FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

The cans fail a lot of international safety standards. There are some threads on Arnies Airsoft that have pictures showing what happens to people's cars when they leave a can of green gas in there on a hot day summer day. Literally explodes a hole through the roof of the car.

What PungPound71 is saying makes sense, and I also have the same belief. The faster the slide blows backwards, the sooner the disconnect lever will release the valve knocker, thus, reducing gas consumption.

Reducing gas consumption in the slide movement requires:
1) Reducing moving mass: weight of the slide and all components that move with it.
2) Reducing forward or static pressures that restrict reward movement of the slide: recoil spring

Ah I see. I doubt anyone in HK will store the green gas bottles anywhere that can build up a lot of ambient heat so green gas bottles exploding had never even crossed my mind before ><;

As for what PungPound71 was saying..I get it now after ou rephrased it
Yes, I believe the same thing too in that case. Thanks for clearing it up for me!

[simohayha]

@scottyfox: a friend of mine have the same problem like yours on his build and just like what illusion said the problem is in the nozzle. The standard tm ones is not cracked but the moment he switch the nozzle to SD ones. Problems gone. Went from half magz to ane and a half per gas fill.

And about those green gas tanks. I just bought guarder brown colored gas and only after 2 games, it wont fill my mags anymore, its still rather heavy and i can feel the content of the can when i shake it, but even by manually pushing the pin, theres no gas coming out of the can. Can it be fixed?

[Pungpound71]

Originally Posted by intinerious

As for what PungPound71 was saying..I get it now after ou rephrased it
Yes, I believe the same thing too in that case. Thanks for clearing it up for me!

Sorry to everyone, my English getting rusty since I've graduated from university almost 20 years ago.

Originally Posted by ILLusion

What PungPound71 is saying makes sense, and I also have the same belief. The faster the slide blows backwards, the sooner the disconnect lever will release the valve knocker, thus, reducing gas consumption.

Reducing gas consumption in the slide movement requires:
1) Reducing moving mass: weight of the slide and all components that move with it.
2) Reducing forward or static pressures that restrict reward movement of the slide: recoil spring

Thank you for helping me explain it in correct English language.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by scottyfox

Just disassembled and there are no cracks to the nozzle that I could see unless it could be microscopic?, but it is the stock assembly...

If it is cracked, they're usually quite hard to see. Typically, the nozzle will have to be squeezed and pushed on all sides to expose the crack.

[Aceofspades]

I've got a quick question if you guys don't mind;

I have a TM Desert Warrior 4.3, and I picked up a Shooters Design Heavy Stainless outer barrel to go along with it. My hop chamber is stock, albeit the inner barrel being a PDI 6.01. When I attempt to install the outer barrel with the inner chamber/IB into the slide, everything gets locked up. The inner chamber set doesn't "tilt", per say, as it used to in the stock TM plastic outer barrel. I've heard that you need to modify the bushing in order to get the entire thing to fit properly, but I'm not exactly sure what needs modification on it. It seems as though the cut of the outer barrel itself isn't quite sitting right with the cuts on the hopup unit, allowing it to move forwards and backwards as it should in the outer barrel. If it helps, I believe my gun currently has a Guarder 'Kimber' metal slide at the moment, and my BBU is stock.

Is this a common issue? Any advice? I can provide pictures if needed. Thanks!

[ILLusion]

What is this "bushing" you speak of?

You should always be matching brands between slide and barrel... otherwise, you're on your own. Every brand has its own tolerance level and engineered interface. By mixing it up, you are introducing problems.

[Aceofspades]

The recoil spring bushing, to be exact (that's just what I was told, so I'm confused as to how the two would relate). I have a feeling that the problem lies in the outer barrel/inner chamber fitting, as I noticed that they aren't seating flush with one another. Even after tilting the chamber to slide it in, once it's in place it isn't quit clearing the lip of the outer barrel. I'm guessing that it's designed to remove the forward/backward shifting motion altogether? If that's right, then should the entrance of the hop chamber be sticking out more than the entrance of the outer barrel 'chamber'?

[ILLusion]

I can't see how the recoil rod bushing would have anything to do with it. The description of your problem doesn't even have anything to do with that.

Shooters Design barrels are ALL tilting style. They do not have fixed barrels.

For all intents and purposes, when the assembly is together, it should look JUST LIKE the original Marui setup.

The hop up chamber's entrance DOES stick out the rear of the chamber.

I can't help you beyond that, as I can't picture your descriptions. Pictures speak a thousand words.

[Aceofspades]

I'm just as confused as you are in that respect haha I was told "Just use a dremel on your bushing, it should be a quick 2 minute fix"

Well, I'm not sure what to say about mine, then. Once the inner barrel and chamber are installed, there's zero movement whatsoever. When put together, the assembly unfortunately doesn't look the same at all. It juts out the back about 1/2" or so.

I'll attempt to upload a picture when I'm on break. Hopefully it's something simple that I'm overlooking!

