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Mechbox Review - Lonex drop-in mechbox

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Old May 12th, 2013, 22:29   #76
Stealth
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Join Date: Dec 2001
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The selector plate and cutoff lever should have little nubs to hold the spring in place. If they are not present, you need a new selector plate and/or cut-off lever.

If your mechbox is clicking, chances are your sector gear is in a position where it's setting off the trigger sled. Nothing to be worried about, it should cycle fine.
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Old May 12th, 2013, 22:44   #77
coach
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Once you put the mech box in a receiver, that spring doesn't tend to pop off.
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Old May 13th, 2013, 18:12   #78
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My lonex gearbox i failing at about 1000 rounds. Fires sparatic full auto in semi. Opening it up tonight to check it out
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Old May 13th, 2013, 18:13   #79
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Originally Posted by Adamlxlx View Post
My lonex gearbox i failing at about 1000 rounds. Fires sparatic full auto in semi. Opening it up tonight to check it out
Sounds like your trigger prongs need to be adjusted. Either that or your cutoff lever is done, the former being more likely as the Lonex cutoff lever is pretty touch.

I'm on my 2nd full season on the box, aside from opening it up to install a FET it's doing alright.
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Old May 13th, 2013, 20:09   #80
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Most likely. The issue started out as a dead trigger. Thought it was motor terninals but they were good. Opened it up and thr contacts looked a bit spread so i tightened them up a bit and this happened. I just opened the gearbox and aligned them better. Hopefully it works. I am getting power to the motor i just havent tried it in the receiver yet. I will let ya know.
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Old May 13th, 2013, 20:12   #81
Stealth
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Most likely. The issue started out as a dead trigger. Thought it was motor terninals but they were good. Opened it up and thr contacts looked a bit spread so i tightened them up a bit and this happened. I just opened the gearbox and aligned them better. Hopefully it works. I am getting power to the motor i just havent tried it in the receiver yet. I will let ya know.
Ahh that makes sense. Basically you might have tightened the prongs too much meaning that the trigger sled makes electrical contact and your trigger isn't far back enough for the cutoff lever to disconnect it.

If you try a firm quick squeeze all the way to the rear, you'll understand what I mean. Compare that with squeezing the trigger half-way and dawdling it.

Last edited by Stealth; May 13th, 2013 at 20:25..
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Old May 13th, 2013, 20:28   #82
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Well a full squeeze would give me the full auto in semi and a half squeeze would give me semi. Hopefully i have it figured out. Not at home at the moment.
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Old May 13th, 2013, 20:36   #83
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Well a full squeeze would give me the full auto in semi and a half squeeze would give me semi. Hopefully i have it figured out. Not at home at the moment.
That seems completely opposite of what I would expect.
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Old May 13th, 2013, 20:44   #84
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Well a full squeeze would give me the full auto in semi and a half squeeze would give me semi. Hopefully i have it figured out. Not at home at the moment.
What was your order #?

Sneaking suspicion it's the trigger post that snapped. Email me at sales@airsoftstore.ca and I'll get you sorted out.

John
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Old May 13th, 2013, 21:48   #85
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Trigger post is all good. It was one od the first things i checked. I will have to go back and look for my order #
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Old June 25th, 2013, 18:03   #86
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I am thinking about getting one of these for my vfc hk416, would i need the rear wired m4 version, or the rear wired m16a2 version? Also, do these fit in the vfc body without any trouble? I dont want to have to bust out the dremel. And one last thing, I heard these are picky about motor cages, so would this box play nice with the stock vfc motor and cage, or do i need a different set up there?

Thanks!
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Old June 25th, 2013, 20:40   #87
Stealth
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You should probably get the rear-wired M4 version for the right cylinder volume.

Yes Lonex boxes are a direct clone of VFC shells and are tested to work with VFC bodies with no modification. VFC HK416's don't have motorcages... are you referring to the pistol grip? Mine worked with a MOE grip without issues.
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Old June 25th, 2013, 21:04   #88
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In mine it fits a bit loose, compared to the stock vfc box, but it isnt a problem at all. The only thing, is that these lonex mechbox come with very short wires, not ideal for a collapsible stock/.
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Old July 23rd, 2013, 15:13   #89
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In mine it fits a bit loose, compared to the stock vfc box, but it isnt a problem at all. The only thing, is that these lonex mechbox come with very short wires, not ideal for a collapsible stock/.
how short are we talking here?I want to run a short tamiya to deans adaptor to My numchuck battery in my stock. I only need it to extend out a couple of notches. it's it long enough? also, did you have any issues getting the rear body pin out on your 416? Mine seems to be sick in pretty good
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Old July 23rd, 2013, 15:17   #90
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how short are we talking here?I want to run a short tamiya to deans adaptor to My numchuck battery in my stock. I only need it to extend out a couple of notches. it's it long enough? also, did you have any issues getting the rear body pin out on your 416? Mine seems to be sick in pretty good
It comes out a 4cm or so. Why not cut off the Tamiya and run it straight to Deans?...

The body pin doesn't come out entirely as there's a retention clip holding it. After removing everything (grip, trigger pin, mag release, stock tube), you can use a tool to push out on the pin whilst wiggling the mechbox free. Alternatively, if you look where the pin is, you should be able to see the retention clip, a small screwdriver should be sufficient to pop the clip loose.
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