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FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

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Old January 22nd, 2011, 10:10   #811
ILLusion
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Originally Posted by juicy View Post
True that. I didn't mean it would fit/function in a Hi-Capa/1911/P226, I just meant it seemed like a neat part that I haven't seen for the Glock series as of yet.
Actually, the Action bulb was built and marketed as a universal part: Fits Hi-Capas, 1911, P226, as well as Glock.

There are slightly different lengths between each of these parts, but it does seem to function the same.

Last edited by ILLusion; January 22nd, 2011 at 10:17..
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Old January 22nd, 2011, 19:02   #812
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Does anyone have any experience with 5KU hicapa frames? Is it made of pot metal like the marui stuff and turn brown/orange when sanded? Im just curious bc 5KU has frames that look exactly the same as SD and it costs half as much. Thanks for the input.
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Old January 22nd, 2011, 19:13   #813
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Originally Posted by turok_t View Post
Does anyone have any experience with 5KU hicapa frames? Is it made of pot metal like the marui stuff and turn brown/orange when sanded? Im just curious bc 5KU has frames that look exactly the same as SD and it costs half as much. Thanks for the input.
They actually look like a clone of the ILLusion Kinetics product, due to these clues:

- Monolithic rails
- Drop-in hammer block assembly (vs a cover plate like the Marui design.)

Also, eHobby's product description should give you an idea regarding material and manufacturing process:
5KU CNC Chassis
-- Aluminum Construction

Can't say the alloy that's used, but I'd assume 6061 or a similar grade. Die-casting doesn't hold up well to excessive machining.

Also, it looks like the hammer block assembly looks to be made from the same material (aluminum), which will deform from hammer impact over time (if it is, in fact, made from aluminum.) The ILLusion Kinetics frames use a steel insert. Same steel alloy as ILLusion Kinetics hammer sets (China grade P20 steel.) Matching alloys means greater resistance to deformation against both parts.
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Old January 22nd, 2011, 19:17   #814
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Hey brian, i was doing a search for al lthe 5KU frames on ehobby, and they all say LDC, but the pictures dont reflect that since they all apear to be the standard short length... what do u think?

Also, do u know the fitment of 5KU frames with SD slides?
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Old January 22nd, 2011, 19:20   #815
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Originally Posted by turok_t View Post
Hey brian, i was doing a search for al lthe 5KU frames on ehobby, and they all say LDC, but the pictures dont reflect that since they all apear to be the standard short length... what do u think?

Also, do u know the fitment of 5KU frames with SD slides?
They all say LDC, because they are. Look more carefully at the pictures. They're definitely not standard length dust covers.

Sorry, I don't know about fitment with SD slides.

My experience with 5KU's product line is extremely minimal and unrelated to their pistol products, nor would I support their product at any capacity. Their products are direct rip offs of two technologically innovative product brands that I carry and support.

Last edited by ILLusion; January 22nd, 2011 at 19:58..
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Old January 23rd, 2011, 04:41   #816
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Originally Posted by ILLusion View Post
They all say LDC, because they are. Look more carefully at the pictures. They're definitely not standard length dust covers.

Sorry, I don't know about fitment with SD slides.

My experience with 5KU's product line is extremely minimal and unrelated to their pistol products, nor would I support their product at any capacity. Their products are direct rip offs of two technologically innovative product brands that I carry and support.
Ah thanks Brian. Yeah, I did have another look and they are slightly longer than standard length. I guess ill just go with the SD frame to fit my SD slide then. Thanks!
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Old January 23rd, 2011, 13:02   #817
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Hey Brian,

I've recently bought the v1911 light (a replica of the Surefire 310) that VFC came out with, and tried to fit it on my MEU. Apparently, the curved part of the frame from the trigger guard to the muzzle end of the lower frame of an MEU is different from a standard 1911 lower frame. The MEU's frame is more 'square'-ish whilst the 1911 is more curved in comparison with the MEU.

The problem with the v1911 light is that (1) the Marui spec one provides perfect fitment with a 1911 frame but not the MEU frame (I've attached a pic for reference) and (2) the mag catch provided is slightly larger at the end and was not machined properly like the stock marui mag catch (it's 'flat' at the back as opposed to the dented back like the stock mag catch).

The problem with (1) is that it kinda fits the plastic stock MEU frame as I believe there is enough flexure for the frame to bend and allow the mag catch to lock the light into place. With a PGC frame however (from a friend of mine), the light does not fit because the mag catch hole from the light does not align with the frame. With (2), I can fix the mag catch by filing the back of the catch itself so that the slide locks. The mag catch, without any work done on it, will not lock the slide because the mag spring tension isn't strong enough to overcome the resistance that the spring from the little pin that pushes against the mag catch on the frame.

