WIP: Upgrading Your Tokyo Marui Glock

[DustMagnet]

No.

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[Animalmother]

Has anyone made thier own buffer for the hammer spring?

[kar120c]

Originally Posted by Animalmother

Has anyone made thier own buffer for the hammer spring?

For the hammer spring?
I think buffer is only useful for recoil spring

[kar120c]

I followed your advice about lubing the parts where trigger bar and chassis makes contact and it worked for a couple of weeks before trigger stops to resetting.
Today I have taken apart all the hammer parts for cleaning and relubing. I also have polished the trigger bar (the part facing the pistol frame) and the small hook which worn the chassis causing the trigger sticking.
For now all works again but I wish a definitive solution for the sticking trigger, have you any suggestion?

Originally Posted by MikeMcNair

I have done everything from fully polishing every moving part, to just the bare minimum.

in this regard (trigger mech, trigger relay bar, etc) it is easiest to polish only the parts that have metal on metal contact. so in short, YES, the part where it moves in the trigger mech, and at a minimum the right side of the bar (when looking at it installed, against the frame)

of course lubricating these points as well will maximize free movement.

also, i prefer to lubricate with the following: (this is for real steel, yet i find it WONDERFUL for many other things.....

http://www.corrosionx.com/corrosionx-for-guns.html

[Danke]

Originally Posted by Animalmother

has anyone ever shut off the blow back action?

You'd vent the whole magazine.

[Animalmother]

Originally Posted by kar120c

For the hammer spring?
I think buffer is only useful for recoil spring

I am still conpletely new to my gbb.
I meant he hammer spring, i found a picture where someone else had did it but it was a very unclear pic. I plan on keeping the stock body/slide.

[turok_t]

Originally Posted by jjkfeng

Does the hammer charge after the first shot?

Mostly, no, not with the slide on.

Your gun doesn't vent out after the first pull?

What does that mean?

Your still getting some slide action but no trigger response after the first pull?

Mostly, no trigger response after the first pull, a few times/occasionally though, it works for 2-3 pulls.


My guess is his trigger bar is probably riding over that little tab on the sear instead of pushing it to get the sear to release the hammer.
IT SEEMS LIKE THIS! Exactly this! How fix?

Thanks

Hey man I fixed your gun. The main problem with your gun is because of the trigger lever. I understand why you indicated that when you pull on the trigger after the first shot, nothing happens. When I casually assessed your gun with your slide removed, the trigger bar was stiff and wasn't sliding properly. Pulling on the trigger did not release the hammer. This led me to believe that your trigger bar was the culprit. It turns out that the corner of the trigger bar that engages the sear to release the hammer is too short. As such, the corner part was actually rubbing against the side of the sear and along the frame which was the resistance I encountered earlier. Sometimes if you are lucky, the trigger bar may engage the sear, but most often, this did not happen. This is why when you pull the trigger, the hammer is not released. Here is a picture comparing my trigger bar vs yours, notice the discrepancy:



Anyways, I installed a new Guarder steel trigger bar, and this is how your gun performs now:

Fixed Customer's Glock - YouTube

Originally Posted by Animalmother

has anyone ever shut off the blow back action?

If you remove the black back action, you wont be able to chamber the next round. You can do this by removing the floating valve/spring in the air nozzle and watch all the gas (and chambered bb) vent out after you pull the trigger.

HOWEVER, you can reduce the time the gas valve is opened to increase gas efficiency by modding your BBU. However, you run the risk of your slide not locking back or cycling far enough to chamber the next round.

[jjkfeng]

Thanks Turok

[jjkfeng]

Any advice on what is the best bucking to use with PDI barrel?

[turok_t]

Originally Posted by jjkfeng

Any advice on what is the best bucking to use with PDI barrel?

9ball, A+, firefly

[jjkfeng]

Has anyone tried a tracer unit on an g18c guarder or pgc threaded barrel ?

Also, does anyone know where to get a shorter rear pin? I have a longer one with the thumb rest but I took the thumb rest off and it's become too long.

Thanks!

[jjkfeng]

hey e!

I was looking at your new dual-tone glock. The polished look is incredible. I'm wondering if you briefly guide me through the tools and techniques you've used to achieve the effects.

Thanks for your attention,
Jackie

[MikeMcNair]

Jackie, search my name and "polished barrels" or something like that. i have a pretty detailed post on polishing things as i polish EVERYTHING i can.

also, been gone for a week or two. did i miss any bison burgers????

[turok_t]

Originally Posted by jjkfeng

hey e!

I was looking at your new dual-tone glock. The polished look is incredible. I'm wondering if you briefly guide me through the tools and techniques you've used to achieve the effects.

Thanks for your attention,
Jackie

Hey man, polishing is a cool effect. However, you gotta make sure that when you do polish specific parts on the gun, it does not affect the full functionality of the pistol. For instance, polishing the lug/rails excessively will cause the slide/frame interaction to be too loose, potentially affecting gas seal. There are also many parts that do not need to be polished (ie. the inside of an outer barrel), and doing so would just increase the risk for problems.

Also do note the material that you are removing/polishing as a lot of metal are pot metal and will oxidize and rust overtime, resulting in an ugly brown/dull color. You can try to clear coat it to seal it to prevent it from oxidization but it is ill advise and the coat would eventually come off from wear/use. Ive tried using Testors, Tamiya, Krylon and Duracoat- all of which are NOT durable except for Duracoat which has the highest tolerance against wear (if applied and prepared properly that is). The remaining three in my experience, are pretty unreliable given that it can easily be removed from handling.

So before you polish, think about the material and functionality. You can use 800 to 2000 grid sandpaper, and finish off with some Mother's polishing compound that you can get from CT. Im not a big fan of sanding and polishing for aesthetic reasons due to the aforementioned reason. I would only sand/polish areas to help improve the functionality of the pistol, without compromising the overall mechanics of the gun.

[wind_comm]

soooo...I just upgraded the sh*t out of my glock (please don't remind me how much it cost. please. ;_; )

has anybody noticed the blowback is quite...weak? compared to my hicapa, 1911 and 226, the thing barely jumps the sights at all whereas I actually have to re-aim with the others.

also I seem to be light striking for the first few shots every mag. it has a guarder hammer spring but is still quite inconsistent. chrono says 210-230 and I have to manually cycle the slide to load a round for a few shots before it decides to start self-loading and gets to about 280.