold the pin in place until I'm ready to use it.

[j3ttamaster]

Originally Posted by amano999

Anyone have a solution for the Spoon and Pin? I don't like to throw mine with the spoon, because its easy to lose and the material doesn't seem as durable. The pin is just not a quick pull if you need to nade someone in a rush either.

here's a few pics of what I did, they're some sort of ID tag holder. picked up a 3 pack of them from a Dollar Tree dollar store.

[MadMax]

Originally Posted by amano999

I find mine don't always discharge all the bbs as well, but they usually shoot out 80 percent of them at least. Do you find the cdn tire BB's that much cheaper? last time the price was kinda high per bb compared to the cheaper 0.20g stuff. I been using the Infinity stuff that TA sells and they work fine in the cyclones.

Anyone have a solution for the Spoon and Pin? I don't like to throw mine with the spoon, because its easy to lose and the material doesn't seem as durable. The pin is just not a quick pull if you need to nade someone in a rush either.

Here's a lanyard solution that we shot a video for:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjCErykL3uA

I like to have lanyarded spoons and loose pins personally. I don't like dealing with tethers on pins, especially to the grenade, because in my mind pins are supposed to come completely clear of the grenade. A lanyard on a spoon doesn't do anything until the grenade is free of my hand so they don't interfere with anything I need to do when the product is in my hands. That being said, I'm used to dropping pins in my dump pouch and it's easy to choose to have loose pins when I have oodles of them at work...

As to partial discharge of pellets: the Cyclone unfortunately is a bit critically balanced in terms of it's pellet vs. gas capacity. I might have been able to store more gas, but it would have sacrificed pellet capacity or mouldability of certain components. I had to tread a bit of a fine shitty line balancing things in the design of the Cyclone. The Cyclone is a very integrated device in that I haven't got big operating margins to change things. If I were to change things to improve one feature, it often came at the expense of another important feature. Still, I continue to look for ways to tweak things as it makes me itchy that certain things don't work quite right.

As to pellet weight, I find that heavier pellets work better in the Cyclone. Not only do heavier pellets carry more energy, but you get a stronger recoil and better pellet dispersion. High speed video testing showed that lighter pellets only come out slightly faster than heavier pellets which ended up carrying more energy. Gas powered projectile devices are funny in that they are not constant energy devices like spring powered AEGs. 0.30g pellets (unfortunately very uneconomical) impart so much recoil that the grenade ends up spinning in a different axis altogether even and they do really sting.

As for the spoon and pin, its just a physical safety blocking the "activation pin", don't throw the grenade with the spoon, seems like a gimmick to sell the replacement kits. Just tie the pin to the spoon, remove both before throwing. Another option I've been looking into is just sticking a folded up piece of paper between the brass "activation pin" and the side of the hole to hold the pin in place until I'm ready to use it.

We found that some of our fuze heads are a bit on the sensitive side. It's tough to pick sear angles that result in a sensitive enough impact threshold yet insensitive enough to resist shaking or jostling of a vigorous throw so I went with a spoon design that locks out the firing pin until the spoon is thrown. We really don't recommend improvising ways to lock out the firing pin because you risk an unintentional discharge of your grenade, say in the safe zone where everyone has their goggles off. Do not do things that put your fellow players at risk.