I was planning to get myself a Nova or PGC MEU kit, but now that I realised it won't work with an MEU frame, I'm trying to find a Nova kit that would allow me to attach the light (the curve on the frame is the same as a 1911) and allow me to install a beavertail grip. I've found 2 frames that MIGHT work, but I'm not sure. One is the SFA Vicker's frame and the other is the MARSOC frame (none of the PGC frames seem to work)

Can you confirm whether the curve on the frames is similar to a 1911 and not the MEU?

If there isn't any CNC'd slide that would work with the light, then the only option I'm left with is the VFC MEU MBK. I know that it's die-cast and then CNC'd, but the asthetics aren't as good as the Nova kits and the trades aren't the same as an early model MEU (from one of your post in this forum). However, are the trades on the slide and frame realistic though? Meaning that in RS the trades on the lower frame exist and so does the slide? As a last resort, if the VFC kit's markings are 'real' but not 'realistic', I can live with that.

Also, do you know if there are aftermarket 1911 mil-spec grip safeties, preferably made with steel? I've been searching all the webshops and it seems like people who want to build a mil-spec 1911a1 will need to use the stock marui grip safety since an aftermarket part doesn't exist (I've searched ProG4s webshop as well, nothing's listed under 'Grip Safety'). I was hoping that another alternative for me to fit the VFC light to a metal kit was to transform my MEU to a 1911 instead (I have my sights on the PGC Delta Elite kit), but I don't have the correct grip safety to change my MEU to a 1911.

It really sucks to buy something expecting it to fit perfectly (it's just a damn light!) and then you find out there are slight differences that completely screws up your build Other than the fitment issues though; the VFC light is freakin awesome! Sure, it's not a complete replica of the Surefire 310 (fake trades, no pressure pad, different switch system for activating the light) but it's damn bright with a surefire battery and the thing feels like it's built to take abuse; it's quite hefty. Which is also good since the weight distribution is shifted from the grip to the front of the trigger, negating a lot of recoil on a stock MEU/1911. For what it's worth, its the best thing we can get to a surefire 310 since the real deal have ceased its production.
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Old January 23rd, 2011, 16:06   #818
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It sounds like you're referring to the dust cover.

I've never handled either the Nova SFA Vicker's frame, nor the MARSOC frame (I'm not even sure what brand of kit you're referring to there), so I couldn't tell you how it compares.

Secondly, I've never seen that light before, so I can't offer any advice on it.

Since you're in Hong Kong, if there's anybody on this forum that would have easy access to see parts in person to try different things out, I'd say it's you. Drop in to a retail shop and say you have the light, want to fit it to a frame, but want to try it on the frame to see if it'd fit. Bring the light along as well. Even better, if it's the same retailer you bought the light from. If the retailer isn't concerned with you scratching their product and thinks they can make a sale, they may allow it to happen. But, knowing how some HK shopkeepers are, I'd say you may have to pressure them in to it.

Regarding the VFC kit, it's a replica of the early model. The Tokyo Marui version of the MEU is a LATE model. you've mixed them around. As for realism... I've never handled a real one (late OR early models), and I've never spent the time on researching that particular model, so unfortunately, I can't provide you confirmation of accuracy/realism in that regard. That research will be all on you, so do your own homework. But for what it's worth, VFC has always been one of the better companies in terms of making accurate replicas.

As for grip safeties, what is your definition of "mil-spec"? There are plenty of aftermarket steel grip safeties on the market by various companies..

My opinion: if I were in your shoes, I'd get the kit that you want, and then modify the light to fit whatever frame you decide on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by juicy View Post
Anyway, ILLusion, if you were to make one that doesn't fall apart, I for one will buy it. I was just about to order the Action one for myself when I discovered the problem on the other guy's gun.
I have some concepts in my head on making a good product that's very effective and durable. Whether it's worth investing a couple thousand dollars in to a small lathe and mill is another thing, but it's something I've been considering. I could expand in to other parts as well as demand requires.

Last edited by ILLusion; January 23rd, 2011 at 16:09..
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Old January 23rd, 2011, 22:51   #819
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Originally Posted by ILLusion View Post
It sounds like you're referring to the dust cover.

I've never handled either the Nova SFA Vicker's frame, nor the MARSOC frame (I'm not even sure what brand of kit you're referring to there), so I couldn't tell you how it compares.

Secondly, I've never seen that light before, so I can't offer any advice on it.

Since you're in Hong Kong, if there's anybody on this forum that would have easy access to see parts in person to try different things out, I'd say it's you. Drop in to a retail shop and say you have the light, want to fit it to a frame, but want to try it on the frame to see if it'd fit. Bring the light along as well. Even better, if it's the same retailer you bought the light from. If the retailer isn't concerned with you scratching their product and thinks they can make a sale, they may allow it to happen. But, knowing how some HK shopkeepers are, I'd say you may have to pressure them in to it.

