WIP: Upgrading Your Tokyo Marui Glock

[turok_t]

If you want to modify the magazines instead, you need to shim the gas routes higher to form a better seal with the air nozzle. Depending in the magazine itself, A lot of people remove the gas route and modify it so that it fits higher when reinstalled back in the magazine.

[kar120c]

Originally Posted by turok_t

If you want to modify the magazines instead, you need to shim the gas routes higher to form a better seal with the air nozzle. Depending in the magazine itself, A lot of people remove the gas route and modify it so that it fits higher when reinstalled back in the magazine.

I tried the Nineball gas route, a bit higher than stock but dosn't works well and seems to interfere with slide/bb unit

[jw4563]

I have a g18c and my guarder loading muzzle keep on breaking after a few mags. Ive heard this is a recurring problem and was wondering if anyone found a solution. Im kinda stuck using guarder ones cause their the only ones i can find for the 18.

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by jw4563

I have a g18c and my guarder loading muzzle keep on breaking after a few mags. Ive heard this is a recurring problem and was wondering if anyone found a solution. Im kinda stuck using guarder ones cause their the only ones i can find for the 18.

Unfortunately, there aren't much replacement parts for the Glock 18c. Loading muzzles are hard to come by.

Furthermore, the stock loading muzzles are sadly better than the latter choices out there, IMO. I think you'd be better off using stock loading muzzles.

The only solution I can see with that Guarder one is to lower the internal pressure of the gas by switching to duster gas or just let out air to vent the gas pressure by creating a NOT so perfect seal with the piston head.

However, it really depends on HOW that muzzle is breaking. Look at the stress fractures and see if you can pin point where it begins to determine the fix.

OR

You modify the loading muzzle itself like Turok_T did above. Using Glue to re-enforce the entire muzzle.

The problem with his method is that in cold temperatures, the glue itself might crack and just flake off. I've spoken to him over the phone about but when we spoke he hasn't tested it in cold weather. So I don't know how long it will last.

It's pretty good though. Like he says, it's modular so can take off as much as you can or add or re-start the whole process if you botch it the first time
.....

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by kar120c

I tried the Nineball gas route, a bit higher than stock but dosn't works well and seems to interfere with slide/bb unit

The NineBall Gas route packing is designed for the Marui Mags. This might explain why you're not getting a full and decent slide stroke. The KJW magazines are a bit off spec from TM ones.

[Danke]

Lots of pieces.

[turok_t]

TM G18C loading nozzles you might want to try:

1. AABB Enhanced Nozzle Set for Marui G18C GBB
http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/aabb-enha...l#.Ust1wfRDt-A

2. PRO&T Loading Muzzle for Marui G18C GBB
http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/proandt-l...l#.Ust10vRDt-A

3. FE Glock Enhanced Loading Nozzle for Marui/AMRY/MEISTER/CA GBB
http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/fe-glock-...l#.Ust2EPRDt-A

4. Stark Arms Original Parts - Loading Nozzle for S18C
http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/...&view_choice=c

5. AIP Reinforced Loading Nozzle For Marui G17/ G18C GBB
http://www.airsoftglobal.com/shop/in...ducts_id=16681

[kar120c]

As wrote in past posts my G27 suffers of trigger sticking issue but now I found what cause this issue:
The trigger bar wore a groove in the hammer chassis http://s967.photobucket.com/user/vil...ce776.png.html[/
http://imageshack.com/a/img560/8071/dz0r.jpg
If this is a common issue, anyone has found a definitive solution other than sanding every time the worn part?

[Animalmother]

I have a TM Glock 18c I just bought.
I use green gas in it. After reading your first post I wondered how long it would last. There are old versions, I just got it so I am hoping its a new version.
I was told it was a reliable gun, not owing a GBB in 10 years I was new again to gas.
Its 2014, what current upgrades would give my gun 350 with.20s reliably? Is there a way to avoid high flow valves because I want to avoid changing theme out in all my mags.
Thanks guys, enlighten me.

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by Animalmother

I have a TM Glock 18c I just bought.
I use green gas in it. After reading your first post I wondered how long it would last. There are old versions, I just got it so I am hoping its a new version.
I was told it was a reliable gun, not owing a GBB in 10 years I was new again to gas.
Its 2014, what current upgrades would give my gun 350 with.20s reliably? Is there a way to avoid high flow valves because I want to avoid changing theme out in all my mags.
Thanks guys, enlighten me.

