August 29th, 2013, 17:00 | #61 | |
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However, you can carry a few extra batteries with you on the field if you manage to fit your PRS with a quick access battery. I know that normally people put it in the stock tube with an opening at the top, but you need to remove the top-rear screw to remove the stock and access the battery... You can also do the same thing I am and convert your gun to a PolarStar... the 750mAh battery fits inside the pistol grip. BUT there is an air line going to a bottle/regulator in your vest. Most people find that too "paintballish" to accept. For a DMR role, it's damn perfect however, since you typically will carry less mags, and the system is beyond anything an AEG can do (up there with the bolt-action sniper rifles). |
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August 29th, 2013, 17:31 | #62 |
Hmm... I didn't really want to spend $500 on the PolarStar unit... even though I already own two HPA tanks and a remote line from my days as a scenario paintballer....I find that's a little too expensive for what I have in mind. Although... that would make the gun far more air efficient and potentially stronger in terms of fps due to the regulator... Nah, it's too much for my budget.. I'll keep the current stock for now. It's not that big a deal. I'll get some mags, should be good enough for now.
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September 11th, 2013, 13:56 | #63 |
UPDATE: Swapped the trigger and forgot the motor-plate (dumb-ass) and learned why you don't install new upgrades at 2 in the morning. After installing the motor plate I've discovered a new problem... it's double feeding. WHYYYYY?! Is it related to the depth of the motor? It didn't have this problem before I changed the grip. Suggestions?
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September 11th, 2013, 13:59 | #64 |
Have you somehow nudged the gearbox out of alignment? also check your tappet plate and nozzle. Its common for people to install the air nozzle wrong.
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September 11th, 2013, 14:04 | #65 |
Haven't taken the gearbox apart. Before I installed the new trigger it worked just fine. I removed the heat sink plate or motor plate whatever you guys wanna call it and withdrew the motor, removed the grip and installed the new one. When I dropped the motor back in I had to adjust the large screw at the bottom of the heat sink plate to adjust the motor to connect with the gears inside... but I don't know how far it is sitting inside... do I have to disassemble everything to get it working? :s
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September 11th, 2013, 14:17 | #66 |
Mr. Silencer
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Yes.
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September 11th, 2013, 14:22 | #67 |
CRAAAAAP okay well it'll give me something to do tonight anyway. Thanks. About where does the motor need to sit or does it vary and have to rely on trial and error?
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January 11th, 2014, 18:54 | #68 |
Been a while since I posted on here, and I return with a few updates for my SR25 rifle...
I have purchased the PRS Stock and it should be here by Wednesday, and I also installed a H-nub into the hop up (it was what I had in my tool kit and will likely be upgraded further with a new hop up unit entirely and a better nub) Further, I'm looking into outer barrels again but still don't really which would be a good choice. I know M4/M16 style outer barrels work, but what brands are good and not terribly expensive? I'm starting to get sick of looking at the tube of a barrel on there. For the RIS, I had installed a folding foregrip but quickly took it off. I like that i can get a more stable shot using the foregrip but it looks ugly as F*CK. Anyone have any suggestions? Maybe an AFG grip close to the mag well? |
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January 15th, 2014, 11:35 | #69 |
Alright another update, I got the PRS stock in, however there is a plug covered in rubber that is causing me some headaches right behind the stock tube... I think I gotta rewire the rifle, from the gearbox to the stock. Has anyone done this and able to give some insight?
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January 15th, 2014, 16:15 | #70 | |
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Don't forget to get some heat shrinking tube to cover the joint. Also make sure that the connector you are using for your battery fits in the opening through the receiver, otherwise you will have to cut the wires if you need to access the mechbox. |
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