Regarding the VFC kit, it's a replica of the early model. The Tokyo Marui version of the MEU is a LATE model. you've mixed them around. As for realism... I've never handled a real one (late OR early models), and I've never spent the time on researching that particular model, so unfortunately, I can't provide you confirmation of accuracy/realism in that regard. That research will be all on you, so do your own homework. But for what it's worth, VFC has always been one of the better companies in terms of making accurate replicas.

As for grip safeties, what is your definition of "mil-spec"? There are plenty of aftermarket steel grip safeties on the market by various companies..

My opinion: if I were in your shoes, I'd get the kit that you want, and then modify the light to fit whatever frame you decide on.


I have some concepts in my head on making a good product that's very effective and durable. Whether it's worth investing a couple thousand dollars in to a small lathe and mill is another thing, but it's something I've been considering. I could expand in to other parts as well as demand requires.
Oh so that curved bit at the front of the triggerguard is called the dust cover? I've always wondered but never got it from your previous replies about hi capas....

Anyway, the problem with the airsoft shops you have mentioned already. If I'm not a foreigner with a wad of cash sticking out of my pocket they won't give a damn about me. Plus I think they kinda recognise me anyway (as a local; I've visted almost all the shops and I use cantonese with them 90% of the time) so I can't fake being a foreigner. I think it comes down to a lot of locals going in and asking about stuff then they'll never go and buy it. I don't have the cash at hand anyway; I merely asked you the question so that I can get a confirmation of sorts as to what frames I can use to fit the light and a beavertail I've tried asking the shops about fitting a G&P M4 VN style mid-cap internals into a DBoys HK416 mag externals and they won't even bother bringing out the mags for me to LOOK at (I specifically told them I just wanted to take a look at both at once for comparision of their dimensions). So if I even suggest fitting the light (which is made of a thick block of metal...maybe aluminium, not sure) onto a frame as expensive as PGC or Nova or hell, even cheapo stuff like Guarder, they'll tell me to piss off

I bought the light from UNCo, and they have an even stricter policy about touching their display models than other stores (like Tokyo Model Company). When I boguht my KSC Glock 18C from them and wanted to do a size comparision with their display Marui Glock 17, they got really pissy when I tried to put both guns side by side together (lightly touching each other...I wasn't being a dick about it since I wasn't risking to pay some few hundred bucks more if I slipped my hands and scratch their display model). So putting the frame on the MBK that I don't have (or my friends) is out of the question, sadly.

Sorry to get you confused, I understand that the TM one is the late model and the VFC replicates the early model. I was trying to get a feel of the trades on the VFC by comparing it with the WA early model MEU but I haven't found success yet in getting pics of the trades on both the WA and VFC. I did research a bit on the MEUs myself and all it said was that the Marines used old 1911 frames and then modded everything else on it. There's like two pictures from wiki (google searches don't seem to be any more helpful), both pics of the MEU had straight cuttings on the slide, so it's a M1911A1 frame.

Also, I only seem to have found 2 people on airsoft forums who actually owned the VFC frame at some point and wrote something detailed about it, and you're one of them So I want to ask you whether the VFC frame can hold up to abuse even though its die-cast and then CNC'd? I've read somewhere that the VFC trades look wavy even compared to a Guarder one; but looking at the pics on the internet doesn't seem to show that. Are the VFC trades worst than the Guarder one in your opinion?

The grip safety I'm talking about (now that I'm not sure if I was referring to it correctly) is the one that comes with the stock 1911s...the non-beavertail grip, if you will. The plethora of aftermarket grip safeties out there are the beavertail ones that won't fit a standard 1911 frame without grinding away the back of the lower frame to accomodate the beavertail. I was hoping that there's a steel version of that available since with my experience on the stock MEU grip (being the same material and treated the same way as the TM 1911), the black colouring rubs off really easily and it's not that hefty. I want a steel version of it to increase the overall weight of my replica as well as make it longer lasting. If I can get that grip safety, then I don't have to restrict myself to the possible 2 Nova kits I mentioned; I could probably go with any of the 'made for 1911' frames from PGC or Nova (i.e. Delta Elite, Colt Mk. IV, etc.)

I know I might seem lazy with all my questions directed to you, but I've done all the research I could before I ask on this thread (I don't rule out that I might have missed something out in my research, but I certianly put a lot of time and effort in finding the parts I need!). It's my last resort whenever I have problems with my MEU Thanks again for your reply!
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Old January 23rd, 2011, 22:57   #820
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Hey Brian, I just wanted to confirm this is the standard length frame for hicapa 5.1 right?

