September 30th, 2012, 18:42 | #91 |
Here:
The Glock Thread! Post your Pistol! The 1911 Thread Everyone in the Community have far better pistols than I do. Some of them I cater my builds to. Such good looking guns....
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"May you fight with the strength of ten full grown men." |
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September 30th, 2012, 20:44 | #92 |
Do you have any more pictures of the one with the tan frame / silver slide and can you list the specs? Its pretty sexy, I want to build up my we like that.
Last edited by drewroud; September 30th, 2012 at 21:44.. |
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September 30th, 2012, 23:53 | #93 | |
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"May you fight with the strength of ten full grown men." Last edited by e-luder; October 1st, 2012 at 00:13.. |
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October 1st, 2012, 02:47 | #94 |
Last edited by turok_t; October 7th, 2017 at 12:38.. |
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October 1st, 2012, 12:00 | #95 |
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"May you fight with the strength of ten full grown men." |
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October 1st, 2012, 12:10 | #96 |
My Glock 17 many many moons ago..I don't have that slide, frame or TLR-1 left.... |
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October 3rd, 2012, 22:07 | #97 |
Sorry for the late reply, I am super busy with school and sports.
I started to think about the enhanced return spring and I stumbled upon short stroking and shock buffers. I have a list of questions. 1. What part of the slide / frame absorbs the impact of the frame coming forward? I am pretty sure that when the slide racks back, the spring absorbs the impact since without the rod in, the slide goes back further. The reason I ask why I that I wonder if a stronger spring would cause more wear and tear on specific parts. 2. DO Shock Buffers help absorb the impact of the motion of the slide? If not, what is the point of them. 3. If you use something soft to shortstroke the spring, like o rings, would this serve the same purpose as shock buffers? 4. What is the point of buying a stronger spring and short stroke it? Wouldnt the recoil be the same as a standard strength spring? 5. I cant visualize how the schock buffers affect the spring. Right now in my gun, the orings are placed so that the spring can fully compress, but If I add one more, it does not. Does the spring get fully compressed when I add more o rings? I was troubleshooting one of my leaky army mags and I took off the top gasket. When I tried to put it back one, it would not seat properly with the magazine and it would sit about a half centimeter high. The rubber is on correctly. Even if I pressed it down SUPER HARD, it would not seat flush. Because of this, I broke the wholes in the plastic magazine gasket. 7. Can you explain why this happened and are there any replacements you recommend? The only one I have found is by building fire. Army mags suck. So right now I have come to the conclusion that I need to either buy marui or we mags. We's have worked fine so far without any problems. Ok 8. What parts need to be modified to have a full auto g17? Just thinking about it,for sure dont want it. 9. What is different in a glock 18c mechanism? DO you have any pictures of the tan and silver glock 17 internals? Do you have any pictures of shock buffers ? short stroke on glocks? |
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October 4th, 2012, 04:29 | #98 | ||||||||||
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A stronger spring will always cause more stress on some parts of the gun as opposed to the weaker stock one. What you have to watch out for is the screw casing on the front the of the lower assembly. This is the first component that usually breaks on Marui glocks. WE's frame seems sturdier than Marui's to be honest. But I can't say for sure that WE has addressed this flaw with their frame. Mine hasn't broken yet but I don't use it all that often to begin with. There have also been reports of the WE outerbarrels breaking very easily. I've heard that the barrel splits in half or severs at the base of the chamber. But again I can't comment on this issue because I haven't ran into it personally. Quote:
You can't really avoid the kinetic energy of the slide moving forward. most of that energy is created on the slide itself , not the internals. Quote:
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If your spring is a weak spring, the spring will fully compress. If you have something like a stiff 150% spring, it won't because the spring would be too powerful. It also depends on the amount of coils and how stiff that the spring has. For example, The Shooter's Design spring has less coils and is shorter but is more stiff. Guarder's has more coils and is longer than Shooter's Design spring but is less stiff. Both of these springs are measured to 150% strength. Remember that springs get harder to compress when they "coil up". So if you already made it so that the spring is already compressed (adding buffers) to begin with, it will be even harder for it to compress even further when the trigger is pulled. Quote:
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...Or you can just buy a Glock 18c. Quote:
The trigger bar is different(G18c has a thicker trigger bar). The hammer housing is different (has different cuts and pins). The rear sight and mounting screw is different. ...and so on and so on. You can't swap the internals of the two. ..nor the slide. Quote:
There's one I made from things I found around the house. Get resourceful!! Use everything in your household!!! EDIT: You'll you've stroked the gun if the slide catch doesn't engage on empty. This is because the slide can't travel far enough since the buffers will be blocking its path.