[Aceofspades]

Here's a post I found earlier on in this thread that sounds like it's somewhat relevant to my problem (I'm still sifting through every single page to see if an answer lies within this thread...somewhere..haha)

Originally Posted by RacingManiac

SD ones needs to be fitted, since they are still the tilting barrel type, you need to break some sharp corners with files to make sure it works smoothly....

I use SDs in my 1911 since I like to have the realistic barrel lockup and once fitted they have little to no play.

I did notice that mine has a few sharp corners where it engages the inner hop unit, and I also noticed that there's little to no play when I've attempted to install the outer barrel into my slide. Do I simply need to file down these edges?

Pics:
Showing the chamber sticking out from the outer SD barrel
http://img262.imageshack.us/i/20110215190235164.jpg

Showing the positioning of the SD grooves/corners in question
http://img14.imageshack.us/i/20110215190313871.jpg

Stock TM barrel fitting
http://img714.imageshack.us/i/20110215190402356.jpg

Showing a close up of the TM barrel notches/fitting
http://img442.imageshack.us/i/20110215190455740.jpg

And a close up of the SD barrel notches/fitting
http://img40.imageshack.us/i/20110215190544357.jpg

[ILLusion]

First of all, all of the "edges" that RacingManiac is referring to is not what you think. He's referring to the chamber lugs, which you've completely missed.

Secondly, a photo speaks a thousand words, and based on your photos, I've identified your "problem."

It's not really a problem... more like, what you have in your hand is not what you think it is.
The brand of your outer barrel has been incorrectly identified. Unless Shooters Design started coming out with a new product recently, that is most definitely NOT an SD outer barrel. Confirm this by trying to unscrew the outer barrel from the chamber. If you can't separate it, then it's NOT a Shooters Design outer barrel. All of Shooter Design's Hi-Capa/1911 outer barrels are two part tilting design.

One of your guesses was correct: This is a fixed type barrel. Judging by the features, it actually looks exactly like one of the ones I sell.

Where did you get this barrel? Did you specifically ask for Shooters Design? If so, or you were expecting a Shooters Design product, you ended up receiving something else.

[Aceofspades]

I picked this barrel up from a classified ad on Airsoftretreat. The seller informed me that it was made by Shooters Design, so that's where I pulled my assumptions.

Upon closer inspection, I noticed the trades on the chamber state "AS Super Match". So - through the magic of Google, I've discovered that it's in fact an Airsoft Surgeon outer barrel. Guess I just completely missed that one!

So now I'm unsure of what to do. Should I attempt to fiddle with it to get it to fit, or try to sell it off and pick up a more compatible outer barrel? Preferably one that will work well in conjunction with a Guarder metal slide

[ILLusion]

What type of problems are you getting? I'm not sure I understood what you meant by "it locks up." What is locking up? What is it doing that it's not suppose to do? And/or what is it NOT doing what it IS suppose to do?

[Aceofspades]

The outer barrel jams up in the slide and the end of the outer barrel chamber doesn't fully connect/seal with the back end of the ejection port. So basically - upon pulling back the slide, it moves freely, but when I let the slide go it slams home and gets stuck, leaving a gap between the aforementioned areas. When I say "Locks up" I mean it REALLY locks up - I have to grab a flat screwdriver to unjam the outer barrel/slide.

Would the easier route be to simply pick up a Guarder outer barrel to go along with the Guarder slide? I noticed that the AS outer barrel says that it's for the TM hicapa 4.3, but that might mean that it's meant for the stock TM plastic slide instead of this Guarder Kimber metal one.

EDIT: Here are a few more pictures. Upon further investigation, I've found that it is indeed the recoil rod bushing causing the problem.

Here is the outer barrel installed without the recoil rod/spring/bushing. Notice it's sitting flush, as it should


Upon my attempt to insert the recoil rod bushing only, I noticed resistance at this point


If I try to install all of the components together, this is the result



So, it appears that the bushing is jamming itself into the outer barrel, and the force of the recoil spring is shoving itself against the flare of the outer barrel, shoving the entire assembly forward as you can see in the pictures. Have you ever seen or heard of an issue like that before?

[intinerious]

Hi Brian,

Can you tell me what is the highest FPS (+bb weight) you've reached with a modified 5.1 length barreled hi capa on green gas? I just want a feel of what a 5.1 Hi Capa can achieve.

I've been planning to install the following:

Nine Ball hop rubber
Nine Ball mag rubber (on CO2 mag)
PDI 6.01mm 112.5mm TB
Action Aluminium Piston Head
RRC power up bulb
Nine Ball stiff floating valve spring

on a KJW 5.1 hi capa clone (kp-05). I'm hoping (with CO2) to get over 2J (yes above HK's limit) with the setup above and if it does get over 2J, I'll replace the RRC valve with an RATECH NPAS to keep it legal.

Using the KJW clone because its 95% compatible with the TM hi capa (from what I've gathered with my local sources) and anything that's not compatible can be remedied when I decide to further upgrade to another metal kit meant for TM hi capas. Plus the cost of everything should be the lowest possible for a dependable, hard hitting sidearm at ~HKD1500.