Hades Arrow Mortar

[Curo]

Also the metal fins (they might be plastic unknown) need to be addressed.

[Boche]

Cool, I want.

[drk242]

plastic fins comfermed flip down rivet type hinge

[shiftsup]

I wonder when they will make "airsoft" punji sticks. The perfect addition to a Vietnam milsim.

[Spawn28]

[QUOTE=drk242;1598527] i lost a tornado to a room full of dead.QUOTE]

By the sounds of it you didnt lose anything sounds to me like it was yoinked!
Id be pissed at 100$ a pop

Oh and this mortar thing..... meh could be cool but like Brian said it would have to be monitored and i think only selected personnel should use it. Not be a downer but firing these probably not cheap rockets at a empty building seems kinda kewl but would be waste of money as i can see theses things beings so light that they are safe but also very fragile if shot at or impacted concrete. Now firing them OUT OF a empty building well that just spells AWSOME!
As far as getting them back hell paint em floresent orange And hook a LED system inside for night attacks. If these things lit up like christmas trees (RED L.E.D's) i for one would let ya shoot em at me, now that would be intense 50-100 of these fuckers shooting through the air all lit up at night FFFfffffuuuuuuuck mee.

Later add a Parachute and LED-Flare attachment........hmmmmmmmmm starting to get ideas..........lots of ideas 8)... ive already said too much


Just my 2 pennies

Squeeeeeeeeeeeek!

[Summers1000]

Rather than having the mortar launch a projectile, why not have it use the same type of idea that grenade launchers have of shooting a spray of BB's out.

The only downside would be the power source, (paintball tanks perhaps) and getting the BB's to not spray out everywhere (long narrow barrel).

[LongStone]

Originally Posted by HackD

....
However, *this* looks fun, if somewhat massive overkill in terms of a project.. i could see it being adapted as a much more economical mortar tube setup - and it'd be great if those nerf projectiles could be modified with an internal striker-plate of some sort to accomodate cap-gun type paper percussion charges (are those even available anymore? - i might be dating myself as a child of the 60-70's here) for the 'explosive' realism.

Airsoft howitzer big bore breach load - YouTube

Airsoft Air Burst Artillery - YouTube[/QUOTE]

[Viperfish]

Originally Posted by LongStone

Airsoft Air Burst Artillery - YouTube

ill take 10!

[Schoolboy]

Originally Posted by Kingsix

one word helmets.

Totally Agreed. My brain bucket is real so i could care less if i got hit on the head, i've close lined myself before and fell flat on my back the helmet prevented me from blacking out.

[LongStone]

Originally Posted by Viperfish

ill take 10!

ROFL, still a work in progress! will update as it goes.
imo indirect fire should have at least 1.5X the range of a regular AEG (2-3X ideally)

This mechanism for the air cannon i'm upgrading to test this, I've probably run 20-30 HPA tanks through it (via reg. set to 100+/- PSI) with barely so much as a leak. (in paint ball) BUT I NEVER run it over 120-130 PSI (ABS is rated to 250 PSI afaik). usually I ran it no higher than 100 PSI. pressure chamber has a hot water relief valve on it (rated for 150 but starts to leak around 105-110)

I was getting 300++ feet of range with "shells" from the old one (1/2:2 or 1:4 == valve:barrel diameter ratio)
at 1:3 the shell will probably be out of the barrel before the valve is completely open, lots of punch so long as I can keep the whole system pressurized to at least 75-80 PSI when shell is about to exit the barrel. if I have issues I'll actually do the volume calculations.
its just a question if a: the 1/2 tube will feed enough pressure/quick enough to the barrel (pass 3/4 and straight to 1" if that's the case) b: if the 3" x 2 foot pressure chamber is enough volume to drive a 3" barrel (next step 4" pressure chamber or longer, now 3" X 2 feet) I'll probably draw up the frame next, it would be nice to swap from "field gun" style to vehicular mounted (ATV front rack etc)

