lipo alarm keeps beeping..what does this mean?

[HKGhost]

Originally Posted by fi3re

whoops...i guess I should have mentioned that....but the contacts were working fine just too short....so would resistance in the contacts really make the battery push more amps? afaik I thought the motor only takes the amps it needs...so whats the verdict here, motor issues, battery issue or trigger contact issue? or if I got a trigger master that would solve all electrical problems wouldnt it....

btw does anyone know if the mp5k is "front" or "rear" wired?
might pick this up
http://www.airsoftparts.ca/store2/in...oducts_id=1566

Yes, a broke or carbon build up on the contacts will cause more resistance. The motor will only take what it needs but if there is a huge resistance in the line, the battery will have to put out more amps to pass it and get to the motor. I thought you needed a V2. Never mind. Get a new switch assembly and a mosfet, that will prevent this from happening again.

[fi3re]

ah ok, thanks for the help. I guess I'm going to get those two things.
Are there any small mosfet units for V3 MB? I'm going to have a really tough time fitting a trigger master into the tiny mp5k

[HKGhost]

There is a basic mosfet that DonP sells. I don't know if he has them in stock at the moment. Mosfet are compatible a cross all aegs. You just need to know how to wire them, but they do come with instruction.

[fi3re]

I meant specifically for the V3 ie the stealth mosfets everyones been talking about that fits directly into the mechbox bypassing any mechanical connections. (they say V3 is coming out but I cant find it...)
http://www.awsairsoft.com/
again I dont think I can fit a typical mosfet into my mp5k...

[HKGhost]

why are you looking for V3 parts when your gearbox is a V2?

Edit: just disregard what I said. It's a V2.5

[THe_Silencer]

http://www.awsairsoft.com/microfet this should be small enough to fit. Nothing fancy but i'll fit at least.

[fi3re]

Originally Posted by HKGhost

why are you looking for V3 parts when your gearbox is a V2?

Edit: just disregard what I said. It's a V2.5

v2? v2.5? Mp5k mechboxes are always v3....Its how the battery can fit on top. :P

I'm probably gonna wait until they release the stealth V3 version.seems like the most effective way to fit it in. Hope its soon!

thanks for the help guys

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by HKGhost

why are you looking for V3 parts when your gearbox is a V2?

Edit: just disregard what I said. It's a V2.5

Uhh... No. MP5K is a full out v3

[HKGhost]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

Uhh... No. MP5K is a full out v3

Thanks for clarifying that. I remember when MP5s were V2 then I see this one without the motor cage. I read on another thread that it's called "V2.5".

[Ghostnote]

Originally Posted by fi3re

Is the battery getting hot?

The lights would be pretty random. Sometimes one of three lights would blink off, sometimes all three, sometimes all three would go red for a second.

http://www.airsoftparts.ca/store2/in...oducts_id=1262
this battery fits perfectly.

The battery does not change temperature. When mine beeps, 2 red lights come on (im using 7.4v so 2cell). This is the same on 2 different alarms I purchased. Im only pulling a m100 spring and it happens with stock kwa motor, g&p m120, and guarder high speed. Replaced switch assembly with a new one and the alarm is still beeping.

Has anyone seen a review for the aws stealth mosfet? The simple mosfet seems ideal for me since I use semi 95% of the time. I would get the ascu but space is tight in my buffer tube.

[m102404]

You need to rewire and replace the switch unit in your mechbox. MP5K's are V3...MP5's are V2.

I'd be on the fence with a mosfet in a MP5K...just because there's hardly any room in that gun to stuff one in. You could take a look at Don's simple mosfet or Terry's smallest mosfet...some are so small they can be attached to the side of the mechbox. Weigh in the PITA factor that it'll be to run the wiring for your MOSFET in that gun vs. the 'simplicity' but expense of swapping in a new wiring harness once a season. I'd be very tempted to forego the MOSFET as I'd probably cycle through a number of guns and it'd be good for more than a while.

The LiPo alarm is a "dumb" sensor...if the voltage drops below a threshold (3v-ish)...it'll beed/light/etc... That's all it's supposed to do. First...make sure your cells are getting fully charged. When freshly topped up they should be 4.2v each (you can either get a plug in dohicky that'll display the voltage of each cell...or use a multimeter). If it's not doing that...take a look at your charger.

If you're driving a freshly charged 11.1v pack (12.6v) down to 9-ish V right off the bat...then something is seriously wrong and you should proceed with extreme caution. If you're doing that I'd be surprised if your battery wasn't SCARY hot.

If things are in balance...the battery pack should barely change temperature at all. It might not be "cool" to the touch as when it's just sitting around...but it shouldn't be how. Warm at the most.

Tys

[Azathoth]

Problem Number 1 using a component designated from a airsoft manufacturer. Go to a RC Hobby store and get a proper LiPO detection board at 1/10 the price of what "airsoft" lipo alarms cost.

As Tys said, you need to make sure you are balance charging your pack, A good charger will tell you what the voltage of all your cells are during the charge cycle. For about 4 dollars you can get a little digital Lipo voltage reader from a Hobby store that will read the Voltage on the cells in your pack. They plug into the balancing board of your lipo back. If any of the cells shows <3v after your 5-10 cycles, then the pack is garbage and should be properly disposed off.

I am also going to assume that you bought a LiPo pack that was designated "for airsoft" or made by a airsoft company or a china cloner. All of those packs are without exception utter garbage. Hot Power packs means "OMG OW IT"S ON FIRE IN MY BUFFER TUBE AND FACE" <Yes I had a 11.1 Hot power pack catch fire in my buffer tube.

[ILLusion]

There are also 2-in-1 detection/tester circuits available as well, like the one I sell. It has both voltage readout of individual cells, overall pack status, and will flash super bright red LED's and a loud piezo alarm if the voltage drops low. Only $10 for a 2-in-1 device.

Anyways, that's a digression from the original topic discussion. Weak trigger contacts is a cause for high current drain... upgrading to a MOSFET will help with this problem, but if you don't have space for a MOSFET, then you should be trying to fix the wiring / trigger contacts. Actually, you should fix it anyways, just to get a solid connection going.

Built up carbon, holes burned in to the contact plates (from high current arcing), bent contacts or loose contacts can all lead to high resistance and increased load wear across the entire circuit. Once it starts becoming inefficient like this, the battery will suffer.

If you've been running your circuit with a weak connection like this for a long time, it's possible you could have heat damaged the wiring or even burned out the motor. A weak connection at the trigger contacts could create huge arcing within the motor coils which can burn it out over time, but it's more likely to have damage directly at the contact plates, the wiring, and at the battery pack itself.

And finally, like it's already been said a few times here, MAKE SURE your lipo charger also balances the cells in the pack!

[THe_Silencer]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

Uhh... No. MP5K is a full out v3

I wouldn't call it full out, Mp5ks don't have motor cages.

[fi3re]

thanks for the very informative responses.

My lipo charger is this one
http://www.airsoftparts.ca/store2/in...oducts_id=1926
it does balance while charging and stops when fully charged. I watch it while charging, I dont leave it alone.

Right now I'm gonna wait for the stealth v3 mosfet to fully change out my trigger contacts. Does anyone have an accurate ETA on those?

While I wait I'm going to look for just the contact plates, does anyone know where to find those?

edit: also, is a G&P m120 motor supposed to be able to pull a systema M120 spring with even an 8.4v battery? I'm wondering If I need to get a new motor.