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Old August 13th, 2005, 13:29   #31
CDN_Stalker
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Thanks Poncho, it'll be up & running by Rawdon. The switch is working just fine, as with the original the lever has to be bent in a certain way to get it to contact the set screw on the trigger as well as remain out of the way of the spur gear when it spins. Hopefully we can catalog all the issues with this gun and get the info to Classic Army in hopes they will take problems into account and fix the design. They *seem* to be pretty decent about improving on customer complaints and as such various new versions tend to be better than the previous type. This mechbox is thick as they come (thicker actually) and the design is sound, just needs fine adjustments in materials (such as the ultra thin anti-reversal latch spring) and design (to make it such that the hop up setting isn't seen as a "Low hop up, gun works fine. Enough hop up for .25g, the piston shreds") to overcome the problems. I don't understand the wide piston grooves either, hopefully they'll explain.

As far as the mechbox used in the Thompson, I doubt it, while I haven't opened an M1 yet, this mechbox is huge in comparison to the M1 Tommy's I've seen on the field. I think this is an 'M249 specific' design.
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Old August 13th, 2005, 20:15   #32
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Ok, I'm posting a reply to this instead of editting my previous post because I want this brought to people's attention and not fall by the wayside with a simple edit.

If you break your lever on your switch, buy the switch I outlined above. BUT, DO NOT USE IT!!!!! I went through two of them and after a few shots the contacts siezed (welded together) and saw on the package that they are rated for 15A@125VAC, and 1/4A@125VDC. Since we're dealing with DC, and we fuse for 15A+, having a rating of 1/4A really doesn't do crap.

So, since I am the first that has successfully done this, at least in Canada, chances are the entire world, here is what you do. Take a drill with a drill bit bigger than the end of the rivet holding the swtich assembly together. Drill it out, remove the rivet, then use a small screwdriver to pry the two halves apart, enough to remove the steel lever. The base of it is identical to the stock supplied one. Drill out the rivet on the supplied switch, separate it and swap the new lever for the broken on. you do NOT need to take the mechbox apart, just undo the two screws holding the switch in the mechbox and pull the switch out the bottom. Make sure you put the connectors in the same place you took them from, the battery wire goes to the top (Com) and the wire that goes to the motor goes to the NO (Normally Open) tab (if you accidentally put it on the NC, Normally Closed tab, the gun will fire until you pull the trigger, where it will stop til you release it.)

Reassemble, all should be good. Make sure you bend the lever so that the end of it is nowhere near the sector gear, else it'll grab and bend your lever, fucking your gun & fuse good.
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Old August 13th, 2005, 21:14   #33
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Thanks for the info Poncho and Stalker. I will let you know what append when the new piston comes in...
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Old August 13th, 2005, 21:31   #34
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No prob, that's what the word "community" really means.

Do this. When you have the mechbox open, install the piston (with white lithium grease on the rails) and with your fingers slide it back & forth, It should move nicely, without binding anywhere. The stock TM piston works well so far, but we'll have to keep up on this. Since I have a heavy trigger finger with an M249 as a teammate, guaranteed I'm gonna be the one with a good share of the info.

The design is beautiful, but it has wrinkles still that need working out. Any info found, fixed, etc. will benefit this thread and the rest of the owners out there. This is all referance, pure & simple. It's not about 'Dr. Airsofter' glory. All that I find, I post in as much detail as possible, especially since the Classic Army M249 is so new there is little info at all available as it if, let alone problems and fixes.
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Old August 13th, 2005, 21:32   #35
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btw the thompson mechbox is the same as the p90. It's a version 6 mechbox and is nothing like what I'm seeing here. I'll have one of those boxes in my hand later this week or next weekend and will be able to compare as I have a M1 on my workbench
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Old August 14th, 2005, 11:39   #36
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CA=Capitalist Army

