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Old May 17th, 2009, 17:08   #31
ILLusion
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Originally Posted by RacingManiac View Post
should market this stuff.....I know I'd buy it...
Canadian Tire.

The base products are easily acquired. It's just the process and labour time that's required that really makes the concept.
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Old May 18th, 2009, 14:13   #32
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once you go custom its hard to go back...lol

btw, about the grease, whats the composition of the mixture between the powder and the grease? have you tried using this stuff in say, the GBB M4 bolt assembly?
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Old May 18th, 2009, 15:45   #33
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once you go custom its hard to go back...lol
No kidding. I'm gonna create a new thread on a new project I'm working on right now.

I've also figured out how to use real steel grips on an airsoft receiver. Expect some boner inducing projects in the future...

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btw, about the grease, whats the composition of the mixture between the powder and the grease? have you tried using this stuff in say, the GBB M4 bolt assembly?
I just load up the lithium grease with graphite until it looks like the grease won't take any more (it'll be a very very very dark / carbon grey at this point). I don't know any exact ratios. I just do it by eye.

I would NOT suggest using this compound as the actual grease. It MUST be wiped off, because you don't want any of that grease flinging off and landing on something, as it will stain it with the graphite. That stuff is impossible to get out of clothes. Also, it acts as a minor abrasive / polishing compound. Leaving it in will cause excessive wear over time. Working it in at the beginning is done to provide a minor buffing to the mated components to ensure a good fit with each other, while filling in the pits with the graphite to create an ultra smooth polished surface against each other.

I've only tried this method on two builds so far... the one featured in this thread, as well as a custom high precision all black version of this gun for a customer and the results worked well both times. I'm not sure how it'd work with the M4 GBB bolt assembly, but seeing as how there are much more nooks, crannies, and cracks of the M4 bolt assembly, I'm not too sure I'd be willing to try this in there, as it'll be a real headache to clean the goop out afterwards.


In the past, I've actually used similar polishing compounds on AEG systems, especially in very sensitive builds such as ultra high ROF builds. Now that I think about it... the original idea for using grease as a carrier actually came from Prometheus. I still have one set of these grease kits in stock and for sale, but the Prometheus grease kit essentially comes with one container of grease (I believe it may be a Molybdenum grease, and is very very nice), and it also comes with a mixing container (with various compartments for making and storing different mixes) and two mixing compounds - one is a slightly viscous oil to lighten up the weight of the grease, and the second is a powder, which acts like the graphite I've been using. The powder/oil is then mixed in, ratios are dependent on the application. The powder compound is used in break-in runs of gears. It's applied to all of the teeth and moving parts of the gearbox. The gearbox is then closed up with no spring or piston and you'd hook up a motor and just run the setup for about an hour or so. Occasional breaks are taken to let the motor cool down (if it heats up - it shouldn't, as the load is minimal... btw, running the motor like this is also a great way to break a new one in), and also to reapply or adjust any grease that may have flung off the gear teeth. Once broken in, this grease is all wiped clean off all surfaces. At this point, you can actually run those gears as-is, with no more additional grease, but I usually add a very very thin layer on afterwards, just so it can pick up any left over residue. It's a LOT of work, but the results are usually quite good.

Last edited by ILLusion; May 18th, 2009 at 15:54..
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Old May 19th, 2009, 00:22   #34
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I'm curious to know the cost of a full build!
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Old May 19th, 2009, 00:26   #35
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I'm curious to know the cost of a full build!
That depends on how much you want done, as well as several other factors.

Generally, anywhere from $850 to $5500. $850 is for a basic slide/barrel build with minor internal upgrades.
Pick your details, materials, finishes, parts & components. A full on open division race pistols with crazy custom engravings, insane high end porting, real steel optics, gold oxidized parts, stainless steel components, custom frames, real steel components, etc will easily run a build well over $5000.

Will only sell to age verified users, unless you can provide government approved ID on the spot. You will also be judged on character before you can own something like this. I will not sell a piece like this to kids, thugs or idiots.

