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April 29th, 2010, 14:07 | #331 |
those ARC mags look niiiiice! way easier than modding a pmag.
while we are on the subject of mags, iv been messing with mine trying to get rid of leaks. lithium grease is working great for me, got 2 mags up and running yesterday that would not hold gas before, but i noticed something. it seems like the ability of a mag to hold gas is closely related to the match between the mag body and the back plate. i would grease up the seal, install the backplate and get everything locked down- and the mag would leak, usually at the top or bottom. re-try with a different back plate, same seal and body, and get a perfect seal- no leaks at all. i should also note that all my mags have over-fill type valves on them, so no leaks is pretty impressive i think. to figure out if the back plate is a good match for a shell, put it on the back with no rubber seal in between. the top and bottom edges should sit really flush with the mag body, like right in there. most of the big leaks on my mags were coming from the top and/or bottom of the back plate so i think this is a key area for leakage. as a side note, has anyone tried re-threading the female threads in the magazine? im talking about the ones that hold the back plate on. i stripped one while tightening the back plate screws damn zinc i recently received a replacement part #59 (knocker cover) from renegadecow on arnies. it is a home made knocker cover made from steel. its really nice and dropped in perfectly. it doesnt have the sharp internal corners that the stock part has (just a hole for the knocker nub to poke through) so i dont see it breaking any time soon. if anyone needs a new #59 i would highly recommend this part. only cost $15 shipped from the Philippines. i can post up pics if anyone is curious. one last thing- ordering from airsoft buddy. has anyone done this recently? did you get your stuff in a decent amount of time? im always nervous when ordering from over-seas. |
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April 29th, 2010, 14:11 | #332 | |
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April 29th, 2010, 14:14 | #333 |
Tys
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Mags:
- lith grease, silicone grease, Superlube have all worked for me - I do notice that if I evenly tighten down the top and bottom screws first (taking turns between them until they're good and snug) and then tighten the middle two just until they are firm...then give it a little quick half second of gas...then tighten the two middle ones until I can't hear any hissing....that works for me. I find that if I "over" tighten the middle ones it makes either the top or the bottom leak. - I has a screw hole strip on a mag...it's junk now. I tried rethreading but you need quite a bite for the bigger screw and the material (once messed up) just isn't there. Ordering: A buddy of mine just did an order. Easy, fast, no-issue |
April 29th, 2010, 14:32 | #334 | |
A-56 aka Mr.Hitman
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April 30th, 2010, 17:45 | #335 |
Alright, I've hit an odd problem. Gun was firing fine, then I had Tys install his new adjustable nozzle system, now my gun will not fire a bb. The System fires, and the bolt returns, and a new BB is loaded into the barrel, but it appears that there is no gas fired down the barrel, or at least not enough to fire a BB.
So if I fire 5 rounds. Then tip the gun forward and give the barrel a tap, 4 BB's fall out the front, and one is in the chamber. Any ideas? |
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April 30th, 2010, 17:52 | #336 |
Tys
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Right at that "pack another BB into the chamber point"....gently-ish (so as not to bump/disturb things) pull the bolt.
Is the float valve stuck forward in the nozzle? Flicking it with something pokey...does it get it moving springy-ish again? Check the oring around the float valve for nics/deformation...check the inside of the nozzle for chopped BB's. The valve should spring back and forth...back = gas released down barrel pushing BBs...forward = trap gas, start recoil/load cycle. The valve should start back...flick forward and spring back without sticking. Maybe I got some loctite residue on the o-ring when we last assembled it....take a close look. **EDIT** OR...remember how we were trying to set the velocities so low the other night and I said, any lower and it might not cycle properly....try moving the whole assembly up...so the valve starts a bit further back (i.e. more power). About 1mm. This may be due to temp variations. Last edited by m102404; April 30th, 2010 at 17:54.. |
April 30th, 2010, 18:09 | #337 | |
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I was using a new mag (which I had filled with Propane)... I used my Original mag, and the gun fired no troubles... New mags get shipped with duster... and adding propane obviously was causing a problem... Dumped the gas from the new mag, (completely) and then refilled with propane... now no more problems. Good to have the above information on hand for future reference. |
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April 30th, 2010, 19:23 | #338 |
Tys
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BWAHAHAHA....
Clueless's gun was shipped with Sailor Moon Green Gas in the mag...but we rectified that right away and pretty soon it smelled like Coleman's. |
April 30th, 2010, 23:14 | #339 |
Just wondering...how come it's like 40$ for a metal lower receiver with trades?
http://www.airsoftglobal.com/product...oducts_id=8479 |
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April 30th, 2010, 23:44 | #340 | |
Tys
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what does your question have to do with any technical aspect of these rifles? |
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April 30th, 2010, 23:46 | #341 |
May 7th, 2010, 04:47 | #342 |
A-56 aka Mr.Hitman
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Here is expolded diagram of parts numbers and all for all WE rifles.
http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_to...d=9&didpath=/9 |
May 7th, 2010, 14:17 | #343 |
Tys
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Thanks Hitman...can't believe I didn't post those earlier.
Q. You have one of the newest half-clear WE M4's right? Is the flash hider CW or CCW? Mine is CCW...but I think (can't remember) the newer ones are CW. Could you confirm? Tys |
May 7th, 2010, 14:29 | #344 |
Mine is CW for CQBR but the full length is CCW....
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May 7th, 2010, 14:31 | #345 |
Tys
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Cool...thank you,
Tys |
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