Shooters Design CNC Chassis 5 inch STD SV for Marui Hi-Capa (Silver)

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/shooters-...pa-silver.html

BTW, does this come with the pins for the safety, valve knocker, sear?
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Old January 23rd, 2011, 23:05   #821
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What do you mean by "wavy" trademarks? They looked fine to me. As for owning a VFC kit, I've never fielded one. I'd installed one, compared it side by side with Nova, PGC, Guarder & Shooters Design, and then sold it off. I don't recall taking the time to closely examine the trademarks side by side, but nothing about it stood out to me either.
I can't see it NOT being durable, anyways. I don't think it'll disintegrate in your hands any time soon...

As for the grip safety, it sounds like you're referring to the Military Model grip safety. Nothing exists on the aftermarket as a steel replacement, that I'm aware of.

Quote:
Originally Posted by turok_t View Post
Hey Brian, I just wanted to confirm this is the standard length frame for hicapa 5.1 right?

Shooters Design CNC Chassis 5 inch STD SV for Marui Hi-Capa (Silver)

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/shooters-...pa-silver.html
Looks like a standard length dust cover to me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by turok_t View Post
BTW, does this come with the pins for the safety, valve knocker, sear?
This is built on the Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa design, which does not use pins for the safety, valve knocker or sear. So no, there are no pins.
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Old January 23rd, 2011, 23:29   #822
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Originally Posted by ILLusion View Post
What do you mean by "wavy" trademarks? They looked fine to me. As for owning a VFC kit, I've never fielded one. I'd installed one, compared it side by side with Nova, PGC, Guarder & Shooters Design, and then sold it off. I don't recall taking the time to closely examine the trademarks side by side, but nothing about it stood out to me either.
I can't see it NOT being durable, anyways. I don't think it'll disintegrate in your hands any time soon...

As for the grip safety, it sounds like you're referring to the Military Model grip safety. Nothing exists on the aftermarket as a steel replacement, that I'm aware of.


Looks like a standard length dust cover to me.


This is built on the Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa design, which does not use pins for the safety, valve knocker or sear. So no, there are no pins.
LOL.. oh no, i meant, u know how there are those 2 pins and spring that pushes against the left side of the thumb safety? they are very small and usually fling out when u remove the left thumb safety. Im just wondering if the frame includes those things as well.
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Old January 24th, 2011, 00:01   #823
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LOL.. oh no, i meant, u know how there are those 2 pins and spring that pushes against the left side of the thumb safety? they are very small and usually fling out when u remove the left thumb safety. Im just wondering if the frame includes those things as well.
Ah, you're asking about the plunger set. No Hi-Capa frame kits come with the plunger set (at this time.) Nine Ball manufactures a stainless steel set.
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Old January 24th, 2011, 01:26   #824
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Ah, you're asking about the plunger set. No Hi-Capa frame kits come with the plunger set (at this time.) Nine Ball manufactures a stainless steel set.
... which is rather nice. And smooth. And cool looking. IMO.

Question - heavier floating valves theoretically increase cool down/increase gas consumption, correct? Does it matter that they don't always increase FPS as advertised (ILLusion posted something about the Action valve actually decreasing muzzle velocity, but making for a more consistent chrono reading string)?

Was thinking I should get one for my 1911, but if it does negatively increase gas usage, I should probably stay away from them.
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Old January 24th, 2011, 01:50   #825
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Question - heavier floating valves theoretically increase cool down/increase gas consumption, correct?
Yes, that's the theory. Hard to prove, though. Differences would be minimal. If it were that important, then I wouldn't upgrade to the metal ones at all, and just stick with the plastic one as it's much lighter.

Quote:
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Does it matter that they don't always increase FPS as advertised (ILLusion posted something about the Action valve actually decreasing muzzle velocity, but making for a more consistent chrono reading string)?

Was thinking I should get one for my 1911, but if it does negatively increase gas usage, I should probably stay away from them.
I'd suggest you re-read what I'd originally posted, or if you're not going to paraphrase it accurately, then please quote it in or point a link directly to where I'd stated this. I don't recall ever saying this. The information I'd posted was a very small and quick quantitative sample, quickly done to disprove the claims of the review. Looking at the sample size, you can tell that it was a quick and dirty job that proved a point, but was not, a true test of performance of this particular product. In fact, the numbers were so close, that I'd say the point was moot (but you can note that the number averages showed that the Action bulb INCREASED power, versus what you're saying about it decreasing.)

If I were to do that test for real, I'd control more variables, particularly with the power source. I'd hook in an external air tank to stabilize the pressure and to rule out a huge variable: filling propane in to the small capacity of our pistol magazines. But that's beside the point. The numbers still showed that on average, the Action valve provided a very minimal increase in FPS.

Last edited by ILLusion; January 24th, 2011 at 01:52..
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