Last edited by ILLusion; May 19th, 2009 at 00:32..
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Old May 19th, 2009, 00:48   #36
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That depends on how much you want done, as well as several other factors.

Generally, anywhere from $850 to $5500. $850 is for a basic slide/barrel build with minor internal upgrades.
Pick your details, materials, finishes, parts & components. A full on open division race pistols with crazy custom engravings, insane high end porting, real steel optics, gold oxidized parts, stainless steel components, custom frames, real steel components, etc will easily run a build well over $5000.

Will only sell to age verified users, unless you can provide government approved ID on the spot. You will also be judged on character before you can own something like this. I will not sell a piece like this to kids, thugs or idiots.
haha I got confused when I came back to find the prices changed :P

The lower end of the spectrum was close to what I expected; the upper end, higher than my prediction. I guess it really depends on all the bells and whistles you put in.

Unfortunately I don't think I can fit one of your beautiful pieces into my budget right now but I will definately get one eventually! I'd also love to learn more about these builds and eventually be able to build my own. Seeing as we're in the same area, I'd love to meet up some day and learn a thing or two from you.
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Old May 19th, 2009, 00:56   #37
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ILLusion is one of my primary drug dealer....lol
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Old May 19th, 2009, 01:24   #38
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haha I got confused when I came back to find the prices changed :P
The more I edited it, the more accurate the numbers became.

I'm working on something at the moment that may even drop the price of the low end by almost another $100.
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Old May 19th, 2009, 01:25   #39
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Yes, of which I have none lately.. (finances that is). But soon... soon I shall.
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Old May 19th, 2009, 08:14   #40
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Wow I would buy it if it was $200

But im pretty sure it's 1000-1500

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Old May 19th, 2009, 17:31   #41
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Wow I would buy it if it was $200

But im pretty sure it's 1000-1500

It was actually listed for more.
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Old May 25th, 2009, 02:23   #42
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Race gun talk was starting to overtake and jack this thread, so I've moved all of that discussion over to my custom productions thread:

http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=69896


Sorry, age verified viewers only.

Last edited by ILLusion; May 25th, 2009 at 02:27..
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Old May 25th, 2009, 04:30   #43
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For those of you who were curious to see what this gun looks like in black, here is a slightly different build:



























This build is also using the "Dry lube" technique, which was just as effective. I think I'll be using that for all of my future GBB pistol builds for quite a while...
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Old May 25th, 2009, 04:37   #44
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Oh ! god, I can't continue to do my work now. I really start to hate you so much. It's really very nice gun.

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Old June 9th, 2009, 10:32   #45
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Molybendum disulphide is an excellent dry lubricant. Once impacted/"worn" into the surface of the metal, it has so-so durability/wear-resistance. In a carrier, it's a bit more effective.

I used to use it to "moly-coat" my centerfire rifle barrels (.308, 22-250 and 6mm REM). The bullets were tumbled with a teaspoon or two of MoS2. Then they were either tumbled in media (corn cob husk bits) or wax. The first stage would peen the media into the jacket surface...the second stage would remove excess and apply a protective coating. I usually skipped the wax coating....and would have "newspaper fingers" at the range.

When fired in a centerfire rifle...the MoS2 would be laid down on the inner surface of the barrel...and subsequent shots would lay down more. After a given amount there wouldn't be subsequent build up.

There existed a real division amongst shooters about using it. It did make cleaning the barrel of copper easier...but I noticed that several shots were needed after cleaning to "settle in" the barrel. (we're talking about sub 1/2-1/4MOA....300+yrds...so it's really picky stuff)

In the end...it's messy...and if cold bore accuracy is paramount, it's not for me...(granted, I'm no expert at it and may not have figured out all the ins-outs of it).

MoS2 in a grease (commonly available at automotive shops or gun shops) is fine for gears and bearing surfaces. Once worked in, very little visible remaining on the surface is needed. Anything that you can see is basically excess. MoS2 in oil is different. The oil will actually deter it from "bonding" to the metal...and will act as a carrier to float the MoS2 away. It's ok for penetrating hard to get at places.
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