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Old August 4th, 2011, 10:37   #631
Deadpool
 
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Originally Posted by deadlydayne View Post
Sorry boys havent been on the forum. FOX send me an email immediately, I will be happy to replace. As I have mentioned before, and most people seem to believe that just because the screw is chamfered, that it will indicate based on hole position. ITS NOT TRUE, you must put the top screw in first, (*DONT TIGHTEN IT JUST GET THREADS STARTED*) then put in the 4 side screws. After all screws are in then tighten them. should go in perfect. Also as mentioned before no 2 guns are the same.
I can't even do that with mine. Mine's about 2mm off too on the top hole and I had too re-drill the top hole of the gun 0.125" wider just to be able to align the top screw to the hole even before I can screww in the side screws. The whole part it too wide, I have to stretch the main body off the gun to slide it in.

You really need to move that top hole on the next batch.
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So you're saying we cannot engage in a hobby once we are older?

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Last edited by Deadpool; August 4th, 2011 at 10:40..
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Old August 4th, 2011, 13:19   #632
Fox62
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I still don't understand the rough finish, as pretty much all professional machined parts are sold with a polished finish; but as it's been said, it's not really a big issue given this is mostly a functional part.
As for the screw, there's really no way of putting it in without modifying the upper's hole in my case.
I didn't say you got rich with these parts. But we did pay for your work and all I want is a functional part, the cosmetic issues I just mentioned for you to perhaps consider (or, you know, not :P) in the future.
I'll contact you through a PM.


Regards, Fox.
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Old August 4th, 2011, 14:53   #633
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Deadpool, I dont know what to tell you for width, I have a .015" of an inch gap on each side of the legs for my body. So again, if you were to put it in my rifle there is slop all around. I have already adjusted the program for the top holes. But as for the width, I cant move or else it will be too wide for many people. As for the "polished finish" nobody sells a product with a "polished finish" its either chromed, powdercoated, or anodized. The so-called "polished finish" is just a flat cut with a Shell mill usually of 2-3" dia. Im sorry I didnt do that but both of mine where taken up on the other two machines. So I figured a 1/2" endmill would give it a nice cut design, showing the toolpaths on purpose. I know you didnt say I got rich, but theres no reason to bring up what you thought I might have made or even the price of these parts. They are at a very cheap price, again when I made these I didnt even factor in machine time in the price. All I can do is offer a buy back, replacement part, or everyones favorite the stock part.
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Old August 4th, 2011, 18:46   #634
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I'm with deadpool and fox for the top hole. Even if you start the screw in the top hole, it barely catches and immediately starts cross threading. At best the screw is going in at a 60 degree angle. Modding the hole was really the only way to do it. Taking into consideration the fact that all we scars and part 27s are a little different, a few of us have had the hole not line up. And I don't think it's random for each gun, I think it's out of alignment 1-2 mils in the same direction for each gun. So maybe, if your up to it, move the hole a mil for the next batch. Totally up to you of course, but not everyone owns drills and files.
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Old August 4th, 2011, 20:41   #635
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Still no sign of mine. Damn posties.
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Old August 5th, 2011, 00:24   #636
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So I was able to fix every kind of wobble with electrical tape. Shitty thing is that I have to replace the piece of tape every time I take the stock off. It gets ripped off with the stock. Also for those who were thinking about the steel bolt. It works good but requires a lot of clean lube. It's a tiny bit wider than the stock one so not only is it heavier, but it drags. The gun cycles slower because of this. Like when I first put it in, and cocked it back, the bolt was stuck, and wouldn't slide back to it's reset spot. It may speed up a bit over time. I bet it will wear out the recoil spring a bit faster than normal. Another reason to buy a second open bolt kit I guess. I wonder if I could find a stronger spring from a specialty store or something.
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Old August 5th, 2011, 01:22   #637
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Originally Posted by Ross View Post
So I was able to fix every kind of wobble with electrical tape. Shitty thing is that I have to replace the piece of tape every time I take the stock off. It gets ripped off with the stock. Also for those who were thinking about the steel bolt. It works good but requires a lot of clean lube. It's a tiny bit wider than the stock one so not only is it heavier, but it drags. The gun cycles slower because of this. Like when I first put it in, and cocked it back, the bolt was stuck, and wouldn't slide back to it's reset spot. It may speed up a bit over time. I bet it will wear out the recoil spring a bit faster than normal. Another reason to buy a second open bolt kit I guess. I wonder if I could find a stronger spring from a specialty store or something.
What about FPS? Ra-Tech said they would release their "I-Hop" system in conjuction, but never actually did :-/. Did you notice any performance change from regular to steel bolt?


