Ares G36v: a word of caution

[forge]

Well, even after re-installing the OEM Ares hop up, bucking, and related bits...the damn thing STILL won't shoot consistantly; or with much power for that matter (chronos at 230-250).
I seem to have got a real lemon here.... the saga continues, lol.

[pestobanana]

I have a lonex unit in my ca, all I had to do was file down the prongs on the sides a bit. No air seal problems whatsoever

Originally Posted by lurkingknight

I tried fitting the lonex to my CA.. didn't fit.. despite being the same design, the measurements are different.

I filed a bit of the back off.. filed some of the prongs to make it sit back farther... it did not seal at all... 130 fps is about as much as I could get.

I gave up.. .client came to me with broken hopup on his ares, and the ares unit is out of stock currently, so I tried fitting my adjusted lonex into his ares... it seals reasonably well.. adjusted a bit more, but it's having issues feeding, I think more to do with mags being loose in the magwell.

So at this point we're at a bit of an impass, either start modifying his magwell or wait for the ares unit to come back into stock.

[WHOABLAH]

I have two lonex g36 hop up chamber in both my ares g36s and they work flawlessly. With one of my ares g36, I did have the same problem like yours, it was double feeding.

If you look at your photos and compare the Ares OEM hop up chamber to the lonex, you can see that there is a slight gap between the gearbox and the lonex hop up. Where as the original ares hop up chamber has no gap and sits flush against the gear box.

To fix this you can add a spacer/o-ring around the front of the inner barrel stabilizer thing (part #F91) (it is the big fat metal piece you stick your hop up and spring into and lock down using a grub screw).

Doing so will set your hop up unit back a little bit and make it flush against your gearbox. This fixed the air seal and feeding issue with mine. I hope this works for you also.

[forge]

Hmmm, thanks Whoablah, that sounds like a logical step to take since most of the issues with the Lonex seemed to stem from that large gap in the hop up chamber: a gap which might be fixed with your suggestion.
However, I am a little unclear about this "part #F91: could you post a pic just so I am certain which part you are talking about?
How about the large oval shaped gap between the feeding tube and the hop up? Did THAT ever give you any problems?

[WHOABLAH]

To be honest with you, I never checked that oval gap lol. the first thing I noticed was the gap between the gearbox and hop up chamber when installing the Lonex Hop up Chamber and I just adjusted it so it was flush to the gear box and it started feeding flawlessly. lol.

http://www.aresairsoft.com/for%20web...xpose_plan.jpg

If you look at the link I attached above, it will show you the part #F91.

[forge]

Thanks for the link Whoablah, I have been looking for an Ares g36 exploded view for awhile now
Unfortunately, I have the G36V, not the C...I don't know if there are any significant differences between the two or not? I will have a closer look later next week and see if I can locate that part F91.

Thanks again for the link, and the suggestion!

[lurkingknight]

the only difference should be the fake gas piston and length of the outer barrel assembly.

[WHOABLAH]

no problem, like what lurkingknight said, aside from the externals, everything internally should be the exact same for the g36c & g36v minus the inner barrel length.

[forge]

Yup, you guys are right: the internals are the same That F91 part is just hard to see, so I overlooked it on my first inspection.
I still have not found the time to reinstall the Lonex parts, but I will attempt it later this week. I have to do something, because this damn thing is STILL not firing correctly. The BBs fly anywhere but straight, and it still has a double-feed problem (although it is no where near as bad as before). The range is poor as well...my KWA g36c easily beats it for distance and accuracy.
Lesson learned: stick with KWA! Lol

[Ratters]

One thing that's commonly know but maybe not commonly shared is that the HOD button, the bolt lock-back Holding Open Device also acts as the anti-reversal latch release which of course takes the strain off the spring when it's time to store it. I didn't read ALL of the replies in this thread so don't hate if i missed a previously written comment about this issue.

Locking back the charging handle with this hod, located forward of the trigger guard AND firing the gun...just a bad idea. Those in the know disconnect this bar off the gearbox and simply resort to clearing the gun and cyling the gearbox with a few pulls of the trigger in a safe direction after or between game areas.

Hope this helps someone in the future.

ps:those stock Ares buckings, swap them out. They're made from Gummy Bears