I've thought about making the pressure chamber "volume adjustable" too, so I can "tune" it for max air efficiency. I would only get about 10 shots from a 3000 PSI standard size HPA tank with the smaller 2" barrel.
I'm getting a compressor from a friend this weekend and hoping it has 12V so I can build it in with a car battery :-)

once I'm happy with the range of the cannon again I'll get back to the nuances of the shell, I need a better pressure collar system to keep the 2 halves together, the chute may need to be larger/lighter material (or "pop out" like one of those kids forts that use the plastic coils to spring open, that's a whole re-design of the shell), "nade to shell" friction will have to be tuned...and probably the biggest PITA...tuning the fins on the back to get decent spin/stabilization with out too much drag

[Conker]

Originally Posted by Spawn28

And hook a LED system inside for night attacks. If these things lit up like christmas trees (RED L.E.D's)

LEDs = electrical = will fail sooner than later.

Maybe chemlights? Crack, shake, cut open, paint liquid on the round, wait 5 mins to dry, and should light for a couple hours. Definitely not as long as the whole thing would, but should be long enough.

Just an idea.

[Curo]

Originally Posted by Schoolboy

Totally Agreed. My brain bucket is real so i could care less if i got hit on the head, i've close lined myself before and fell flat on my back the helmet prevented me from blacking out.

I'm in the same boat owning a real Ops Core and A real Canadian Army helmet, but sadly some players dont own real or replica.

[Viperfish]

Originally Posted by LongStone

ROFL, still a work in progress! will update as it goes.
imo indirect fire should have at least 1.5X the range of a regular AEG (2-3X ideally)

This mechanism for the air cannon i'm upgrading to test this, I've probably run 20-30 HPA tanks through it (via reg. set to 100+/- PSI) with barely so much as a leak. (in paint ball) BUT I NEVER run it over 120-130 PSI (ABS is rated to 250 PSI afaik). usually I ran it no higher than 100 PSI. pressure chamber has a hot water relief valve on it (rated for 150 but starts to leak around 105-110)

I was getting 300++ feet of range with "shells" from the old one (1/2:2 or 1:4 == valve:barrel diameter ratio)
at 1:3 the shell will probably be out of the barrel before the valve is completely open, lots of punch so long as I can keep the whole system pressurized to at least 75-80 PSI when shell is about to exit the barrel. if I have issues I'll actually do the volume calculations.
its just a question if a: the 1/2 tube will feed enough pressure/quick enough to the barrel (pass 3/4 and straight to 1" if that's the case) b: if the 3" x 2 foot pressure chamber is enough volume to drive a 3" barrel (next step 4" pressure chamber or longer, now 3" X 2 feet) I'll probably draw up the frame next, it would be nice to swap from "field gun" style to vehicular mounted (ATV front rack etc)

I've thought about making the pressure chamber "volume adjustable" too, so I can "tune" it for max air efficiency. I would only get about 10 shots from a 3000 PSI standard size HPA tank with the smaller 2" barrel.
I'm getting a compressor from a friend this weekend and hoping it has 12V so I can build it in with a car battery :-)

once I'm happy with the range of the cannon again I'll get back to the nuances of the shell, I need a better pressure collar system to keep the 2 halves together, the chute may need to be larger/lighter material (or "pop out" like one of those kids forts that use the plastic coils to spring open, that's a whole re-design of the shell), "nade to shell" friction will have to be tuned...and probably the biggest PITA...tuning the fins on the back to get decent spin/stabilization with out too much drag

let me know how it turns out, id love to have somthing like that, my own feild gun with shells? hell ya that would be sweet!

as long as i have a spotter to see where shells land.

oh and for your airburst shells did you consider making the chute in like a neon color so its easy to find later?

[Curo]

I still like Conkors idea of chemlight paint.

[Dynamo]

Originally Posted by Conker

LEDs = electrical = will fail sooner than later.

Maybe chemlights? Crack, shake, cut open, paint liquid on the round, wait 5 mins to dry, and should light for a couple hours. Definitely not as long as the whole thing would, but should be long enough.

Just an idea.

not that great of an idea, that stuff is oily as shit. yes, you could paint it with the chem light, but it wont dry, it will become a sticky mess... had that stuff get on my hands before.. had to wash with soap like 3 times, and could still smell the crap the next day.