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"May you fight with the strength of ten full grown men." Last edited by e-luder; October 4th, 2012 at 19:41.. |
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October 11th, 2012, 11:40 | #99 |
Probably a good place to ask this, whats the compatibility for the KJW G23 to the TM parts? I think time-wise the KJW came out after the TM G26 but before the TM G17. Does it have the G26 hop-up(which I believe is different to rest of the TM spec)? Can it use the inner barrel made for the rest of the TM GBB? What about nozzle/cylinder? I am assuming parts like hammer spring is compatible. Thus far I've only used the TM G17 sights on the KJW G23 and its drop in.
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October 11th, 2012, 12:06 | #100 |
AFAIK, the KJW G23 is compatible with parts from the TM G17. however, I don't know from experience, but The TM G17 is based off its previous designs of the glock 26 and 26A, and the KJW G23 is based off of the G26 and G26A. The TM G17 is basically the G26A re-packaged.
And the TM inner barrel for all TM GBBs are the same. My glock inner barrel will fit my 1911 and vice versa. And i'm pretty sure the the hop unit is the same across all models (KJW/TM). KJW G23 TM G26 TM G17 |
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October 11th, 2012, 12:16 | #101 |
TM Glock 26 is the only TM GBB that uses a different inner barrel cut and hopup AFAIK to the rest of the TM line. It was their first GBB with hop-up IIRC, and that design was altered slightly to become the current design.
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October 11th, 2012, 19:09 | #102 |
I did a few more mods on my upper assembly. First, I installed enough o rings so that the gun is shortstroked just by a mew millimeters. Now the slide does not go back far enough to get locked on the new trigger bar but still has enough clearance to get locked by the slide catch.
The second thing I did was add normal tape to the side of the bbu, because there was a slight wobble. Now there is no wobble and I tightened the rear sight screw. Indoors, the gun was shooting pretty well. I took it outside today and it sucked. This is because it is pretty cold outside and the mags were freezing. I noticed that it started to shoot full auto, and since this is only because the bbu does not lock down the hammer, I checked the bbu once again. The area where the bearing hits the bbu is broken and the back of the nozzle is exposed. Also, the problem with the slide not going forward all the way and the hop up unit not working reoccurred. I came back inside, lubed it, and made sure the mags were toasty and went back inside. My new mag seems to be working better, the slide locked back after all the bbs were gone. The hop up unit worked and the bbs flew straight except for when the gas started to run out. Once again, the main problem seems to be that the nozzle fits tightly inside of the bucking. When I put silicone on the nozzle, it enters and leaves the nozzle very smoothly, but once the lube dries up, the same problems occur: the slide does not go forward all the way and therefore the hop up does not work. Any advice? Tomorrow I will stop by a hardware store to pick up some new tools along with paint stripper so I can strip the paint off of my guide rod, barrel stop, and body pins. |
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October 11th, 2012, 19:58 | #103 |
I've got the same problem of the nozle on g17 and hi-capa with Modify and 9ball hopup rubbers........
Mine was a problem related to the lube of the greengas I was used to usue. After chance brand of gas all start to work good. Now I use hopup rubber and nozle from Aip and all works great. This is mine one, for the moment use abs slider but I mount a kit whit fixed barrel and light BBhousing Here with 0,25 bb the BB Housing is the one on the right the inner of the slider compared with a stock marui |
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October 11th, 2012, 20:21 | #104 | |
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As I stated in the past, a stronger recoil spring should fix your slide issue. A stronger spring will give the slide return a higher velocity. Thus, it should force your loading muzzle into the bucking more effectively. The side effect is that, depending on how stiff the recoil spring, it may end up short stroking your gun. The other option is already suggested above. Buy a new and SOFTER hop up bucking. did you chrono your gun yet? I'm curious to know what the power outage is on your gun.
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October 17th, 2012, 22:04 | #105 | |
Here's a new report to add:
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