Depending on what you go with 350 is a high number to reach for.
Keep in mind, this is a Japanese gun. They are design to shoot under a certain FPS and/or energy to meet Japanese legal status. I think it's 300FPS and under 1j. Don't quote me on that though.

Initially, your gun should shoot around 270-280FPS.

What you need to get is a longer tightbore inner barrel, a good hop up bucking that can seal, a strong hammer spring AND a high flow valve.

Buy the flo valve last. If get to 350 without it, then you're good. If not, then buy one.

For the question of "how long it will last":

It's really difficult to answer questions like these. It's all dependant on the treatment/useage/aftercare whatever you want to call it, of your gun. THis goes for any airsoft gun that you end up owning. You need to take care of it.

Lube it, don't drop it, don't do whatever you think will break the gun faster or wear it out.

Simple as that.

For the Glock 18c in particular, the gun does have a tendency to wear/break faster than its G17 counterpart. THis is because of the full auto function ecxasterbating wearage everytime that switch is flicked on and the trigger is pulled....

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by kar120c

As wrote in past posts my G27 suffers of trigger sticking issue but now I found what cause this issue:
The trigger bar wore a groove in the hammer chassis http://s967.photobucket.com/user/vil...ce776.png.html[/
http://imageshack.com/a/img560/8071/dz0r.jpg
If this is a common issue, anyone has found a definitive solution other than sanding every time the worn part?

You shouldn't be sanding that part to begin with.
What you should've done is simply lube it up.

While I understand the reason behind sanding it, it will only create more trouble for you in the future. This includes:
-longer trigger travel (if you don't want this)
-failure for the trigger bar to engage the sear
-trigger over extension

and so on...

Lube it up. That's all you really need.

[kar120c]

Originally Posted by e-luder

You shouldn't be sanding that part to begin with.
What you should've done is simply lube it up.

While I understand the reason behind sanding it, it will only create more trouble for you in the future. This includes:
-longer trigger travel (if you don't want this)
-failure for the trigger bar to engage the sear
-trigger over extension

and so on...

Lube it up. That's all you really need.

Normal lubing is not enough to solve the problem
But is this a common issue of Glock Series or is only for the low quality of the KJW ones?

[MikeMcNair]

Originally Posted by kar120c

Normal lubing is not enough to solve the problem
But is this a common issue of Glock Series or is only for the low quality of the KJW ones?

due to the fact that i focus almost everything airsoft on the TM/KJW G26/27 i am VERY well versed with just about every issue that could occur in these pistols.

that being said, the lubrication in that region is absolutely paramount, and can be applied excessively with a silicone spray (or SuperLube, etc) and wiped clean once done. this really does make a difference.

also, if you haven't already, polish the outer most portion of the trigger relay bar (when looking from atop the gun, the RIGHT SIDE of the bar)

this eliminates friction against the inner wall of the base, and provides a smooth feel AND engagement of trigger relay bar to hammer/sear.

if you look through the threads in my sig, you will see the bar polished for reference.

-Michael

[MikeMcNair]

[quote=kar120c;1849432]

Originally Posted by e-luder

It could be.

It's really hard to know for sure.
There is a few possible scenarios where a trigger does not reset.

What are these scenarios? maybe the Guarder Steel trigger bar may be useful?

both stock, and guarder bars are fine for these guns, and neither will solve (nor cause in my experience) the lack of trigger return after firing. (barring the small spring pulling the relay bar forward is not installed properly, which is easy to do, but once you look at the spring, and how it seats on the bar and trigger mechanism, you can easily identify when and where there would be interferece)

ironically, the hammer and sear springs can cause this. i have had them "unseat" per se, and not sit in their proper position from time to time, and this would cause the trigger to not retract after a shot.

that being said, i would pull the whole mechanism out of the back of the gun, disassemble, CLEAN THOROUGHLY, and reinstall with careful attention to the spring(s) orientation in their respective locations.

this solved the EXACT issue spoken of for me many a time.

-Michael

[kar120c]

Originally Posted by e-luder

You shouldn't be sanding that part to begin with.
What you should've done is simply lube it up.

While I understand the reason behind sanding it, it will only create more trouble for you in the future. This includes:
-longer trigger travel (if you don't want this)
-failure for the trigger bar to engage the sear
-trigger over extension

and so on...

Lube it up. That's all you really need.

tried lubing with a grease different from silicon, being careful to stay away from seals and the trigger action is improved