March 21st, 2011, 23:22 | #76 |
Alright I took photos and I plan to go buy a new cable tomorrow before work. I'll have them uploaded tomorrow night.
Hopefully someone will be able to give me some insight |
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March 22nd, 2011, 21:41 | #77 |
Ok here are the shots with their explanation.
I've uploaded these shots with ImageShack so if theres any problems and some people can't see them please suggest a better upload website and I will load them. So this is my slide without the hammer mechanism, just posted in case someone spots something funny. http://img101.imageshack.us/i/img2155l.jpg/ This is a photo of what the inside looks like when the hammer is disengaged. Now I noticed something funny, usually when the gun is cocked the trigger is enganged and is centered in the trigger guard. However, when the slide is not on, the trigger is disengaged when the trigger arm ( I don't know what it is called but it connects into the trigger mechanism and resets the trigger when pressed ) is ready. http://img535.imageshack.us/i/img2157fy.jpg/ This is what my hammer assembly currently looks like (of course that piece and the spring are next to it because I couldn't hold them in place while taking a picture) http://img715.imageshack.us/i/img2158ux.jpg/ This is the top view of the assembly when the hammer is cocked (remember it doesn't fully uncock, but can be replaced into cocked position) http://img25.imageshack.us/i/img2161qy.jpg/ A side view to demonstrate how the hammer won't go all the way up http://img88.imageshack.us/i/img2164l.jpg/ Angled, same thing http://img545.imageshack.us/i/img2165f.jpg/ This is how I placed my 150% spring on the piece that it goes on....am I doing it wrong? http://img543.imageshack.us/i/img2166g.jpg/ And this is what it looks like with the original spring ( I seriously don't get why it won't work even with the original spring...its as if taking apart the trigger mechanism renders it unoperable forever) http://img832.imageshack.us/i/img2167ep.jpg/ I'm sorry for all the url's, it has been a while since I've used an online forum and I don't remember how to get thumbnails and for somereason switching url for img doesn't fix it If someone reminds me I will edit the post for easier viewing. Thank you guys so much for any and all help! |
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March 22nd, 2011, 22:42 | #78 |
are u sure thats how the hammer spring is supposed to go? im no expert myself because i only opened the hammer assembly once, so I dont want to give false advice. But isnt the smaller tip of the hammer spring supposed to be resting on the flat block of the hammer?
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March 22nd, 2011, 22:45 | #79 |
Well to be honest I didn't take a picture of the hammer spring before I took it apart since it kinda fell apart the first time.
Thing is, the instruction manual has an exploded diagram and according to the diagram that is how it goes. However, I really really want to confirm this .... |
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March 22nd, 2011, 23:00 | #80 |
Oh my f-ing jesus.
You sir, have just fixed my gun! I can't believe I didn't see it before, I feel so retarded. The diagram doesn't necessarily show how to put the spring in...and...I guess I got it wrong. I tried it your way and it worked, it was harder to put (naturally since its a 150% spring) back into place but it works. I just tested it, and my gas magazine that i've had gased for a week now shot off a shot beautifully. Slide catch activated and everything. I'm so f-ing happy you have no idea man, you made my night and then some! I thought i just bought a gun and broke it, and was going to have to spend cash on repairing it.... Thank you so much for the advice, I can't thank you enough for putting me back into perspective! + 1,000,000 internet points to you. |
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March 23rd, 2011, 01:54 | #81 |
ahh well...what can I say
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October 27th, 2011, 03:17 | #82 |
Sorry to necro this thread but for peace sake, I have to ask.
I want to know if anybody have hard time to install valve knocker on the glock 18c along with upgrade hammer spring, I have very hard time to put that valve knocker back together or maybe I did it wrong, any close up photo or video on that area especially valve knocker would be appreciate, thanks. |
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November 2nd, 2011, 16:58 | #83 |
formerly aBseNtceLL
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It's a bit of a challenge to hold the hammer and valve knocker in place with the 150% spring, all I did was use a punch to hold the parts in place then installed the pin and pushed the punch out slowly. I also had to press the hammer/valve knocker up and in a bit as I installed the pin so it would seat properly.
Unfortunately I just sold my Glock 18C so I can't show you on that but I still have my Glock 17 for time time being so I might be able to throw something together if you still can't get it. |
June 6th, 2012, 02:56 | #84 |
I have had my G18c gbb for a few months now and it works incredibly well stock. I really do not see the how running these guns on propane is worth all the problems it seems to cause. I am curious however what fps you get with certain upgrades as this would help range in thick brush.
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June 6th, 2012, 03:08 | #85 | |
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June 6th, 2012, 03:28 | #86 |
Most 18c's work fine on propane, stock. People have shot thousands of rounds before getting a cracked slide or damaged screw post. At that time you simply upgrade to a metal slide or Guarder frame (which IMO feels MUCH more authentic than the smooth glossy plasticky Marui frame).
Propane will put you at around 290-300 fps stock on semi. Can be upped to 330-340ish with high flow valves/hammer spring/steel hammer/nozzle valve/piston/tightbore barrel.
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H&K G36c (KWA) / Glock 18c (TM) / Kimber LAPD SWAT Custom (TM) / Mossberg M500 (ACM) |
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May 22nd, 2013, 14:20 | #87 |
For those still interested.
I bought a TM G18c, and as a stock gun it feels very plasticky. Some highly recommended upgrades
Happy hunting! http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...zGhtwTfY#t=39s |
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May 22nd, 2013, 15:48 | #88 |
I only bought this gun about 1.5 years ago and sold it soon after buying it because:
- most of the time you cant even use the full auto feature. Most games in CQB are semi-only, and if its not semi only throughout the entire field, its always semi only once you go into buildings/structures which makes the full auto option completely useless during games - This gun is one of the worst TM guns in terms of overall weight and gun balance. I was fine with the fact that I could almost never use the full auto feature during games. What I could not stand was how light + poorly balanced this gun really is. I found that a large majority of the time I was aiming the gun too high, because of how light the front of the gun really is. It got to the point that I stopped gaming with it because I couldnt stand how inaccurate (due to weight, not the actual function of the gun) the gun really was. Its extremely frustrating when you play CQB and you constantly question why you not making the kills because you pointing the front end of the gun too high/low. To counter this,i sold beucase I bought an TM 1911 MEU and the 5.1 Match custom, and both of those bad boys were much more heftier, an were 1000000x better in the overall balance department. During quick draws or quick target acquisition was when the Light weight of the Glock had me aiming the front of the gun too hight. Also, I have had multiple people tell me the same thing regarding the G18 and it being horribly balanced.... |
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June 15th, 2013, 13:38 | #89 | |
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I discovered the same thing too, when you're focusing on your target, the muzzle involuntarily climbs up and you are firing BB's over your opponents heads. I don't have this issue with my KWA CZ75 so I am sure it's the Glock's poor weight distribution that's at fault.
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Cyma SVD (CM057A) Real Sword Type 97B VFC SCAR-L Black Tokyo Marui G18C KWA CZ75 Double Eagle triburst shotgun Cyma AKS-74UN (CM045A) |
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June 15th, 2013, 14:04 | #90 |
The grip angle is also a factor in your aim, especially if your use to 1911 style grip angles, which is why I stick to 1911s and Sigs, just didn't feel comfortable or shoot well with the Glock both RS and AS. To remedy this you can add a after market beaver tail grip which is commonly found on the Custom TM Glocks.
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