why make a good quality product when they're making a killing on crap?
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Old August 14th, 2005, 14:42   #37
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Off topic Nuck. I RARELY agree with you on things, but that avatar is hilarious!!!!
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Old August 14th, 2005, 17:45   #38
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I was all set to get one of these but after this I think i'm gonna wait and see how CA handles this.
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Old August 14th, 2005, 19:27   #39
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Just buy one and replace the piston with a stock TM piston right away, and you'll be fine. Overall this is a most excellent gun, all metal with plastic grip, foregrip and stock. Can easily fit a 9.6V battery in there, break out the tabs and put a 10.8V in there. Super easy to work on, shoots real nice. Overall, just buy it and replace the piston is all this thread is about. I added the bit about replacing the switch, but it's only if you break it off, it's not a thing that'll happen with each gun, just the piston is.
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Old August 14th, 2005, 20:16   #40
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Got to use Apoc's CA M249 today. Worked flawlessly. A very heavy gun compared to my little M4. Was able to with stand alot of fire. Looks like all the problems on his gun have been worked out.
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Old August 14th, 2005, 21:51   #41
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Funny thing about Warmongers (referring to Shagg's comment), we tend to never bullshit anyone. Ok, bragging as much as the next airsoft guy sure, but bullshitting, never. Lol, dont' mind me, just on a bit of a tear.
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Old August 15th, 2005, 00:23   #42
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Hey Stalker - does this look familliar?

http://www.hammermods.com/ImpactM14.htm
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Old August 15th, 2005, 05:11   #43
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Here's a gathered list of problems as well as reviews and posts I've been reading about the CA249. If anything is wrong, please post corrections so I can fix it up!


Problems with Solutions
1. Piston Stripping after a short number of rounds
solution - don't turn hopup too high, change piston (CA's are known to be very brittle)

2. Micro switch faulty
solution - be aware when taking mechbox out

Quote:
Originally Posted by Quantis
The little metal leaf that hangs off the switch sits out over the mechbox gears that are exposed on the bottom. While handling the mechbox to test fire it I pushed the metal bit too far and it got caught on the gears bending the fuck out of it... Normally the trigger can't push the switch that far but when pushing it with your fingers be VERY CAREFUL and you shouldn't have any problems...
3. Gun tends to fire in full auto on it's own without trigger being pulled
solution - problem with mircro switch in general, be aware of this problem when in safezone

4. Box Mag plastic a bit weak (reports of cracking after game use)
solution - none at the moment, just be aware of this

5. 8.4V Large Batteries not fitting in stock
solution - plug the battery in first, shove the wiring in, then fuse then battery and it will fit

6. Bipod leg/s don't fold down properly
solution - none at the moment, not a problem on all ca249's (QC problem)


Review's for CA249's::
http://www.ukasc.net/content.php?review.81 or http://www.airsoftcommunity.co.uk/fo...howtopic=49850
http://www.airsoftextreme.com/ca249review.htm
http://www.lonestarairsoft.com/forum...ticle&artid=10
http://www.21stcenturyairsoft.com/forum/post-4088.html
http://www.airsoftretreat.com/forums...rchTerms=ca249


Other threads regarding CA249's::
http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forum...pic=24379&st=0
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Old August 15th, 2005, 10:03   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lt_poncho
Hey Stalker - does this look familliar?

http://www.hammermods.com/ImpactM14.htm
Only the gear positions look familiar. I see where you were coming from though.

God I love the M14!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by shinjit noir
3. Gun tends to fire in full auto on it's own without trigger being pulled
solution - I saw one earlier, but can't seem to find it now (will add when I find it)
That is a side effect of the switch as well. I've only found that with the replacement switches I put in, the gun would fire fine for a few bursts, then it would fire constantly and only removing the battery would stop it. Plug the battery back in, gun starts shooting. Since the DC rating is only 1/4A, the switch contacts weld together and don't release.

If this happens on occasion with the stock switch, I think i has something to do with the way the lever is postioned and/or the height of the set screw on the trigger (pull trigger, a sear moves up and it has a long set screw on it that is adjustable....... that set screw presses the lever activating the switch). If you lower the set screw, there would be less pressure on the lever, possibly fixing the problem.
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Old August 15th, 2005, 12:42   #45
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About the switch sticking problem and the gun firing off on its own. That is not exclusive to the CA m249. It can also be a problem with the TOP m249. Its due to the use of a microswitch period. The switch requires very little physical movement to activate. Any small debris can get in there and possibly cause it to activate.

Couple years ago with mine I had the very embarrassing incident of the M249 start shooting automatically in a safe zone. It stiched a guy up the leg from less then 10 feet away and he had very bad welts all over his leg. Trigger was safed and everything and it just started to go to town the moment I picked up off the tailgate of my truck.

Luckily nobody was shot in the eye or anything as it was a very dangerous situation having a machine gun shooting on its own accord in the safe area. Please be careful where the muzzle is pointed at all times. Even when the Gun is "Safed."
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