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March 22nd, 2011, 15:13
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#46 | |
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Quote:
1. because amos is a local retailer and deals a lot in WE stuff. He's just a short drive away. less hassle, faster service. 2. because I have already tried ordering parts through this guy. I have sent him several pms in the past, and he flat out ignores me. My messages were polite and after months, no reply. Why support someone who wouldn't even give me the time of day? http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=108143
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Last edited by Ross; March 22nd, 2011 at 15:22.. |
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March 22nd, 2011, 15:41
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#47 |
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Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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If your making one, use steel, not aluminum
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March 22nd, 2011, 18:18
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#48 |
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ok so we were taking another look at this part trying to find the easiest way to mill this thing out and we were talking about how to do it... figured out a way to run it with less operations and make it so its just part 27. so hopefully i may be able to keep the quick disassembly. and depending on how part 27 sells we may go into making the stock hinge plate. ThunderCactus, I thought steel, but 6061 aluminum is pretty friggin strong, its what we make all of our parts out of, ive seen a 50lb rc car slam into a front loader goin 65 and all it did was bend our part, and just one. so we think that the aluminum will hold, if it proves not to we will try some hard anodizing, and if that also fails then we will go to steel. But right now theres no reason to add all that extra weight if not needed. I got a way to get a new part so we should be good there i shall continue on the drawings :-)
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March 22nd, 2011, 18:27
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#49 |
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Ban-Fu Sifu
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skip 6061 alloy.... if you're going to use aluminium then use 7075 t7 with a class 3 hard annodize... they make m4 out of this nowdays... if you want to overkill it then use 4140 stress releived steel and for a total overkill go with something like Inconel or A2 tools steel
about 40% more expensive material wise but about 60% easyer to mill althow at that size you're probably looking at what 3$ to 5$ material
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Vondnik, team Bad Karma, PQAC Murphy's second rule: Nothing is impossible for the man who does not have to do it himself. 
Last edited by vondnik; March 22nd, 2011 at 18:34.. |
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March 22nd, 2011, 18:28
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#50 |
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we will find out come testing i guess. good idea tho, may have to go with that
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March 22nd, 2011, 19:37
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#51 |
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whatever you make it out of, it's better than the pot metal crap WE put in here by default.
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March 22nd, 2011, 19:59
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#52 |
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the pot metal would have worked better if they had forged or stamped it, then drilled holes... by die casting, the crystal structure is essentially random, it doesn't get the nice aligned structure that forging gives...
anywho... just go for whatever the main top body is made of :P
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Current Gear: TM G36C/SL-9, WE M14, WE PDW, KWA USP, KJW USP Tactical Future Gear: TM PSG1, M700, ARES DSR-1 v2 |
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March 23rd, 2011, 04:38
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#53 |
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Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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It's not like I build custom small parts all the time or anything
 The aluminum structure will hold up, 7075 will last a long time under those stresses as its WAY stronger than pot metal, and if the user isn't an idiot he won't strip the threads either, but keep in mind the wear resistance and thin sections. Weight isn't a factor, aluminum is generally 30% lighter than pot metal, and steel is less than double the weight of 7075. We're talking a difference of less than 200g Machining isn't even a factor on low carbon steel if your using TiAlN coated carbide end mills, you can machine the whole thing dry. Use troichoidal milling for heavy removal through the center instead of (blegh!) conventional slot milling, 1xD depth, 0.3xD engagement, and whatever surface speed and feed the end mill can handle. End mills with .015"-.031" radii corners are recommended anyway and it'll give you a radius around those weak posts to strengthen them up greatly. troichoidal milling has the added benefit of increasing tool life, running without coolant, and reducing any chance of chip jamming or overheating. I'd say form tap the threaded holes, but unless you already have a form tap that size, I can't see the added strength being worth the money... You CAN use aluminum, but it's always best to use steel on components like this, especially when you look at how and where it broke. I'd say 1018-1022, nothing fancy. And you don't need to treat it after machining. You could harden it, but think you'd benefit from having stock hardness. (and yes, you can harden 1018, I've done it 300 times) |
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March 23rd, 2011, 06:16
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#54 |
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im looking around, in the space of the upper reciever and i am going to try tho thicken the threaded holes and see what i can radius, as you said a radiused cut will hold a hell of a lot more than a straight 90. Altho i still see no reason to cut this out of any kind of steel, as Vondnick said M4's are made of 7075 with hard ano, and if an m4 is built of aluminum, and fires, repeatidly without fracture or break, then theres no need for steel here in this application, the blow back of even CO2 doesnt measure to that of 556/223. Granted the gbb has power but i still think the 6061will do just fine, and as i stated before if not we will move to something else. I told Ross this last night i forgot to put it in a post tho, so here it is, i hope to start testing round beggining or mid april. and if all goes well, build a couple parts sell them and if they take off mass produce them. i do need some ideas on how to test tho. I was thinking of doing mag dumps, Like find myself 20 CO2 mags, fill em with CO2 turn on the "blank firing" switch and just run it thru 20 mags on full auto, pull it apart take a look, and see. im still thinking of other ways. any ideas let me know.
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March 23rd, 2011, 07:28
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#55 |
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Sorry for the double post boys, but heres update #2, second day drawing. this is the opposite side of yesterdays>>>
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March 23rd, 2011, 10:51
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#56 |
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sweet. I am worried about what thundercactus said about the threads stripping on aluminum. I may be that idiot who takes this piece on and off several times, and tightens the screws too hard or crossing them, which ends up stripping the aluminum threads. But I know nothing of metal strengths so I'll just see how testing goes.
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Last edited by Ross; March 23rd, 2011 at 10:53.. |
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March 23rd, 2011, 12:28
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#57 |
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you should be fine, like i said im looking to strengthen in the area of threads. but as you said only time will tell
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March 23rd, 2011, 14:05
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#58 |
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you could do user testing... send pieces to known trouble guns... the open-bolt kit seems to put a lot more stress on 27 than the closed bolt system.... and i'm pretty sure my pvc block mod also puts more stress on 27....
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Current Gear: TM G36C/SL-9, WE M14, WE PDW, KWA USP, KJW USP Tactical Future Gear: TM PSG1, M700, ARES DSR-1 v2 |
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March 23rd, 2011, 14:27
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#59 |
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Anyone getting the steel bolt and bolt carrier when it comes out? Think that would put even more stress on these parts?
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March 23rd, 2011, 16:05
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#60 |
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Dire you dirty bastard, tryin to scam free parts already :-) hahahaha that was another of my thoughts. I have the CO2 Gen 3 Scar so it was always open bolt. i dont think i myself will be getting the steel bolt that may be another one of my fun projects is make a cnc versions
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