Fox.
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Old August 5th, 2011, 20:53   #638
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Got mine today! I don't know what the big deal is about the finnish, I think it looks quite nice . My installation went fine, top screw in first (loose) with the bottom out about a mm, tipped it in and put the lower screws in, snugged them all up and promply went outside and executed a clan of insurgent pop cans. My gun is an older version (ser#0000366) so it's possible the older guns have slightly sloppier tolerances. Thanks again Deadly- I may still ship you a buffer tube to make one of the M4 stock adapters.

Cheers.
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Old August 5th, 2011, 21:02   #639
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Originally Posted by Fox62 View Post
What about FPS? Ra-Tech said they would release their "I-Hop" system in conjuction, but never actually did :-/. Did you notice any performance change from regular to steel bolt?


Fox.
I don't own a chrono so I'm not sure how hard it's hitting, I'd imagine it's the same fps as before. I am not sure about this ihop thing. I have the tm hicappa-style rubber in there and it works fine, so I'm not sure I'm going to get an ihop. Performance is the same in terms of functionality. The kick is only really noticeable on full auto.
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Old August 6th, 2011, 01:27   #640
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Got my part 27 today. I have to agree the top hole is out a mm. I had to angle mine in and get the top screw started before putting in the lower's. The top screw head is not flat/flush with all screws in. I couldn't tighten it all the way as well or it would strip. Had a little trouble getting the lower reciever in as well to line up the retaining pin. Got it after a little work but just really tight. I guess tight is better then loose that is for sure. Way better then the then the TSC 66 that is for sure. I can put the original 66 and it fits tight not like the TSC which is loose. All in all I'm happy with the part 27, just a little adjusting on top hole it is good would be better.

As for the open bolt kit blowing apart 27 and 66 I don't know. I have gamed my rifle with the original parts in open bolt for four games now over 3000 rounds through it with games and testing with no issues. I have the kit with the extra rubber on the spring plate and I added another rubber bushing as well. I shoot a little in full auto but not much so I don't know if this why I haven't had an issue yet. I see no signs of fatigue in any of the original parts, so they must just fail without showing signs. I'm going to do the same as Ross and tape-up my TSC part to get it to fit tight. I changed parts not because my parts have broken but just to be on the safe side. I'll keep my originals just in case I need them as back-ups. I was thinking of just going with originals until they fail just to see how long they last but I didn't feel like gambaling.

Thanks again deadly and if you do machine up a part 66 I'll be up for that.
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Old August 6th, 2011, 21:50   #641
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got to game my scar today. It ran great. 2 pieces flew out of my gun. Both were on the plastic boot stock. One was the cheek rest button and the other was the button that you push down to adjust the stock to different lengths. Luckily I still have the loose pieces. But man is the kick retarded on this thing. Hinges held strong for hours of full and semi firing.
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Old August 6th, 2011, 22:25   #642
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Another reason for an M4 stock conversion.lol! Good to hear the guts stayed in.
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Old August 7th, 2011, 07:19   #643
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got to game my scar today. It ran great. 2 pieces flew out of my gun. Both were on the plastic boot stock. One was the cheek rest button and the other was the button that you push down to adjust the stock to different lengths. Luckily I still have the loose pieces. But man is the kick retarded on this thing. Hinges held strong for hours of full and semi firing.
hahaha been there and got my screws applied with threadlock.
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Old August 8th, 2011, 09:50   #644
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Another reason for an M4 stock conversion.lol! Good to hear the guts stayed in.
Iron, im sure you'd be happy to know I just bought a G&P WOC M4. So I know have a buffer tube. If you get enough people to bug me to make your conversion kit im sure it wouldnt take long before I draw something up.
- Deadly
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Old August 8th, 2011, 13:46   #645
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what if we just welded a buffer tube onto the tsc part 66? Would that be crazy?
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