WE G18C loading nozzle

[Shrapnel[Op-For]]

Have you done this on your own G18 with any successful results?

I cut the piece down far enough that even with the spring fully compressed the plunger stays covered by the spring

[Afflicted]

Ohhhh that's what you meant by a plunger, I'm not sure what the correct term for it either but I heard a local gun doc call it a spring guide. Makes sense that being on the longer side, it would break the nub off during fast cycling especially when cold from full auto fire.

[jordan7831]

Originally Posted by e-luder

Yes.

Its the piece that sits behind the extractor. The piece that you put into the spring before you put the spring back inside. You need to mod the part where the pring attaches to. That end. sand it shorter.

It looks like a detent pin, Jordan. Like the ones found on the hi capa/1911 that locks the thumb saftey to prevent accidental activation

Thanks E.

Can you tell I got a WE G18c haha

[turok_t]

For all of you who want spare nozzles/plungers and nozzle return springs, PM me. For all those who have already PM'd me, check your inboxes tomorrow.

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by Shrapnel[Op-For]

Have you done this on your own G18 with any successful results?

Yes. My loading nozzles now only break due to the high internal pressure created during the cycle. Yay for good seals and high output blowoff valves. They literally explode!!! But that nub stays unbroken with this mod done....

[Shrapnel[Op-For]]

Originally Posted by e-luder

Yes. My loading nozzles now only break due to the high internal pressure created during the cycle. Yay for good seals and high output blowoff valves. They literally explode!!! But that nub stays unbroken with this mod done....

My only worry is that the spring has a higher chance on crimping with the guide rod so short. Someone online suggested replacing the metal rod with something lighter that won't slam into the nozzle nub.

So your nozzle still breaks regardless?

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by Shrapnel[Op-For]

My only worry is that the spring has a higher chance on crimping with the guide rod so short. Someone online suggested replacing the metal rod with something lighter that won't slam into the nozzle nub.

So your nozzle still breaks regardless?

Even if you go with "Something softer" it will still break. It all depends on how fast your slide can recoil and how stiff that nozzle return spring is. you have to keep in mind that the loading muzzle stays stationary until the spring kicks in. At which time, it actuates the nozzle to return. You can see the action when you charge your gun. Often times, you'll see the muzzle not move in the initial stages of the slide pull. Then as you pull it even further to the rear, the loading muzzle will snap backwards. This is because there is no longer any travel for the nub. That is, the nub has travelled far enough into the BBU rails that it no longer has anywhere else to go while the slide is still charging rearwards.

So if there isn't enough power to spring to resist the recoiling slide, the nub will slam against the the plunger. AND if the plunger is too long, the force of the recoiling slide will shear the nub right off...

Your worry of the spring crimping is valid. However, there are many BBUs that don't accomodate a plunger for that spring and they still stay relatively undamaged during operation. THe Glock 17 for example doesn't have a plunger. Nor do the hi-capa nozzles and they stay uncrimped for a long while (at least in my guns). But in general terms, most GBB pistols crimp that spring regardless of how much caution each operator exercises. It's common. This is why there aftermarket companies that carry replacement loading muzzle springs in their brand line up.

You have to cut it to the right length. As long as you don't cut it too short that the plunger's function becomes non-existent, you're ok. That is, don't cut it too close to the "base" or the fat part where the spring rests against...

All loading muzzles eventually break in any GBB pistol (or even GBBRs). This is just the nature of the loading muzzle. Sometimes they even break in areas that you think is the sturdiest. For example, the loading arm might break or the actual air output part of the muzzle where it is the thickest may crack or even the body of the loading can fall apart under heavy pressure.

On the Glock 18c, the nub is the most common area of breakage because of that plunger....

[Shrapnel[Op-For]]

So judging from my photograph, would you say the guide rod is cut short enough?

[e-luder]

Can't say for sure but I wouldn't cut it any shorter unless you break another loading muzzle. I can't really tell you a valid answer to that considering I don't have your gun in front of me. Plus, I need to know how strong the spring is and how your gun cycles to be able to make, at least, some sort of educated guess....

My Advice to you is to observe you how the muzzle is behaving everytime you charge your gun. If you see that the hop up unit is holding unto your loading muzzle a bit, shorten the plunger. If it doesn't then you won't need to since the slide will carry the loading muzzle at all times. But the latter is a clear indication that the spring is usually crimped and not functioning properly....

[Shrapnel[Op-For]]

Ok so a bit of an update. I installed a new loading nozzle (stock WE g18) and replaced the crimped return spring with a fresh one. It seems like with the cut down guide rod the gun is cycling properly without the spring becoming crimped. So far so good. I went to go test fire a few mags to see how the nozzle would hold up but now the gun won't even shoot properly. It is venting all the gas in my mags after one shot, doesn't matter if its one full auto or semi. I have three different magazines, all new no leaks and they all do the same thing. So now I can't even test the guns durability because it won't fire without spewing propane everywhere. Someone help?

[Towe1ey]

Did you put the floating valve back in? Without it inside the nozzle, there's nothing to seal off the gas after each shot.

[Shrapnel[Op-For]]

Originally Posted by Towe1ey

Did you put the floating valve back in? Without it inside the nozzle, there's nothing to seal off the gas after each shot.

Shit I completely forgot about the floating valve.. I assumed they came with the new nozzle. That's most likely it thanks a ton.

[Shrapnel[Op-For]]

So I put the floating valve in, but with a mag in the gun it begins to release the gas on the first shot, just now with the valve in it doesn't spew everywhere...

[AdamBenoit]

After breaking several myself, I added a TM G17 loading muzzle to an order and got a caliper and checked the differences. There is a 0.2mm difference to the internal diameter so the piston head did not fit. the only other difference is a nub, like the one breaking off. I filed it off and checked the fit without the piston head and it fit well.

I then ordered a full metal replacement set (for a TM g17) and after filing off the extra nub, tried to install it but the new, correct sized piston head but it was too thick and wouldn't allow the nozzle to go back completely.

I then took a razor blade and shaved off some of the rubber on the stock piston head until it moved with minimal friction.

I reassembled the pistol, lubing it up as i went along. I tested the mechanism by putting loading 3 50 round mags and racking the slide and it feeds perfectly. I then put a 25 round mag through it with no issue.

Ii ill be testing it this weekend and will let everyone know how it holds up.

The mod, btw, cost less than a new WE loading nozzle. $16 shipped from Hong Kong.

The filed off nub.


Loading nozzle end view.


Loading nozzle must fit smoothly.

[AdamBenoit]

So, it works, sort of.

It will fire a mag, maybe 2, then jam. I tear it down and find more rubbing. I file it down, and it fires a mag, then jams.

So it may work if I wanted to spend more time, but I don't. But it doesn't seem worth it at this time.

It seems we will have to wait for a 3rd party solution, hopefully in metal.