MOSFET UNIT Questions

[Dynamo]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

I'm not even sure if Eagle Force airsoft motors are still in production...

Their specialty was in the RC market.

their site is still up and has the motor listed.

[ILLusion]

I haven't seen one in stock at any retailer's in a while.

I read a review not too long ago, that ran a bunch of motors on a custom made dynamometer, and had the Eagle Force EF1300 ranked at 2nd place overall. The only motor that beat it, is the new Tokyo Marui EG30000 High Cycle motor.

Top RPM (higher is better): TM EG-3000HC (High Cycle) @ 32800rpm

Lowest Power Draw (lower is better): Eagle Force EF1300 @ 1.55 Amps

CONS (Motor Efficiency. Lower is better): Chaoli "Mirco" Motor @ 2. 2nd place: TM EG-3000HC (High Cycle) @ 3.5

Read more here: http://www.airsoft-barracks.com/foru...rce-md01-dyno/

The top of the line G&P M170 "Devil Jet" that everyone had raved out were either DoA for the test, or performed the WORST in terms of efficiency and power draw.

Systema motors weren't part of that test, but it is well documented all over the rest of the web how poorly efficient they are, and how much power they draw.

[ThunderCactus]

I never trusted the M170, I figured they tried to produce a motor beyond their means. My assumption got proven every time someone tried to test one lol
A few people raved about it, but I always said the M160 was the top of the G&P line.
But G&P is G&P, and just like their guns, the motors are solid, but in need of fine tuning.
Once you tune up an M140 or M160, they're pretty damn good motors.

I'd REALLY like to see someone test a systema energy motor. If it's a just magnum with a polycarb end bell, it ought to perform pretty well.
Oh and I bought my EF1300 off that guy LOL

[L473ncy]

Originally Posted by Gunny_McSmith

I wonder why we dont use brushless RC motors in airsoft...

Where do you put your ESC controller?

As well there are some performance considerations too. I don't remember exactly but I believe it was something about when it hits max torque and spinup time and stuff like that. In short, brushed DC motors are probably the best you're going to get in airsoft unless you can radically redesign the speed controllers to be smaller and fit inside a pistol grip.

It's a cool idea but won't happen for at least 10 years for science/technology to catch up, if ever due to design and performance constraints (arguably Brushless motors are more efficient, provide more torque, speed, and all that but what about other considerations).

[ThunderCactus]

Think outside the M4 box lol
You could potentially use them in CA249s, P90s, AUGs, guns with large bodies and room of an ESC

[Gunny_McSmith]

Originally Posted by ThunderCactus

Think outside the M4 box lol
You could potentially use them in CA249s, P90s, AUGs, guns with large bodies and room of an ESC

Exactly! In a SAW (or any other bb hose) it could be really useful!

[L473ncy]

Originally Posted by ThunderCactus

Think outside the M4 box lol
You could potentially use them in CA249s, P90s, AUGs, guns with large bodies and room of an ESC

... Right. I guess you could even run it back into a cranestock if you're willing to run that kind of length of wire. I guess the only problem then becomes what length of wire is too much and how will it affect performance. I'm pretty sure you also want the shortest length possible from ESC to BLDC motor otherwise you're introducing natural resistance and there's a potential for voltage "rippling" (not sure the correct term, I took this from computer terminology but same idea) which can destroy ESC's.

[ThunderCactus]

The great upside to the open body guns, is you can use 12 gauge wire lol
Wire the whole thing with 12 gauge and twist the wires wherever possible, makes everything much more stable
It would be a neat project, but not a real alternative to regular DC motors.

[MaciekA]

Hey guys.

Took two AWS Raptors out in the cold last weekend (game in Kitchener on the 29th). Two more or less identical G&P gearboxes for each one. One worked fine. The other unfortunately had the little trigger microswitch box sever 3 of the 4 solder joints and stopped firing. I'm guessing it was the cold.

I just resoldered it using my extremely terrible soldering skills (easily the smallest thing I've ever soldered) and it works again. Whew.

These things are pretty delicate and even if you have an on-spec gearbox there are some risks of bad things happening.

[Dynamo]

Originally Posted by MaciekA

Hey guys.

Took two AWS Raptors out in the cold last weekend (game in Kitchener on the 29th). Two more or less identical G&P gearboxes for each one. One worked fine. The other unfortunately had the little trigger microswitch box sever 3 of the 4 solder joints and stopped firing. I'm guessing it was the cold.

I just resoldered it using my extremely terrible soldering skills (easily the smallest thing I've ever soldered) and it works again. Whew.

These things are pretty delicate and even if you have an on-spec gearbox there are some risks of bad things happening.

you have to make sure that the trigger travel doesn't let the trigger contact the switch body. remember that the switch is soldered onto a sheet of metal that is the equivalent of tin foil. even with the lacquer coating, it's very fragile.

[Mandalore]

I'm highly considering getting a Raptor, but I'm getting a bit worried about fitment issues. I would put it in my (VFC OEM) 416 as I know my way around that mechbox well. If the trigger hammer makes contact with the switch body on the fet unit how would you go about modding the trigger to reduce that?

[MaciekA]

Originally Posted by Mandalore

I'm highly considering getting a Raptor, but I'm getting a bit worried about fitment issues. I would put it in my (VFC OEM) 416 as I know my way around that mechbox well. If the trigger hammer makes contact with the switch body on the fet unit how would you go about modding the trigger to reduce that?

When you test fitment, it will be obvious where to either remove material or add material (with epoxy). If you're super concerned about this and not lazy like me, you can definitely work around this with a file/dremel and/or epoxy. Go for it, it's a ridiculously awesome product.

[Mandalore]

Lol I think you just sold me on it.

[SuperHog]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

I haven't seen one in stock at any retailer's in a while.

I read a review not too long ago, that ran a bunch of motors on a custom made dynamometer, and had the Eagle Force EF1300 ranked at 2nd place overall. The only motor that beat it, is the new Tokyo Marui EG30000 High Cycle motor.

Top RPM (higher is better): TM EG-3000HC (High Cycle) @ 32800rpm

Lowest Power Draw (lower is better): Eagle Force EF1300 @ 1.55 Amps

CONS (Motor Efficiency. Lower is better): Chaoli "Mirco" Motor @ 2. 2nd place: TM EG-3000HC (High Cycle) @ 3.5

Read more here: http://www.airsoft-barracks.com/foru...rce-md01-dyno/

The top of the line G&P M170 "Devil Jet" that everyone had raved out were either DoA for the test, or performed the WORST in terms of efficiency and power draw.

Systema motors weren't part of that test, but it is well documented all over the rest of the web how poorly efficient they are, and how much power they draw.

Is that motor dyno meant for a rc car? RC car dynos don't cycle the motor in burst like pulling a trigger, it ramps up the rpm. With ramp up, many motors won't fire the gun.
What exactly is it doing to the motor during testing?

[Gunny_McSmith]

Originally Posted by Mandalore

Lol I think you just sold me on it.

I'm getting mine probs next week, ant its going into a VFC scar-h mechbox...

From what I've heard... they ar eno fitment issues with VFC shells! but i could confirm that as soon as i install mine!